FIX YOUR MUSHY BRAKES

[Muffin1]

Mine does exactly the same, I could be at a red light and pretty much push it (almost) to the floor, soft all the way, but a panic or hard stop, it stops. I just don’t like the feel and my previous ‘18 F150 was the same.
I wonder if the dealer would do the Forscan bleed if you were to offer to pay out of pocket, I failed to ever get Forscan to even open as a file on my computer so I gave up that route.

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[airline tech]

Update, I got my daughter to help today, had her pump brake pedal and hold. I got a ton of air out of R/Rear Caliper. It was enough that I went from max fill down below min fill at the master cylinder before I stopped getting air bubbles. so that brake line was confirmed full of air, the rest of the calipers only a small amount of air was found. Brake pedal now feels firm at stop light, but under hard foot pressure it sinks/fades to floor. Which is NORMAL

Before the bleed, even light foot pressure would cause it to go to floor. I can't understand how and why (Ford's Service Department's) discourage doing anything for this issue. (Except it's Warranty -Work) and they don't make money on Warranty Work). I can bet that when it's out of Warranty - it will be sure bring it in. Issues like this is why I will always do my own work on my vehicles except for tires and alignments. If I had the equipment, I would do them as well

I performed numerous hard brake test today in an open parking lot - so brake bedding is now completed, the truck now stops on a dime. Before today's bleed it didn't, the brake bedding does help with the brake grab response, but the bleed is what fixes the mushy pedal - CONFIRMED

We all have the ability to perform the service bleed via Scanner like (Autel , Snap-On etc) and Forscan, and I wanted to use the ABS Module to perform the bleed, but I am not sure how much fluid would pump out of bleeder screw during its activation cycle and did not want to chance emptying the Master Cylinder even with using the autofill bottle. I have hooked up to master cylinder. (Sits on top of master cylinder) I think it may need to have a tank style machine. Plus, I'm not sure if its constant pressure or does it pulse it? kind of-hard to do unless you have proper tooling set-up. Back in my Auto Mech days we just used a Pressure Bleed-Tank or Another Mech to Pump Brake Pedal. So, I have never seen it done with the ABS Module. I have owned a Bi-Directional scanner for the last 20 years or so, but I have never used this function
I have Forscan as well, Forscan can do things that my 1500-dollar scanner can't. (Bambi-Mode Etc)
I hope this helps - others

 

[Deleted member 15875]

Just a question for owners that have fixed their mushy brake issue, when you press on your brake pedal at stop light does it stay hard and firm or does it slowly fade down to floor? I tried to get mine done under warranty, but the service writer got in it and said that it is normal for new vehicles and said that in order for them to look at it they have to confirm issue. Being a former ASE Cert brake tech (30 years ago), I find this hard to believe. So, I performed Brake Bleed myself with my Autel Scanner (same procedure as ForScan) and did normal bleed at calipers via vacuum as I was by myself. No help. Brake action is normal except for pedal fade to floor, if you keep light pressure on pedal, it does not fade then if you press harder it drops. I plan on doing another bleed with helper and see if that makes any difference. I kind of suspect either air still in system or by-passing master cylinder or new normal - and have to adjust to it

Is my description - the same as all the mushy brake complaints or something different?

So, I'm looking for what is normal for our Rangers

Thanks

So mine has a foot of play before the brakes start to engage....Pretty annoying.

 

[Car Guy Bill]

Update, I got my daughter to help today, had her pump brake pedal and hold. I got a ton of air out of R/Rear Caliper. It was enough that I went from max fill down below min fill at the master cylinder before I stopped getting air bubbles. so that brake line was confirmed full of air, the rest of the calipers only a small amount of air was found. Brake pedal now feels firm at stop light, but under hard foot pressure it sinks/fades to floor. Which is NORMAL

Before the bleed, even light foot pressure would cause it to go to floor. I can't understand how and why (Ford's Service Department's) discourage doing anything for this issue. (Except it's Warranty -Work) and they don't make money on Warranty Work). I can bet that when it's out of Warranty - it will be sure bring it in. Issues like this is why I will always do my own work on my vehicles except for tires and alignments. If I had the equipment, I would do them as well

I performed numerous hard brake test today in an open parking lot - so brake bedding is now completed, the truck now stops on a dime. Before today's bleed it didn't, the brake bedding does help with the brake grab response, but the bleed is what fixes the mushy pedal - CONFIRMED

We all have the ability to perform the service bleed via Scanner like (Autel , Snap-On etc) and Forscan, and I wanted to use the ABS Module to perform the bleed, but I am not sure how much fluid would pump out of bleeder screw during its activation cycle and did not want to chance emptying the Master Cylinder even with using the autofill bottle. I have hooked up to master cylinder. (Sits on top of master cylinder) I think it may need to have a tank style machine. Plus, I'm not sure if its constant pressure or does it pulse it? kind of-hard to do unless you have proper tooling set-up. Back in my Auto Mech days we just used a Pressure Bleed-Tank or Another Mech to Pump Brake Pedal. So, I have never seen it done with the ABS Module. I have owned a Bi-Directional scanner for the last 20 years or so, but I have never used this function
I have Forscan as well, Forscan can do things that my 1500-dollar scanner can't. (Bambi-Mode Etc)
I hope this helps - others

Thanks for the post I had mine back to the dealer to do the ABS Blead and that helped for a short period of time. I then took it back a few weeks later and paid them to do a full bleed of the system. There was no difference in the breaking. I contacted Ford and got them to reimburse me for my service ticket for bleeding.

This was back when I purchased the truck about six moths ago. Yesterday I purchased the correct DOT 4 LV Break Fluid and did an oil change and break bleed the old school Race Car way and the RR Had a Shit Tun of air in it. The truck now drives the way it should for the size of braking system it has.

Sucks we have to do this ourselves but at least that fixed it. I have much more confidence in the truck now. Its days are still numbered and when the order banks open for the Ranger Raptor it will be going by by.



Thanks again.

 

[Langwilliams]

to bleed the brakes with the bleeder valves does the truck have to be in maintenance mode? I was going to do this while my brother was here an he said someone he knows did a standard brake bleed an had all kinds of problems after. It wasn't a ford though.

 

[AdamHarris]

to bleed the brakes with the bleeder valves does the truck have to be in maintenance mode? I was going to do this while my brother was here an he said someone he knows did a standard brake bleed an had all kinds of problems after. It wasn't a ford though.

No a Ranger does not. Sounds like he was referring to a Mercedes SBC system or some such.

 

[Car Guy Bill]

No a Ranger does not. Sounds like he was referring to a Mercedes SBC system or some such.

I have run into this on other vehicles as well. The Ranger is Old School you will be fine!

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Thanks for the post I had mine back to the dealer to do the ABS Blead and that helped for a short period of time. I then took it back a few weeks later and paid them to do a full bleed of the system. There was no difference in the breaking. I contacted Ford and got them to reimburse me for my service ticket for bleeding.

This was back when I purchased the truck about six moths ago. Yesterday I purchased the correct DOT 4 LV Break Fluid and did an oil change and break bleed the old school Race Car way and the RR Had a Shit Tun of air in it. The truck now drives the way it should for the size of braking system it has.

Sucks we have to do this ourselves but at least that fixed it. I have much more confidence in the truck now. Its days are still numbered and when the order banks open for the Ranger Raptor it will be going by by.



Thanks again.

Hi Bill,

The plant evac and fill should not leave any air in the system at the RR wheel, It implies something is/was wrong. Wonder if it was caused by the dealer. Plant system has warnings if evac and fill was incomplete...

Best,
Phil

 

[AdamHarris]

When I did the physical bleed probably 30 bubbles or more out of my system. Bubbles came out of every corner.

 

[Muffin1]

When I did the physical bleed probably 30 bubbles or more out of my system. Bubbles came out of every corner.

And your pedal feel is better now ?
I was able to do the Forscan bleed, at first it seemed better (maybe placebo effect) but now the mushy & pedal travel is back, fluid level in MC is correct, i guess the old school bleed is next for me.

 

[AdamHarris]

And your pedal feel is better now ?
I was able to do the Forscan bleed, at first it seemed better (maybe placebo effect) but now the mushy & pedal travel is back, fluid level in MC is correct, i guess the old school bleed is next for me.

Yes much better after doing both bleeds.

 

[Car Guy Bill]

Hi Bill,

The plant evac and fill should not leave any air in the system at the RR wheel, It implies something is/was wrong. Wonder if it was caused by the dealer. Plant system has warnings if evac and fill was incomplete...

Best,
Phil

I agree but the breaks on the truck from when I drove it off the dealer lot with 12 miles on it have been bad. I took it in for the ABS bleed and that made it better for a short period of time and then took it back for a Full bleed and there was no difference. I then completed a manual bleed and the peddle is 80% better and gives you the correct braking feel for the pedal effort. The only wheel with air was the Right Rear. If it gets soft over time, then I agree there is something introducing air into the system.

When I picked up my truck at the dealer, they had a couple of other rangers I drove. The first one the breaks were so bad I did not even take it off the lot. The other was way better than the one I ordered and took delivery of. I have had over 100 new Fords in my life and have never had a break issue. The breaks on the Ranger are not adequate in my opinion but hopefully the new Ranger Raptor will have much better breaks.

 

[Car Guy Bill]

Update: It has been two weeks since I manually blead the breaks and all is good. My wife even said they are great you don't have to think about it you just drive. Before you always had it in the back of your mind that this thing does not stop good.

 

[Bsthroop]

Did this last night, had to clear multiple DTC's. Drove it today and brakes feel great. Had to move my seat back a bit due to the pedal not going so far down.

 

[Wytchdctr]

I did the forscan abs bleed and have had zero issues after doing that. Is the brake pedal a brick like in some cars? No. However, I find it far easier to modulate my braking with the pedal I have now.

I actually dislike the overboosted brakes now vs. what others run like my big Kia. It is not stopping you faster unless you have zero leg strength. It just seems like it because it wants to throw you into the windshield with any pressure beyond what your big toe can apply.

I would seriously think that those that tow would like the extra range this pedal gives... but maybe I am wrong.

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