Garage Door Opener

[sal33n]

Most, if not all current garage door openers have a lock feature. Mine is a button I push that disables all remote access. Only the master switch in the garage will work.

Maybe they do, I don't know. I never looked into this feature on mine.

To be honest though, even if you do have that feature, are you really using it? If you go out then that would make your remote useless when you come back, lol.

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[WhyNot21]

Maybe they do, I don't know. I never looked into this feature on mine.

To be honest though, even if you do have that feature, are you really using it? If you go out then that would make your remote useless when you come back, lol.

As I said earlier in this thread, I only use it when I park in my driveway overnight. So, very rarely.

 

[JesseS]

I am adding the homelink to my XLT, and will wire it to a fuse tap on an ACC circuit. The garage opener in my wife's Prius is 'hot' all of the time, definitely a security risk, good thing she parks in the garage. I have re-arranged our garage so I can also get the Ranger in, tight fit but doable. The summers are brutal here and I prefer to not have it baking in the sun in the driveway.

 

[micl9]

Most, if not all current garage door openers have a lock feature. Mine is a button I push that disables all remote access. Only the master switch in the garage will work.

True
But I am not going to remember to turn that off and on every day. My solution works best, but I had the advantage of adding it myself

 

[WhyNot21]

True
But I am not going to remember to turn that off and on every day. My solution works best, but I had the advantage of adding it myself

Oh, I agree. I have no idea why they do it the way they do.

 

[D Fresh]

I added in a Lariat visor and wired it to accy on. If you really wanted to you could make the same hard wire mod.

OP I think Mike solved it for you. I think this would be worth the work in your situation. IIRC there is accessory power in the overhead console.

 

[micl9]

OP I think Mike solved it for you. I think this would be worth the work in your situation. IIRC there is accessory power in the overhead console.

I tapped into power down the A-pillar. The plug for the visor is at the top of the A pillar

 

[Apples]

Once the keep-alive times out, no more power to the link. As noted above, open the door, come close with the fob, and things wake up. The Ranger is no different than just about every other late-model in this respect.

 

[micl9]

Once the keep-alive times out, no more power to the link. As noted above, open the door, come close with the fob, and things wake up. The Ranger is no different than just about every other late-model in this respect.

Actually if you open the door the interior light keep alive restarts. The Homelink is wired to the vanity mirrors, which are powered from the interior lighting. So lights on - homelink is on.
I just realized I have a link in my signature to when I added a Lariat visor to my XLT for those interested!

Now if truck is unlocked and you open the doors, the lights come on and thus homelink works. However, that would also start the alarm timer I believe. So they may get the garage door open but the truck alarm will be going off. So its actually not a bad solution. unless of course the alarm doesn't come on if the truck is unlocked!
OK in my XLT if I forget to lock the truck and let it set for a while, in this case 30min. The alarm does not trigger if the truck is unlocked and you open the door! SO lights come on and your homelink is active. Bad design IMHO.
Can someone with a Lariat try leaving truck unlocked for 1/2 hour then go out and open the door and try the garage door opener?

Also my Wife' Pacifica, 2021, has to have the ign on to work.

 

[WhyNot21]

...
Can someone with a Lariat try leaving truck unlocked for 1/2 hour then go out and open the door and try the garage door opener?

I let it sit for days and it works. This is the same way my old Lexus and my wife's CX-5 work. Any other way is uncommon.

 

[Espo78]

Alright, I got my Lariat visors w/Homelink in the mail the other day from LKQ. They were kinda dirty/mildewed but they cleaned up nice with just water and a little magic eraser action. Now for my question. I plan on wiring these up to an ignition fused source from the fuse box on a dedicated wire ran up the A pillar. I have an XL so I don't have any power wires near the mirror and I specifically want the homelink activated only when the ignition is on. The dismantler cut the wires very short but at least gave me both halves of the connecter. Is it possible to remove the short wires from the connecter and replace them with new ones? I hate to cut and splice with such little wire and if I can avoid it altogether that's what I want to do. I'm also not super savvy with electrical connections so if anyone can offer some insight on how to wire it properly that would be great. I planned on using an Add-a-fuse thing in fuse box like this unless there is a better way:

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-5004...e&qid=1643826829&sprefix=add+a,aps,308&sr=8-3

 

[VTRanger]

The other day when it was freezing, I went out the garage and closed it with the keypad on the side of the garage, and when I came back from my walk the battery in the pad was dead and I couldn't open it. We lock the front door from the inside at night too. Luckily I had my garage door opener in the truck outside.

So... make sure to change that battery in the keypad on the side of the garage!

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

The other day when it was freezing, I went out the garage and closed it with the keypad on the side of the garage, and when I came back from my walk the battery in the pad was dead and I couldn't open it. We lock the front door from the inside at night too. Luckily I had my garage door opener in the truck outside.

So... make sure to change that battery in the keypad on the side of the garage!

Thanks for being the canary in the coal mine on this. I’ll be changing mine soon - I use it a lot.

 

[IdahoRanger]

The other day when it was freezing, I went out the garage and closed it with the keypad on the side of the garage, and when I came back from my walk the battery in the pad was dead and I couldn't open it. We lock the front door from the inside at night too. Luckily I had my garage door opener in the truck outside.

So... make sure to change that battery in the keypad on the side of the garage!

Once I had to change the battery in the keypad and the remote on the same day.

 

[micl9]

Alright, I got my Lariat visors w/Homelink in the mail the other day from LKQ. They were kinda dirty/mildewed but they cleaned up nice with just water and a little magic eraser action. Now for my question. I plan on wiring these up to an ignition fused source from the fuse box on a dedicated wire ran up the A pillar. I have an XL so I don't have any power wires near the mirror and I specifically want the homelink activated only when the ignition is on. The dismantler cut the wires very short but at least gave me both halves of the connecter. Is it possible to remove the short wires from the connecter and replace them with new ones? I hate to cut and splice with such little wire and if I can avoid it altogether that's what I want to do. I'm also not super savvy with electrical connections so if anyone can offer some insight on how to wire it properly that would be great. I planned on using an Add-a-fuse thing in fuse box like this unless there is a better way:

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-50040R-Holder-3-Circuit-Standard/dp/B07TBRM45F/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RN4KMCI4HUAP&keywords=add+a+fuse&qid=1643826829&sprefix=add+a,aps,308&sr=8-3

HERE is how I did mine. I had to buy the connector body and pins. You do need a crimp tool thats better than a red-blu-yel crimper. I tapped into an existing line

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