Fab Fours ACC Relocation Bracket Installed

[tehschkott]

Sorry to hear that. Let me close the loop on this.

In the end I ditched the Raptor grille for something with a more even patterning. It helped immensely. You can see the ACC module dead center there. It still doesn't love corners, but I *think* it's getting better. I dunno. I'm told there's a menu item in Forscan to manually trigger recalibration. I haven't fired up Forscan yet but will soon. What I can say is, it was unusable with the Raptor grille, and removing the metal screws that held on the letters FORD didn't make a difference. That's all I can say with certainty. Believe me, I didn't want to replace my awesome $265 grille I liked with a $200 jobber I like less. If I could have made it work, I would have. Maybe if you could position it below the "R" in FORD, that would fix it. There is a way to do that but I lack the fabrication tools & space. Buying the below grille was cheaper/faster. c'est la vie.

I should start a different thread for this. I unintentionally hijacked this Fab Fours thread because it's the only decent thread talking about ACC relocation. I don't know that the Fab Fours bracket also produces this problem. Though I'd be surprised if it didn't.

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[Washingtonwarrior]

So I just removed the 2 screws holding part of the R and part of the D and used plastic weld over the blank spots where there were metal screws and it is SOLVED! You can even use plastic screws if you find some but it is working perfect . Also if you have a lifted ranger , you will need to tilt it slightly down . To accommodate .

 

[Washingtonwarrior]

So I just removed the 2 screws holding part of the R and part of the D and used plastic weld over the blank spots where there were metal screws and it is SOLVED! You can even use plastic screws if you find some but it is working perfect . Also if you have a lifted ranger , you will need to tilt it slightly down . To accommodate .

R

Nevermind ! Lol it was fine for a day then started doing it again. I’m going to get longer bolts that are 2 inches longer so it sits just below the R and the D . That’s the most open on that side . If this doesn’t work then I’ll move to option C which is I don’t know what the F to do lol

 

[Washingtonwarrior]

So far no problems, for the Ford raptor grill go get 3 inch 3/8 bolt , locking nuts with them and 6 1 inch spacers ! Works great so far !

 

[Washingtonwarrior]

Has anyone installed this relocation bracket along with a raptor grille? Assume it works but just curious if that causes any additional issues.

Go get a 3 inch bolt and 2 1 inch spacers per bolt. It is in the perfect place

 

[Bzmustang13]

Do the Raptor LED lights get in the way of this? I have the 4x white LED raptor lights for my stock Lariat grill. Wondering if this would block the ACC before committing $100 to the bracket.

 

[RangerRaptor]

Do the Raptor LED lights get in the way of this? I have the 4x white LED raptor lights for my stock Lariat grill. Wondering if this would block the ACC before committing $100 to the bracket.

I do not think they will be any issue.

 

[Seb1221]

hello do you have more pictures from your acc support because i will do the same. thanks in advance

 

[HoosierT]

hello do you have more pictures from your acc support because i will do the same. thanks in advance

What more pics do you need? There are a ton in this thread and mine from the first post shows the installation from the top where is actually screw to the beam of the truck.

 

[Seb1221]

What more pics do you need? There are a ton in this thread and mine from the first post shows the installation from the top where is actually screw to the beam of the truck.

if possible photos of the complete installation, the acc support and how you attached it to the fab four support

 

[Gr8Hortoni]

I was looking for this bracket, using the part number in the first post, it doesn’t show any pictures of the bracket, only the bumper that the relocation is for. Does anyone know if it’s been updated/incorporated into the bumper or is it still a stand alone, body mounted bracket?

 

[Racket]

Interesting that conceptually the ACC sensor has a range of positions where it will operate fine - that seems to be applicable across models. There is a realignment process involved and I'd like to know more about that. Mine acts up after a short period reliably. I thought initially it was an indication my battery had reached the end of it's life but four months on after replacing it while all the other idiosyncrasies resolved themselves the ACC is still not functioning as it should.

Shortly after I got my Ranger I installed the Putco lower valance screen with the ACC radar cutout and worked fine for at least a year.

I haven't found a thread that successfully resolves this.

 

[Lady Grey]

I realize this threat is ancient, but I wanted to share my solution anyway, just in case someone is still trying to make this work. My Ranger has the Raptor-style grille with the four LEDs, and after the hidden winch-mount installation and the subsequent ACC sensor relocation upwards using the FabFour bracket I ran into pretty much the same issues as described by many others, receiving "sensor blocked" faults at random intervals. After reviewing everybody's experiences and workarounds I had a hunch it wasn't the grille or the screws holding the letters that were causing this issue but the LEDs. I moved the FabFour bracket as far towards the center line of the vehicle as the hood latch assembly would allow, trimmed a little plastic from the tray below the bottom of where the sensor would sit, drilled some new holes to mount the bracket and was able to position the sensor between two LEDs. I was able to install the sensor with the protective cover in the front of it (required minor trimming off the cover part, plus two zip ties for extra stability.) This might not be necessary, but if the extra protection from rain, snow / ice build-up and road dirt makes the sensor live longer, then I'll take it. After all, there's a reason every vehicle has a cover protecting this sensor, even when it sits high up, as it does OEM in 4Runners). That sensor cannot be cheap to replace! I must have done an adequate job separating enough wiring from the original harness; I had enough length of wiring to reach this new, slightly farther out location without a problem and without having to resort to building a DIY wiring adapter. Just be sure to separate enough wiring at the beginning of your winch mount or off-road bumper project. After the first hundred miles I am happy to report that I have not gotten any faults yet, and shifting the sensor just a couple of inches towards center has also improved its accuracy compared to the prior relocation location. (Say that fast 5 times!).

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