FIX YOUR MUSHY BRAKES

[mailbox4449]

As promised, I finally rounded up the correct brake fluid from NAPA, Penstosin DOT 4 LV. German made, this brake fluid meets all the down in the weeds specifications of the much more expensive Motocraft /Ford fluid; FMVSS 116 dot 4, SAE J1704, and ISO 4925 class 6. This is one of few "Super" Dot 4's to make it to the Class 6 spec. The NAPA site says it is Class 4 but going to the Pentosin manufacturers website and checking their specifications, it is clear this is a Class 6 fluid. Which is very important to operate correctly in the advance Ranger systems - ESP and ABS. While the rear wheels were off for another reason, I did the Mush Brake Fix procedure in FORSCAN, then gathered up the Bride and bled the system starting with furthest from the Master cylinder, RR, where a pretty big bubble was discharged. The LR discharged a smaller bubble. The front discharged no air. Having the rear wheels off was a good thing since the brake bleeders are on top, tucked in and difficult to get to without making a mess, even when using a tube to get the fluid into a jar. Getting the 13mm open end on the bleeder would be the bigger challenge. The fronts are not a problem, and were easily accessed on a creeper. The tall Tremor thing also helped out.

Results: Solid brakes with a much higher peddle engagement. I too had the 'must pump the brakes up' after extended rest periods which is now gone after doing the Mushy Brake Fix. Steven Tipton who strongly suggested an actual bleed is necessary, was correct. His post on the LV fluid is what triggered my research on the specs for the fluid. Seems this LV stuff is what is used in the high performance European rides. I had to ask for this stuff, as NAPA doesn't stock it on the floor, but in the back. It is on their website. Advanced Auto also sells it, but didn't check there for ready availability. What this didn't do was change the peddle feel to 'extreme', but produced a more expected (for me) feel and response of the brakes. Now I can drive my Bride's F150 without putting us through the windshield, always a plus!

Thanks for posting an "updated" fix. Appreciate it

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[AdamHarris]

OEM Motorcraft Dot 4 is actually cheaper than the other brand. At least right now on Amazon.

 

[Steven D Tipton]

OEM Motorcraft Dot 4 is actually cheaper than the other brand. At least right now on Amazon.

Is it Dot 4 LV? Or regular Dot 4?

 

[AdamHarris]

Is it Dot 4 LV? Or regular Dot 4?

 

[Steven D Tipton]

Actually not bad price. Thanks

 

[AdamHarris]

I am a Prime member so I don’t know if that affects the price or not.

 

[Steven D Tipton]

I am a Prime member so I don’t know if that affects the price or not.

Just checked my Business account through them. Same Price.. Seems very selected on items with business discount. I still get my discount on Redbull. Really all that matters. LOL

 

[briwill70]

Has anyone who did the forscan brake purge noticed the mushy feeling return? After driving for several months after the purge, my brakes are feeling mushy again.

 

[Steven D Tipton]

Has anyone who did the forscan brake purge noticed the mushy feeling return? After driving for several months after the purge, my brakes are feeling mushy again.

Depends how you did it. I would recommend reading from the beginning. I put in best way to do it. Up to you to how you choose, my suggestion or doing it without bleeding. I would do the way I recommend. If you haven't.

 

[Silver]

OEM Motorcraft Dot 4 is actually cheaper than the other brand. At least right now on Amazon.

Be sure you are comparing apples, i.e. bottle size/quantity? I paid something just over $20 for a Liter, used a pint or so and bought locally...

 

[AdamHarris]

Be sure you are comparing apples, i.e. bottle size/quantity? I paid something just over $20 for a Liter, used a pint or so and bought locally...

Oh crap your right. Motorcraft is $15 for only 1 pint! The other is $20 for 1 liter.

 

[Joeiconic]

Has anyone who did the forscan brake purge noticed the mushy feeling return? After driving for several months after the purge, my brakes are feeling mushy again.

Any reason you can’t do the bleed again?

 

[Silver]

Any reason you can’t do the bleed again?

No. However, my experience on this specifically was to do the Mushy Brake fix w/FORSCAN and then go directly to a full (normal) bleed of the system which has resulted in a much higher brake peddle and normal feeling brakes/braking. I did do just the Mushy Brake fix w/FORSCAN several months ago which helped, but Steve Tipton expressed, a bleeding of the brakes should follow to remove any air the lines produced by the "Fix"; which did, I found a few bubbles in the rear lines during the bleed. A page or so back is my writeup on this...

 

[MountainGoat]

No. However, my experience on this specifically was to do the Mushy Brake fix w/FORSCAN and then go directly to a full (normal) bleed of the system which has resulted in a much higher brake peddle and normal feeling brakes/braking. I did do just the Mushy Brake fix w/FORSCAN several months ago which helped, but Steve Tipton expressed, a bleeding of the brakes should follow to remove any air the lines produced by the "Fix"; which did, I found a few bubbles in the rear lines during the bleed. A page or so back is my writeup on this...

I have to wonder how brake bleeds are going to go if we can't renew forscan licences anymore...

I could never bleed my old Nissan properly because of the abs system.

 

[Silver]

I have to wonder how brake bleeds are going to go if we can't renew forscan licences anymore...

I could never bleed my old Nissan properly because of the abs system.

Bleeding brakes is the same operation as before FORSCAN; pump brake peddle, hold down peddle, open bleeder valve, at bottom of peddle travel, close valve and repeat.... Helps to use hose and beer bottle to catch discharged brake fluid...

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