Choose Your Own Adventure Book: Buying a Raptor

[EJH]

Or dogs. Don't forget the dogs.
That's what I use my back seats for.

Same here. It's the dog's seat

Good luck with the new Colorado!

I do like the new Ranger Raptors quite a lot. Ford has a supply problem, combined with most dealers adding a mark up. It is frustrating and puts a lot of folks off.

Sponsored

 

[OFC Ranger]

Kind of a side bar question for you guys.

So if I finance out right I am looking at going from 0% that I have now (ugh....) to at best around 7% either through dealership or even a regular institution. Unfortunately it is just the market right now and not anything that can be done with it regardless of my "well qualified buyer" status.

I had never considered it, but mulling it over, is there any reason I should just no go with a 36 month lease (sizable monthly payment reduction) to give the market time to improve. I can then move to a traditional finance loan at any point during that window once rates get better, or even if they remain the same I would still just buy-out end of term.

My down payment would remain the same either path chosen. I drive well below mile restrictions in a lease, and my down payment will eradicate the problem of the depreciation calculation for the price buyout being more than its worth in that time.

I really would not be worried about damage or modification penalties because the intent is to buy it out anyhow.

 

[Ronbo]

Kind of a side bar question for you guys.

So if I finance out right I am looking at going from 0% that I have now (ugh....) to at best around 7% either through dealership or even a regular institution. Unfortunately it is just the market right now and not anything that can be done with it regardless of my "well qualified buyer" status.

I had never considered it, but mulling it over, is there any reason I should just no go with a 36 month lease (sizable monthly payment reduction) to give the market time to improve. I can then move to a traditional finance loan at any point during that window once rates get better, or even if they remain the same I would still just buy-out end of term.

My down payment would remain the same either path chosen. I drive well below mile restrictions in a lease, and my down payment will eradicate the problem of the depreciation calculation for the price buyout being more than its worth in that time.

I really would not be worried about damage or modification penalties because the intent is to buy it out anyhow.

If I were in your shoes, I’d take a lease. The new ZR2 is a really good looking truck and it has some really impressive features, but given my past experience with GM products, and some of the reviews on the new Colorados, I’d be concerned about long term reliability and fit & finish issues. Been reading about the little annoyances that have been showing in the new Colorados, glitchy dashes, fit and finish, electronics, etc. Granted, there are many Colorado owners who are very happy with their trucks, but there are some uglies that are starting to show. Ranger was/is not without its own problems, as have other major manufacturers, Toyota, Jeep, Dodge, etc, but GM has always left me disappointed. I really want to like the Colorado, especially the ZR2, but I’m gonna wait a couple of years to see how this works out. Personally, I’d feel better with a lease. Just my opinion.

 

[OFC Ranger]

If I were in your shoes, I’d take a lease. The new ZR2 is a really good looking truck and it has some really impressive features, but given my past experience with GM products, and some of the reviews on the new Colorados, I’d be concerned about long term reliability and fit & finish issues. Been reading about the little annoyances that have been showing in the new Colorados, glitchy dashes, fit and finish, electronics, etc. Granted, there are many Colorado owners who are very happy with their trucks, but there are some uglies that are starting to show. Ranger was/is not without its own problems, as have other major manufacturers, Toyota, Jeep, Dodge, etc, but GM has always left me disappointed. I really want to like the Colorado, especially the ZR2, but I’m gonna wait a couple of years to see how this works out. Personally, I’d feel better with a lease. Just my opinion.

I learned long ago to try not to heed this stuff online. Much like our trucks, every 1 complaint or sensationalized YouTube video there are thousands of others with zero issues.

I am confident in the motor. It is a well established engine from the Silverado that been up-armored, much like the Ranger motors being in use long before the state side release in things like Mustangs.

I've seen everything you've spoken about, but they don't really raise red flags for me at all. Especially electronics. Lot easier to replace under warranty (or otherwise) than stuff like motors.

 

[Joeiconic]

I hate the idea of pushing debt forward. If you are that confident in long term ownership, just buy it.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I hate the idea of pushing debt forward. If you are that confident in long term ownership, just buy it.

In the end I would only finance a term no longer than the difference of 36 months minus what would have been original finance term. The large down payment would cover the residual value problem.

The point of the game is to save money, not get a lower initial payment.

Rates for autos (compared to past years) absolutely suck right now even for 800+ score people.

 

[Fordup]

With my experience with a new Silverado I would say a lease may be best also. I ignored all the online complaints I saw before making up my mind and found they were true for some. If you got a bad one GM doesn't care one bit about customers after the sale. New versions of old engines don't mean anything. The 6.2 was a good engine until chevy tried squeezing more mpg from it deactivating cylinders and then they started eating cams and lifters. Our local Chevy dealers will hire anyone off the street as a mechanic and their work quality reflects that. Be sure you have a good dealer nearby should issues arise. You could even give it a year before starting mods so you don't get screwed on the way out of a lease for mods if major issues arise. I think at this point any brand will be open to issues of some sort with all the next generations being released. From everything in the news interest rates will not be going down soon and student loan repayment starting up soon will affect the economy plus digital world currency could sink the dollar. Just wondering with a truck in as good a condition as yours modified heavily to your needs why all of a sudden is there such a rush to replace it.

 

[RedlandRanger]

Kind of a side bar question for you guys.

So if I finance out right I am looking at going from 0% that I have now (ugh....) to at best around 7% either through dealership or even a regular institution. Unfortunately it is just the market right now and not anything that can be done with it regardless of my "well qualified buyer" status.

I had never considered it, but mulling it over, is there any reason I should just no go with a 36 month lease (sizable monthly payment reduction) to give the market time to improve. I can then move to a traditional finance loan at any point during that window once rates get better, or even if they remain the same I would still just buy-out end of term.

My down payment would remain the same either path chosen. I drive well below mile restrictions in a lease, and my down payment will eradicate the problem of the depreciation calculation for the price buyout being more than its worth in that time.

I really would not be worried about damage or modification penalties because the intent is to buy it out anyhow.

One consideration on the lease (if you are putting down a substantial down payment) - one which I did not realize. Since you technically don't own the vehicle during the lease, if you were to total it, you'd lose whatever down payment you put down on it. The larger down payment does lower the lease payment but if you were to lose the vehicle, you'd lose that money. I got lucky in both of mine and did not lose anything but it is a risk.

My last 2 Rangers I used a lease as a way to extend the purchase period since I intended to keep them for quite a while. Last Ranger I had for 13 years - I'm on year 4+ on this Ranger.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I'm about to ask a nuclear war question. You thought inquiries about wheel spacers was a bunch of purse fighting? Well now lets move on to a actual official slap fighting competition level question; bolt pattern adapters. If I get them am I going to die?

The ZR2 is 6x120 and the only wheel choices out there are the mainstream Method / KMC choices, or a bunch of random brotruck designs.

I still love RTR Tech6 wheels. Looks like Bora makes a 6x120 to 6x138.7 adapter and if I get the 30+ offset version of the wheels this will get me to around 0+ offset all together. Kind of pricey at $300 - but I would be able to return to my beloved RTR design.

If you look at the front end design of the ZR2, no crash bars to contend with and its already lifted 3".

 

[Dr. Zaius]

Uh oh, you done did it...

Wheel spacers are fine if they are of a good quality and installed properly.

Bora seem to be of good quality.

Install the spacers and torque to spec using thread locker. Some use blue and some prefer red.

I don't drive much and I used blue on my Jeep.

If it was on my DD I'd probably use red, and since it's on a brake rotor I know heat won't hurt anything if I have to remove them.

Check the torque whenever you rotate the tires.

To check the torque, set your torque wrench to 5 ft/lbs below the torque spec.

This way you can be sure they're not loose and you won't disturb the thread locker.

I've had a set on my Jeep since I got it and they haven't budged.

 

[OFC Ranger]

Uh oh, you done did it...

Wheel spacers are fine if they are of a good quality and installed properly.

Bora seem to be of good quality.

Install the spacers and torque to spec using blue thread locker.

Check the torque whenever you rotate the tires.

To check the torque, set your torque wrench to 5 ft/lbs below the torque spec.

This way you can be sure they're not loose and you won't disturb the thread locker.

I've had a set on my Jeep since I got it and they haven't budged.

Oh come on you know I know that!

I actually ran 2" spacers on my ranger sport wheels till I got around to buying my 0+ RTR wheels.

The only real thing I see online that is universally a bad idea among everyone is going to a pattern that reduces total lug count, say 8 to 6, because now you are putting a vehicle weighted for 8 lugs and taking out two support points.

 

[OFC Ranger]

Actually I need to check my RTR wheels to see if they have recessed pockets between the lugs or this won't work anyhow.

 

[Dr. Zaius]

Are the studs on the Colorado long enough?

The factory studs on my Wrangler rear axle were too short for my adapters.

I could've put longer studs in but I replaced the axles with higher strength aftermarket axles that had longer studs.

My adapters are also 1.5" and with the factory studs the nut was a few mm higher than the top of the stud. Not good at all.

Now I have about 1/4" threads of the stud extending past the nut.

 

[OFC Ranger]

Are the studs on the Colorado long enough?

The factory studs on my Wrangler rear axle were too short for my adapters.

I could've put longer studs in but I replaced the axles with higher strength aftermarket axles that had longer studs.

My adapters are also 1.5" and with the factory studs the nut was a few mm higher than the top of the stud. Not good at all.

Now I have about 1/4" threads of the stud extending past the nut.

I won't know until I try.

Regarding the factory studs sticking out (or the attached nuts) above level with the adapter, if a wheel has recessed pockets, then you are good to go. If not you either don't do it, or take more drastic measures.

 

[Dr. Zaius]

I won't know until I try.

Regarding the factory studs sticking out (or the attached nuts) above level with the adapter, if a wheel has recessed pockets, then you are good to go. If not you either don't do it, or take more drastic measures.

With a 1.5" adapter I don't think you'll have to worry about the studs sticking up too far.

Sponsored