I'm on vacation, and wrench + CEL just came on...

[quangdog]

So I drove out to the Oregon coast today to start a week-long vacation with my family. Between Portland and the coast (Cannon Beach) there is quite a climb to get up and over a small mountain range. On the climb up, the wrench icon popped up on my dash, with the "Check Manual" message. Of course, I didn't bring any tools or my code scanner with me, and I'm hundreds of miles from home. Yay.

I pulled over and shut off the truck. Checked for any dripping coolant/oil or other obvious issues, and found nothing... the engine sounds normal, but has no boost (limp mode). After starting up the truck again the check engine light came on, and the gear wrench remained. I was not in a safe place to stay parked (anyone who knows this little drive knows what I mean about these roads, they are narrow, cutting through a dense forest, with almost no shoulder. I elected to continue on to the coast. We arrived in cannon beach a few minutes ago. After getting checked into our hotel (took maybe 10 minutes) the gear wrench icon has disappeared, but the check engine light is still on. However, it does seem to drive normally (boost is back, normal power levels, etc)

So, 2 questions for the forum members:

1) Do you think it's ok to drive to the closest dealer (at least 30 minutes either north or south along the coast).
2) Does anyone on this forum happen to live super close (in or around Cannon Beach) and has a code reader that would let me try to at least get the code scanned before trying to drive it to a dealer?

This has the potential to completely ruin a long-anticipated and much needed family vacation.

Thanks!

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[ranger-rick-roll]

I would just drive it up and drop it off at the dealer if I were you. Rent a car for a few days if you have to so you can still enjoy your vacation, don't let a little problem ruin your hard earned time off!

 

[VegasRanger]

Can’t you log into FordPass and see what it tells you?

 

[quangdog]

Can’t you log into FordPass and see what it tells you?

I had the same thought while grabbing a late dinner just now. Here is what FordPass says:

 

[DT444T]

I had a similar problem in Wyoming towing. The code sort of implied that the boost pressure took too long to build. Luckily I have a tuner that can scan and read codes. I pulled to a stop and reset the code and went on my way.

Were you using cruise control? Just wondering. Mine has done this several times and ONLY with cruise control on.

And yes you are perfectly fine to drive it to the dealership. It is a limp mode, it'll get you to a dealer. They will probably just clear the code and tell you to bring it back if it does it again. You might also be able to get it to a parts store (Autozone, Advance, etc) and have them do it. Some wont clear codes anymore..."liability."

Your code saying "lower boost than expected" could be something as small as 0.5psi in a tiny time frame. It seems to me that these trucks have a BIT of a hair trigger when it comes to completely killing the live-giving boost.

 

[quangdog]

I had a similar problem in Wyoming towing. The code sort of implied that the boost pressure took too long to build. Luckily I have a tuner that can scan and read codes. I pulled to a stop and reset the code and went on my way.

Were you using cruise control? Just wondering. Mine has done this several times and ONLY with cruise control on.

Sounds a lot like what happened to me today. Yes, cruise was on. I was not towing anything, but we were doing some pretty steep climbing on twisty roads. Cruise was set to 60, iirc, regular drive mode.

An auto parts store is quite a bit closer to me (and on the way to our next stop) than a dealer, so I’m going to get the code scanned tomorrow and see if I can get them to turn around real quick while I clear codes.

The truck is back out of limp mode now, but CEL is still lit.

 

[Glocker]

I wonder if a battery disconnect would clear it and get you back to 100% ? Downside would be clearing the code if you still wanted a dealer to scan it.

 

[Trigganometry]

Thing is if you elect to clear the codes and something does happen the dealer scanning it has no idea what it was and what the problem is. When under warranty it’s always better to have a dealer check it out. This does 2 things. First and most important is they log your issue with VIN. That way if it happens again there is a record of an ongoing issue. Any dealer can see this. The other is being under warranty and not voiding it by doing your own repairs or continue to drive it knowing there is a potential problem.

Personally I would get it to a dealer so they can ascertain the issue and ether reset or fix. The record is just as important as a repair!

 

[Megawatt]

On a wrangler you can see the code on the display odometer after doing some key turns on the ignition. Anyone know if the ranger will allow the owner to see the code number after doing some pedal or key manipulation?

 

[DT444T]

Thing is if you elect to clear the codes and something does happen the dealer scanning it has no idea what it was and what the problem is. When under warranty it’s always better to have a dealer check it out. This does 2 things. First and most important is they log your issue with VIN. That way if it happens again there is a record of an ongoing issue. Any dealer can see this. The other is being under warranty and not voiding it by doing your own repairs or continue to drive it knowing there is a potential problem.

Personally I would get it to a dealer so they can ascertain the issue and ether reset or fix. The record is just as important as a repair!

Just get the code from the Parts Store guy.

 

[rang19ca]

As stated, do not disconnect the battery or the code will be lost.

 

[quangdog]

Stopped by an O’Reillys today, borrowed their scanner. Read the code (pictured) and then reset it. Has not come back yet. Truck is running perfectly. If it acts up again, off to the dealer it goes.

 

[Ranger54]

Stopped by an O’Reillys today, borrowed their scanner. Read the code (pictured) and then reset it. Has not come back yet. Truck is running perfectly. If it acts up again, off to the dealer it goes.

I love that little scan tool. Had mine a few years now and is a life saver. I think i paid like $30 for it at Oriellys. Even after you clear codes, some stay in the vehicle as history code. So all may not be lost by clearing them. I’d still take it to dealer. You check your air filter lately? Check the basics… caught a blue jay in my old trucks grill. Thought it had just fell out of grill after I hit it. Nope. Was in my intake tube. Just wondering… I know sounds silly. ??‍

 

[DT444T]

Stopped by an O’Reillys today, borrowed their scanner. Read the code (pictured) and then reset it. Has not come back yet. Truck is running perfectly. If it acts up again, off to the dealer it goes.

Are you tuned?

What Octane are you on?

Do you have an intake or intercooler upgrade?

 

[BlackRanger01]

I love that little scan tool. Had mine a few years now and is a life saver. I think i paid like $30 for it at Oriellys. Even after you clear codes, some stay in the vehicle as history code. So all may not be lost by clearing them. I’d still take it to dealer. You check your air filter lately? Check the basics… caught a blue jay in my old trucks grill. Thought it had just fell out of grill after I hit it. Nope. Was in my intake tube. Just wondering… I know sounds silly. ??‍

I got a $15 scan tool i bought years ago and been using it on several vehicles. I keep it in my primary vehicle in the passenger seat back pocket which is my Ranger now.

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