Ham/GMRS Mobile Radio Installation Location

WhiteLightning19

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Hello Community,

I'm trying to find some ideas on where to mount a new GMRS radio in my '19 Lariat. I was running a small 15W mobile that was tucked nicely between the 12v outlets and fit real nice. Fast forward to a new 50W mobile radio with a removable head and now having issues finding a good place to mount the head that isn't in the way or is easily accessible. I have thought about putting it in the tray on the dash but concerned about heat/theft.

So community I ask you to show pictures of your radios mounted!

Original Radio/Location:
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New Radio head:
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TN Ranger

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JRRangerAZ

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The Yaesu FT8900R has a detachable faceplate that houses all the manual controls and the mic input. I didn’t want to mount the entire unit on top of the dash to keep it in the line-of-sight, so I’ll take advantage of the detachable feature. When I find the correct mount-stalk for the faceplate (right now looking at the Lido LM-300-1001), I'll post a Part 2. This Lido unit is 22” tall and attaches to a seat-bolt. I contacted Lido management regards anticipated issues with this unit in a Ranger. Right now they’re out of the crow-foot attachment point, but once in stock, they’re going to do some test fittings using pictures I sent them (see below). I may need to take a Dremel to that plastic seat-mount housing to make necessary clearances.

The radio power is home-run to the battery. Using a 5/16th drill, I drilled a hole in the driver-side, firewall wiring grommet, staying as far away from the wiring bundle as possible. From inside the cab, I placed it at about the 4 o’clock position (see pics). I used a straightened-out, wire hanger to fish the leads through the hole then, on the engine-side, used a long, thin screwdriver and mechanical fingers to route the leads around the anti-lock brake plumbing and then along the fender seam. I attached the negative lead to the battery clamp nut. I attached the positive lead to an unused post on the positive bus bar. Inside the cab, I ran the wires through a flexible, plastic sheath and routed the wires under the carpet. There’s one, threaded, plastic fastener that holds the carpet down. The rest is just routing wires to the console and tucking them under for a clean appearance.

Since I didn’t want a mount that was top-of-dash (blazing Arizona sun), or under-seat (clearance, air flow, moving parts, and unshielded, electric motor interference), I decided the best place was on the side of the console. That makes for easy access, easy cable routing and avoids obstructions to air-flow for cooling. The lower-third of the console is free from reinforcing webbing and flexible enough to be pulled away from the tunnel to access fasteners. I used the lower two rows of holes on the bracket to avoid the webbing.

Since the speaker is on the radio’s main body, which is now facing the console and down at foot level, I bought a Yaesu extension speaker. The speaker mounting bracket is “velcroed” to the dash then hidden under the dash-cover. I placed it as close to the “A”-pillar as possible. The cable runs between the door and the dash with Velcro to keep it in place. The cable is joined into the flex-sheath with the power wiring for the final run to the radio.

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JRRangerAZ

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To keep HAM/GMRS radios and other, non-permanent, electrically-powered gear protected I mounted a Rigrunner fuse block under the driver’s seat. I fabricated a small tray to mount the fuse block and used the seat-rail cover mount point to attach the tray. First, I had to upgrade the power supply wiring from 14 to 12 gauge and then convert connectors to Andersen Powerpoles. Power comes direct from the battery, bypassing the vehicle fuse block, then into the Rigrunner on a 40 amp fuse. Fuse size on the device circuits are based on demand (Yaesu 100W FT-891 = 25A, Yaesu 50W FT-8900 = 15A). Now the radios can go from house, to truck, to backpack.

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