FIX YOUR MUSHY BRAKES

[Silver]

As promised, I finally rounded up the correct brake fluid from NAPA, Penstosin DOT 4 LV. German made, this brake fluid meets all the down in the weeds specifications of the much more expensive Motocraft /Ford fluid; FMVSS 116 dot 4, SAE J1704, and ISO 4925 class 6. This is one of few "Super" Dot 4's to make it to the Class 6 spec. The NAPA site says it is Class 4 but going to the Pentosin manufacturers website and checking their specifications, it is clear this is a Class 6 fluid. Which is very important to operate correctly in the advance Ranger systems - ESP and ABS. While the rear wheels were off for another reason, I did the Mush Brake Fix procedure in FORSCAN, then gathered up the Bride and bled the system starting with furthest from the Master cylinder, RR, where a pretty big bubble was discharged. The LR discharged a smaller bubble. The front discharged no air. Having the rear wheels off was a good thing since the brake bleeders are on top, tucked in and difficult to get to without making a mess, even when using a tube to get the fluid into a jar. Getting the 13mm open end on the bleeder would be the bigger challenge. The fronts are not a problem, and were easily accessed on a creeper. The tall Tremor thing also helped out.

Results: Solid brakes with a much higher peddle engagement. I too had the 'must pump the brakes up' after extended rest periods which is now gone after doing the Mushy Brake Fix. Steven Tipton who strongly suggested an actual bleed is necessary, was correct. His post on the LV fluid is what triggered my research on the specs for the fluid. Seems this LV stuff is what is used in the high performance European rides. I had to ask for this stuff, as NAPA doesn't stock it on the floor, but in the back. It is on their website. Advanced Auto also sells it, but didn't check there for ready availability. What this didn't do was change the peddle feel to 'extreme', but produced a more expected (for me) feel and response of the brakes. Now I can drive my Bride's F150 without putting us through the windshield, always a plus!

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[Steven D Tipton]

As promised, I finally rounded up the correct brake fluid from NAPA, Penstosin DOT 4 LV. German made, this brake fluid meets all the down in the weeds specifications of the much more expensive Motocraft /Ford fluid; FMVSS 116 dot 4, SAE J1704, and ISO 4925 class 6. This is one of few "Super" Dot 4's to make it to the Class 6 spec. The NAPA site says it is Class 4 but going to the Pentosin manufacturers website and checking their specifications, it is clear this is a Class 6 fluid. Which is very important to operate correctly in the advance Ranger systems - ESP and ABS. While the rear wheels were off for another reason, I did the Mush Brake Fix procedure in FORSCAN, then gathered up the Bride and bled the system starting with furthest from the Master cylinder, RR, where a pretty big bubble was discharged. The LR discharged a smaller bubble. The front discharged no air. Having the rear wheels off was a good thing since the brake bleeders are on top, tucked in and difficult to get to without making a mess, even when using a tube to get the fluid into a jar. Getting the 13mm open end on the bleeder would be the bigger challenge. The fronts are not a problem, and were easily accessed on a creeper. The tall Tremor thing also helped out.

Results: Solid brakes with a much higher peddle engagement. I too had the 'must pump the brakes up' after extended rest periods which is now gone after doing the Mushy Brake Fix. Steven Tipton who strongly suggested an actual bleed is necessary, was correct. His post on the LV fluid is what triggered my research on the specs for the fluid. Seems this LV stuff is what is used in the high performance European rides. I had to ask for this stuff, as NAPA doesn't stock it on the floor, but in the back. It is on their website. Advanced Auto also sells it, but didn't check there for ready availability. What this didn't do was change the peddle feel to 'extreme', but produced a more expected (for me) feel and response of the brakes. Now I can drive my Bride's F150 without putting us through the windshield, always a plus!

Nice to see some do it the right way. We shouldn't have to but that's life. Thanks for the great write up and hopes many will follow your write up. Enjoy

 

[Silver]

Nice to see some do it the right way. We shouldn't have to buy that's life. Thanks for the great write up and hopes many will follow your write up. Enjoy

You were Spot On Steve, thanks for for leading the way here!

 

[mailbox4449]

Hey everyone, Trevor here. I posted that video for all of us Ranger owners. For those of you wondering how and why or looking for a technical explanation, the best thing I can tell you is that the ABS system has to be primed internally in the pump and module. All this procedure is doing is activating/priming the ABS module/pump and opening all the valves. Even if you did open the bleeder screws and do a proper bleed procedure you would have the same effect with or without opening up the system. It doesn’t seem like there is air in the system but more that it wasn’t fully primed when built. I do not know exactly what the internal pressure inside the ABS module is supposed to be but I know that from the factory they don’t seem to be completely primed like most vehicles. There again I do not have a perfect explanation as to why but I just know this procedure works. I had the same issue with my Mustang and in doing this procedure it fixed the issue in my Mustang as well and that’s been over 10k miles ago and I have not had a single issue or adverse effect on the Mustang or brake system whatsoever. I have about 400-500 miles on my Ranger since doing the procedure and I’ve not had any warning lights or issues whatsoever. I’ve done this procedure on 1 other Ranger and 1 other Mustang and both of those have been successful with no adverse effects either. Hope this helps you guys out.

Thanks for posting on the forum and YT Appreciate the work you put into doing this

 

[mailbox4449]

As promised, I finally rounded up the correct brake fluid from NAPA, Penstosin DOT 4 LV. German made, this brake fluid meets all the down in the weeds specifications of the much more expensive Motocraft /Ford fluid; FMVSS 116 dot 4, SAE J1704, and ISO 4925 class 6. This is one of few "Super" Dot 4's to make it to the Class 6 spec. The NAPA site says it is Class 4 but going to the Pentosin manufacturers website and checking their specifications, it is clear this is a Class 6 fluid. Which is very important to operate correctly in the advance Ranger systems - ESP and ABS. While the rear wheels were off for another reason, I did the Mush Brake Fix procedure in FORSCAN, then gathered up the Bride and bled the system starting with furthest from the Master cylinder, RR, where a pretty big bubble was discharged. The LR discharged a smaller bubble. The front discharged no air. Having the rear wheels off was a good thing since the brake bleeders are on top, tucked in and difficult to get to without making a mess, even when using a tube to get the fluid into a jar. Getting the 13mm open end on the bleeder would be the bigger challenge. The fronts are not a problem, and were easily accessed on a creeper. The tall Tremor thing also helped out.

Results: Solid brakes with a much higher peddle engagement. I too had the 'must pump the brakes up' after extended rest periods which is now gone after doing the Mushy Brake Fix. Steven Tipton who strongly suggested an actual bleed is necessary, was correct. His post on the LV fluid is what triggered my research on the specs for the fluid. Seems this LV stuff is what is used in the high performance European rides. I had to ask for this stuff, as NAPA doesn't stock it on the floor, but in the back. It is on their website. Advanced Auto also sells it, but didn't check there for ready availability. What this didn't do was change the peddle feel to 'extreme', but produced a more expected (for me) feel and response of the brakes. Now I can drive my Bride's F150 without putting us through the windshield, always a plus!

Thanks for posting an "updated" fix. Appreciate it

 

[AdamHarris]

OEM Motorcraft Dot 4 is actually cheaper than the other brand. At least right now on Amazon.

 

[Steven D Tipton]

OEM Motorcraft Dot 4 is actually cheaper than the other brand. At least right now on Amazon.

Is it Dot 4 LV? Or regular Dot 4?

 

[AdamHarris]

Is it Dot 4 LV? Or regular Dot 4?

 

[Steven D Tipton]

Actually not bad price. Thanks

 

[AdamHarris]

I am a Prime member so I don’t know if that affects the price or not.

 

[Steven D Tipton]

I am a Prime member so I don’t know if that affects the price or not.

Just checked my Business account through them. Same Price.. Seems very selected on items with business discount. I still get my discount on Redbull. Really all that matters. LOL

 

[briwill70]

Has anyone who did the forscan brake purge noticed the mushy feeling return? After driving for several months after the purge, my brakes are feeling mushy again.

 

[Steven D Tipton]

Has anyone who did the forscan brake purge noticed the mushy feeling return? After driving for several months after the purge, my brakes are feeling mushy again.

Depends how you did it. I would recommend reading from the beginning. I put in best way to do it. Up to you to how you choose, my suggestion or doing it without bleeding. I would do the way I recommend. If you haven't.

 

[Silver]

OEM Motorcraft Dot 4 is actually cheaper than the other brand. At least right now on Amazon.

Be sure you are comparing apples, i.e. bottle size/quantity? I paid something just over $20 for a Liter, used a pint or so and bought locally...

 

[AdamHarris]

Be sure you are comparing apples, i.e. bottle size/quantity? I paid something just over $20 for a Liter, used a pint or so and bought locally...

Oh crap your right. Motorcraft is $15 for only 1 pint! The other is $20 for 1 liter.

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