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FIX YOUR MUSHY BRAKES

fusseli

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2019 FX4 with 30k miles, doing the procedure this morning. I'm hopeful!
 

paval3

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I have a quick question.... I did the fix for the mushy brakes, that's the only thing I did with Forescan. Question is, if/when I have to get a new battery... will that wipe out the Forescan fix? I know with my Mountaineer, when the battery is disconnected sometimes I have to do some resets... but maybe it depends on the length of time battery is disconnected??
 

Silver

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Don't think so, since the operation is not a "setting" but a physical "procedure" conducted by the system. Basically my thinking says, the procedure will not go backward, just like bleeding a standard brake system - can't un-bleed the hydraulic system.
 

paval3

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Don't think so, since the operation is not a "setting" but a physical "procedure" conducted by the system. Basically my thinking says, the procedure will not go backward, just like bleeding a standard brake system - can't un-bleed the hydraulic system.
Thank you! I was hoping to hear that.
 


fusseli

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Did the abs self bleed as described. Could maybe notice a small difference but nothing huge. So I guess my 2019 wasn’t too bad as it was.
 

Steven D Tipton

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This video is 100% correct but you have to bleed main lines out after bleeding air out of ABS module. Yes, I heard you had 20 years and respect that but Abs air gets pushed out of abs module in to main lines into small bubbles. Over time, these tiny bubbles will joined back together in to one big bubble. Same issues will return. You 100% right on the fix but you have removed the air remove from the abs module to main line. Now you have to finish bleeding air out main lines afterwards. I have done this in my shop and problem is gone for good. Nice video

Also very important : DOT 4 Low Viscosity (LV) High Performance Brake Fluid or equivalent meeting WSS-M6C65-A2. Make sure you use LV
 
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treimche

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I did the FORSCAN bleed procedure on my 2019 Ranger Lariat this fall after seeing this information posted and it made a huge difference for me. Big thanks to Trevor @2Xero21 !!
 

Hellrazor

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This video is 100% correct but you have to bleed main lines out after bleeding air out of ABS module. Yes, I heard you had 20 years and respect that but Abs air gets pushed out of abs module in to main lines into small bubbles. Over time, these tiny bubbles will joined back together in to one big bubble. Same issues will return. You 100% right on the fix but you have removed the air remove from the abs module to main line. Now you have to finish bleeding air out main lines afterwards. I have done this in my shop and problem is gone for good. Nice video

Also very important : DOT 4 Low Viscosity (LV) High Performance Brake Fluid or equivalent meeting WSS-M6C65-A2. Make sure you use LV
What’s the main lines? The four bleeder on the calipers? I was thinking about bleeding my brakes because I did the service bleed and it did fix my pedal. I was just wondering where all the air went?
 

Steven D Tipton

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What’s the main lines? The four bleeder on the calipers? I was thinking about bleeding my brakes because I did the service bleed and it did fix my pedal. I was just wondering where all the air went?
Brake fluid travels from master cylinder to abs module, abs module to each wheel. Yes calipers, need bleed to removes air that's been pushed out to lines in between calipers. System doesn't bleed air out into thin air. Unless you crack the bleeders. My way of bleeding, is a Gatorade bottle with 1/4 brake in it. Clear hose from bleeders into bottle of 1/4 brake fluid. Pump brake till you get solid stream of fluid no bubbles
 

Dgc333

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This video is 100% correct but you have to bleed main lines out after bleeding air out of ABS module. Yes, I heard you had 20 years and respect that but Abs air gets pushed out of abs module in to main lines into small bubbles. Over time, these tiny bubbles will joined back together in to one big bubble. Same issues will return. You 100% right on the fix but you have removed the air remove from the abs module to main line. Now you have to finish bleeding air out main lines afterwards. I have done this in my shop and problem is gone for good. Nice video

Also very important : DOT 4 Low Viscosity (LV) High Performance Brake Fluid or equivalent meeting WSS-M6C65-A2. Make sure you use LV
Considering that there have been about 200 people that have reported doing this routine in the thread, having great success and not reporting it degrading over time, I would say it's permanent. I did it at the end of August last year and the brakes have been consistently good since.

I don't think it has anything to do with air in the system. I would guess one or more of the return valves in the ABS module is leaking allowing fluid to pass to the accumulator resulting in the soft pedal and slow fall of the pedal to the floor. Running this routine cycles the valves in the ABS rapidly effectively "breaking them in" so afterward in non anti-lock braking the return valves don't leak giving you normal brake feel.

FYI, Whether you have many tiny bubbles or one large bubble in the system it won't change the mushiness. The overall compression of the air in the system whether spread over many small bubbles or one large will be the same.
 

Zetterbeard

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Just did this on my truck. Man it scared the shit out of me when it started!

Definitely an improvement! I also cleared the transmission tables since I was in there too since I was getting some clunks. Seemed to improve that as well, but will have to go on a longer test drive to confirm.
Where in FORScan is the transmission tables reset? I don't have it hooked up now, but have also had some clunkiness and may try resetting.
 

Steven D Tipton

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Considering that there have been about 200 people that have reported doing this routine in the thread, having great success and not reporting it degrading over time, I would say it's permanent. I did it at the end of August last year and the brakes have been consistently good since.

I don't think it has anything to do with air in the system. I would guess one or more of the return valves in the ABS module is leaking allowing fluid to pass to the accumulator resulting in the soft pedal and slow fall of the pedal to the floor. Running this routine cycles the valves in the ABS rapidly effectively "breaking them in" so afterward in non anti-lock braking the return valves don't leak giving you normal brake feel.

FYI, Whether you have many tiny bubbles or one large bubble in the system it won't change the mushiness. The overall compression of the air in the system whether spread over many small bubbles or one large will be the same.
You can have your opinion I'll have mine. Good luck. I know how much I removed. Both my rangers throw you through the window if need to. Most of your numbers report better. No great. Again thanks for your input but I'll stick to facts. All I have to say about subject.
 

Silver

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You can have your opinion I'll have mine. Good luck. I know how much I removed. Both my rangers throw you through the window if need to. Most of your numbers report better. No great. Again thanks for your input but I'll stick to facts. All I have to say about subject.

Bleeding is a simple enough thing to do, so in consideration of going the extra mile on a safety system - get er done.
 

bearrug

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I have the ford performance tune on the truck should I return it to stock before messing around with forscan for the brakes.
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