FIX YOUR MUSHY BRAKES

[airline tech]

There is a TSB i believe but you can do it yourself with forscan , or old school bleed ,some say doing both seems to get the best results...

The TSB only covers brake pedal travel and measurements are taken with a tape measure.
It does not address the mushy/spongy brakes.

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[NotBudule]

(1) FIX YOUR MUSHY BRAKES | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

 

[PINKS]

Thanks guys!...much appreciated!....I've noticed that if I just give the peddle 3-4 quick short pumps as you come to a stop sign/light the peddle becomes very sensitive.....my reflexes aren't that good anymore to do this in an emergency situation!!???....will check out the bleeding procedures mentioned above!!....again thanks!!??

 

[canyonslicker]

Thanks guys!...much appreciated!....I've noticed that if I just give the peddle 3-4 quick short pumps as you come to a stop sign/light the peddle becomes very sensitive.....my reflexes aren't that good anymore to do this in an emergency situation!!???....will check out the bleeding procedures mentioned above!!....again thanks!!??

Yeah pretty much my story. However I’ve had a few emergency situations and the brakes worked great. Maybe it was the pre-emergency brake routine that helped IDK. I still give them a couple of taps like you sometimes.

 

[ccasanova22]

Does anybody have the opposite problem? My brake pedal “catches” so quickly people who drive my truck nearly slam their head on the steering wheel. Compared to performance cars (6th gen Camaro SS, WK1 Jeep SRT8, 5.7L Challenger, C6/C7, etc.) the brake pedal on my Ranger is stupid catchy and has way too much initial bite.

How do I get the brakes to feel more linear instead of instant “grab” at the first few mm of pedal travel?

Sometimes it’s so touchy it’s like driving a Smart car lol

 

[airline tech]

Well, it depends.
The Ranger Brake Pedal reacts differently to the way the brake is applied.

Now if it does what you describe even if you ease into the brake coming to a stop.

1. Then it is possible for a sticking caliper or blocked brake hose.
The caliper is not fully returning to at rest position.
Thus, a shorter travel for it to make contact with the rotor.
Now a sticking caliper can be caused by.
Sticking Piston / Corroded Caliper Slides / Blocked Brake Hose, not allowing the fluid to return when brake pressure is released.

2. Distorted rotor surface, dirty, brake pads grabbing on the surface on the rotor, excessive buildup of brake pad material on the rotor surface, or uneven surface.
A severe uneven surface (warped rotor) will be felt in the brake pedal (Pulsating)

3. Check the Calipers / Pads / Rotors, spray rotors with brake clean and buff lightly with a Scoth Brite pad or rag, depending on how thick the coating is.

4. Perform a Brake Bed Procedure:
What this does is helps smooth out the brake pad material evenly on the rotor surface.
by heating and cooling the rotor surface

Get to an open road or parking lot:
1. Get up to 30-35 MPH and gradually apply brakes to slow down to about 5 MPH.
Repeat this step a few times then.

2. Get up to 50-55 MPH and then gradually apply brake to slow down to about 5 MPH
Repeat the step a few times then.

3. Get up to 35-40 MPH and Hit the Brakes Hard, only do this a couple of times as you do not want to overheat the brake pads.

If no open road is available to do this.
Find an open parking lot where you can perform step 1 and 3.

From my experience, dirty rotor surfaces, squealing brake pads etc. are cured by cleaning the rotor surface and then performing step 1 and 3 as long as there is not anything mechanically wrong and it is just a dirty surface contact problem.


What I suspect is a new driver to the Ranger, not used to it.
If they are a driver who gets close to a stop and hits the brake pedal quickly.

THIS TRUCK WILL STOP ON A DIME, if needed
This is tied to the Emergency Braking System

 

[ccasanova22]

Well, it depends.
The Ranger Brake Pedal reacts differently to the way the brake is applied.

Now if it does what you describe even if you ease into the brake coming to a stop.

1. Then it is possible for a sticking caliper or blocked brake hose.
The caliper is not fully returning to at rest position.
Thus, a shorter travel for it to make contact with the rotor.
Now a sticking caliper can be caused by.
Sticking Piston / Corroded Caliper Slides / Blocked Brake Hose, not allowing the fluid to return when brake pressure is released.

2. Distorted rotor surface, dirty, brake pads grabbing on the surface on the rotor, excessive buildup of brake pad material on the rotor surface, or uneven surface.
A severe uneven surface (warped rotor) will be felt in the brake pedal (Pulsating)

3. Check the Calipers / Pads / Rotors, spray rotors with brake clean and buff lightly with a Scoth Brite pad or rag, depending on how thick the coating is.

4. Perform a Brake Bed Procedure:
What this does is helps smooth out the brake pad material evenly on the rotor surface.
by heating and cooling the rotor surface

Get to an open road or parking lot:
1. Get up to 30-35 MPH and gradually apply brakes to slow down to about 5 MPH.
Repeat this step a few times then.

2. Get up to 50-55 MPH and then gradually apply brake to slow down to about 5 MPH
Repeat the step a few times then.

3. Get up to 35-40 MPH and Hit the Brakes Hard, only do this a couple of times as you do not want to overheat the brake pads.

If no open road is available to do this.
Find an open parking lot where you can perform step 1 and 3.

From my experience, dirty rotor surfaces, squealing brake pads etc. are cured by cleaning the rotor surface and then performing step 1 and 3 as long as there is not anything mechanically wrong and it is just a dirty surface contact problem.


What I suspect is a new driver to the Ranger, not used to it.
If they are a driver who gets close to a stop and hits the brake pedal quickly.

THIS TRUCK WILL STOP ON A DIME, if needed
This is tied to the Emergency Braking System

Thanks! I don’t think it is dirt on the pads or rotors, they look clean, and don’t make any noises.

I’ve done a manual brake bleed (opening the bleeder valves while someone works the pedal) and there was no change.

I haven’t driven another Ranger so don’t know what to compare to, but it’s very obvious when switching cars (especially those with Brembos or other performance brakes).

Those cars you can “ease” into the brakes, this thing seems like it instantly brakes as soon as you start to touch the pedal.

Someone posted adjusting a bolt or something affecting where the brake pedal itself starts applying force, could that be it?

Mine appears to be set VERY close to the end which differs from some photos I’ve seen here of that adjuster, but I don’t want to adjust it if I don’t know all the consequences…

Edit: found thread. It was started by AdamHarris here: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/brake-pedal-adjustment.12283/

 

[got3fords]

Don't know much about how the power assist works, but is it possible it is kicking in way too soon? Maybe a sensor or something is a bit off?

 

[airline tech]

Now it is possible that your Brake Pedal is misadjusted, and I would travel that path only IF it has done this since NEW.

If all mechanical items in the brake system have been checked and they are good, then the issue may be in the ABS Control or Brake Booster.
There are quite a few sensors that tie into the system but anything in the ABS should trigger an ABS Warning Light and Code.

Does the ABS Module trip when this happens - Noise and Pulse Felt on the Brake Pedal?

I have a feeling just by description of your issue that the problem may be in this control circuit of the ABS Module

Does the nose of the truck dip down when the brakes are applied, and your touchy brake symptom is noted?

The purpose of this system is to provide even braking, it takes the place of the old school proportion valve in older vehicles as it is now internal control of the ABS Module.


Electronic Brake Force Distribution (EBD)

On initial application of the brake pedal, full pressure is applied to the rear brakes. The ABS module uses wheel speed sensor inputs to evaluate rear wheel slip. Once the rear wheel slip exceeds a predetermined threshold, the ABS module commands the HCU to close the appropriate isolation valves to hold the rear brake pressure constant while allowing the front brake pressure to build. This creates a balanced braking condition between the front and rear wheels. If the rear wheel slip continues and exceeds a second predetermined threshold, the ABS module commands the HCU to open the dump valves to decrease the rear brake pressure and allow the rear wheels to recover. A slight bump sensation may be felt in the brake pedal when EBD is active. If the ABS is disabled due to Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) being present in the ABS module, EBD continues to function unless the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are for wheel speed sensors or the HCU solenoid valves. When EBD is disabled, the ABS warning indicator, the red brake warning indicator and traction control indicator illuminate.

Brake Booster: Ops

This is why I am asking if the ABS is triggering when your event happens?

Supplemental Braking Assist

In addition to preventing wheel lock up during braking events, the ABS module is also able to provide supplemental hydraulic brake assist through the use of the hydraulic pump motor and the HCU. This is done in the event of a severe vacuum loss at the brake booster, to maintain the distance gap set by the adaptive cruise control system or to aid in the avoidance of forward collisions.

The ABS module utilizes the HCU and hydraulic pump motor to aid in bringing the vehicle to a safe, controlled stop in the event of severe vacuum loss at the brake booster. The ABS module continually monitors the vacuum in the brake booster through the use of a vacuum sensor. When the vacuum sensor indicates vacuum is below a predetermined level, a DTC is set in the ABS module. If this occurs during a braking event or if the driver attempts to stop the vehicle with a low vacuum condition in the brake booster, the ABS module activates the hydraulic pump motor in the HCU to assist with vehicle braking.

On vehicles equipped with adaptive cruise control, the CCM monitors the area forward of the vehicle. When an object enters this area and closes the distance gap set by the driver, the CCM sends a deceleration request to the IPMA over a private CAN . The IPMA then sends the message to the ABS module over the HS-CAN2 (either an adaptive cruise control deceleration request or a collision avoidance deceleration request). When the deceleration request message is received, the ABS module activates the hydraulic pump motor and solenoid valves in the HCU to slow the vehicle down to maintain the distance gap set by the driver. Once the distance gap set by the driver is achieved, the CCM stops sending the deceleration request message and the ABS module deactivates the hydraulic pump motor and solenoid valves in the HCU . If the CCM determines the amount of braking provided by the ABS module is insufficient, the CCM sends a forward collision avoidance braking request message and warns the driver, both audibly and visually, through the use of the HUD . After receiving the braking request message, the ABS module waits for brake pedal input and, once received, applies maximum braking assist using the hydraulic pump motor and the HCU .


The Vacuum Sensor in the above description is a known failure part.

 

[ccasanova22]

My Ranger has done this from Day 1. During the test drive (10 miles) I did notice it and when mentioned, was told by the dealer “Ford brakes are all touchy that’s normal”. Later when one of their staff drove it I saw the nosedive at every stop.

So mine has done this for a whole year, and nothing has changed.

Would this seem like the brake pedal position or something else?

No codes, my ABS works fine, and I can get it to brake “proportionally” if I don’t push it more than a few mm initially.

Other cars, it seems like 5mm before any braking force even happens. On performance cars, it’s like 10mm before that initial “bite”.

 

[ccasanova22]

So I did some hard stops as per airline tech’s instructions and now my brake pedal engages much lower, to keep the truck at a full stop it’s about even with the gas pedal.

Wondering if the engagement height will now “creep back up” or if this is just temporary.

I did feel some brake fade as the later stops required more pressure, so I don’t know if what I got was just fade or actually “setting” the engagement point lower.

 

[ccasanova22]

I’ve tried both a manual bleed (jack up and open each bleeder while pumping the brakes) and also getting on slippery roads and jamming on the brakes to try and bleed the ABS.

My problem is, the brake pedal immediately grabs when you touch it, unlike other vehicles where there’s 5-10mm of free play.

Is there anything else that can be done to correct this? Not exactly spongy, but doesn’t feel natural and brakes too suddenly…

 

[ForgedGreen]

Just picked up a 22 ranger XLT two days ago and first thing I noticed was how soft the brake engagement was. Was worried I made a huge mistake. Just did the FORScan trick and what a difference. Thank you for this!!

 

[skrumpe]

I randomly got fed this video on youtube tonight. Glad I found it because my brakes feel softer than they should. But I thought maybe it was a Ford thing because my old Grand Marquis was the same way. What really got my attention was that the 2 Colorados at work have a much higher brake pedal, which takes adjusting to and sometimes feels like I hit the brakes too hard. Might see if I can do anything with this after my half-day of work tomorrow

 

[lariat]

Just picked up a 22 ranger XLT two days ago and first thing I noticed was how soft the brake engagement was. Was worried I made a huge mistake. Just did the FORScan trick and what a difference. Thank you for this!!

I keep hearing of this trick, but what do you need to do?

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