Buyer beware

[tgRanger]

@moorejl57 - I guess my memory is faulty, imagine that, because it looks like the official ValvoMax packaging is also a blister pack, but different. I went looking on google just to see if by chance I could find a photo of the unit I was sent and I did! On ebay!

FAKE UNIT:

REAL UNIT:

I’m not doubting you got a counterfeit one and I’d be hesitant to buy from eBay myself. But what I noticed is Valvomax must have changed their packaging over the years. They also have a metal version and plastic version. Here’s a similar picture of the one I purchased directly from them around four years or so ago. Also if you go to Valvomax’s site and scroll almost to the bottom you’ll see a YouTube video Scotty Kilmer made six years ago and his had the similar packaging of the one you say is counterfeit. Moral of the story is just buy direct from the company whenever possible to be sure.

https://www.valvomax.com/

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[moorejl57]

I’m not doubting you got a counterfeit one and I’d be hesitant to buy from eBay myself. But what I noticed is Valvomax must have changed their packaging over the years. They also have a metal version and plastic version. Here’s a similar picture of the one I purchased directly from them around four years or so ago. Also if you go to Valvomax’s site and scroll almost to the bottom you’ll see a YouTube video Scotty Kilmer made six years ago and his had the similar packaging of the one you say is counterfeit. Moral of the story is just buy direct from the company whenever possible to be sure.

https://www.valvomax.com/

This is how mine was packaged as well. So far it is working great. I keep the tube in a ziplock bag in my Swing Case.

 

[tgRanger]

This is how mine was packaged as well. So far it is working great. I keep the tube in a ziplock bag in my Swing Case.

I keep mine in a ziplock and store it under my back seat compartment. On my Mustang and F150 I have the Fumoto but for the Ranger I absolutely love the Valvomax. I don’t have to remove the skid plate and I drain it right into a two gallon gas can.

 

[Jason B]

Hmm. I got over 67000 on my plugs. I was under the impression that they were good for 100K

I was thinking the same thing. Plugs good for 100K. Then I remember the water in #4 plug well issue and think maybe I better pull them now at 50K. From my understanding, Ford won't warranty the engine if plugs can't be removed if frozen due to water intrusion, even though they know about the water issue.

 

[shovelhd]

I had a 99 f150 with a leaky radiator. I got on rock Auto and ordered up a radiator for a ford f150 1999 model
Week later I get this huge beat up box.
In it was a radiator for a 1999 International over the road truck (semi) and it was beat to hell and damaged. so even I got it to fit it was still torn up.

Returning it was a huge pain in the ass. RA admitted the order was wrong but wanted me to pay to return it. They finally sent a label for it.

Local Napa got me the right one the next day after I went and ordered it.

I also had a similar issue with Rock Auto a few years back. They sent me a part that was not what I ordered. They insisted that I was wrong and would not send a return label. I escalated it up the chain to the point where someone actually looked at my pictures and researched the issue (the supplier made the mistake, not Rock Auto). They told me to toss the part, issued a refund, and sent me a more expensive part to replace what I ordered. I shouldn't have had to escalate it, though.

 

[Langwilliams]

Is buildup on spark plugs still a problem on eco boost engines? Seems I saw where people that waited the 100K to change the plugs had problems with buildup on them an they would break when trying to remove them from binding.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I never buy plugs or sensors off Amazon or eBay. Chances of a counterfeit are high.

 

[Techcargt]

One way to check the spark plugs to see if they are counterfeit,is to check with an ohm meter. You check from the top to the center electrode, check them all and they should read very close to the same reading, which most times is around 4-4.5 ohms . I check ALL spark plugs I install no mater where they come from because they can sneak into a lot of parts distribution centers.

 

[Jason B]

Is buildup on spark plugs still a problem on eco boost engines? Seems I saw where people that waited the 100K to change the plugs had problems with buildup on them an they would break when trying to remove them from binding.

I don't think we have a two-piece plug, Ford thankfully did away with those. They were used on the 5.4 Tritons and had a tendency to break, dropping the electrode end into the cylinder.
Some 5G have problem with removing #4 plug because of corrosion caused by water in the plug well caused by a poorly designed cowl.

 

[airline tech]

I don't think we have a two-piece plug, Ford thankfully did away with those. They were used on the 5.4 Tritons and had a tendency to break, dropping the electrode end into the cylinder.
Some 5G have problem with removing #4 plug because of corrosion caused by water in the plug well caused by a poorly designed cowl.

Yes, and the water sitting in the wells, leads to this if you are not careful removing them.
Baby step them out and do not just exert all force trying to remove them or you could possibly experience this.
This is why some have had to replace the head as the techs could not get the plugs out, if you are lucky, you could get them out via (Easy-Out)

Do some prep before you attempt removal, soak with Kroil (My Preference), blow out with blow gun then use Brake Clean and blow out again - Reinstall the COP and get the engine WARM not hot. Then lightly soak the well again with Kroil, just enough to coat the threads as you back it out and turn back in - you need to wet the threads, this helps break up the corrosion on the threads.
Then use the Baby Step method to remove the plug, (1/4 turn CCW - 1/4 Turn CW)- (1/2 Turn CCW - 1/2 Turn CW) - continue this method advancing 1/4 turn each step.

 

[5thranger]

I also had a similar issue with Rock Auto a few years back. They sent me a part that was not what I ordered. They insisted that I was wrong and would not send a return label. I escalated it up the chain to the point where someone actually looked at my pictures and researched the issue (the supplier made the mistake, not Rock Auto). They told me to toss the part, issued a refund, and sent me a more expensive part to replace what I ordered. I shouldn't have had to escalate it, though.

I did as well. Ordered brake calipers from Rock Auto ordered what they showed for my vehicle and received calipers that were wrong. It was painfully difficult to get anything done about it. I can only relate it to trying to eat my mother in laws cooking.

 

[Jason B]

Yes, and the water sitting in the wells, leads to this if you are not careful removing them.
Baby step them out and do not just exert all force trying to remove them or you could possibly experience this.
This is why some have had to replace the head as the techs could not get the plugs out, if you are lucky, you could get them out via (Easy-Out)

Do some prep before you attempt removal, soak with Kroil (My Preference), blow out with blow gun then use Brake Clean and blow out again - Reinstall the COP and get the engine WARM not hot. Then lightly soak the well again with Kroil, just enough to coat the threads as you back it out and turn back in - you need to wet the threads, this helps break up the corrosion on the threads.
Then use the Baby Step method to remove the plug, (1/4 turn CCW - 1/4 Turn CW)- (1/2 Turn CCW - 1/2 Turn CW) - continue this method advancing 1/4 turn each step.

So, you saying our plugs can separate as in the photos?

Thanks, for the info on the process to remove a frozen plug.
I have no problems my plugs (yet).
One of two things are going to happen soon with my '21 @ 51K miles.
1. Change plugs before seizure and add a dab of anti-seize.
2. Trade in my truck for a '24 model.

 

[airline tech]

So, you saying our plugs can separate as in the photos?

Thanks, for the info on the process to remove a frozen plug.
I have no problems my plugs (yet).
One of two things are going to happen soon with my '21 @ 51K miles.
1. Change plugs before seizure and add a dab of anti-seize.
2. Trade in my truck for a '24 model.

Yes, the pics are from a member of this forum who had a broken / stuck plug issue, caused by the water in the wells on his Ranger.
So, the corrosion weakens the integrity of the base and what seeps down into the threads only increases the torque required to remove them (dirty threads).

By using the Baby Step method, It MAY help in a successful removal without the need of alternate methods and hopefully the base will hold strong enough to allow removal as the goal is to get them out with the least resistance possible.

On a good clean plug, once you have it loosened you should be able to remove by hand with the extension with some slight resistance when you reach the end of the plug (carbon build-up) exposed in the cylinder

On a plug with dirty threads, the corrosion builds up in the threads as you are removing them, and it will seize up, this is where one would attempt to use more force on the ratchet and with the weakened base - it just snaps off

 

[Langwilliams]

Yes, the pics are from a member of this forum who had a broken / stuck plug issue, caused by the water in the wells on his Ranger.

So it's from water in the spark plug well NOT carbon build up on the plugs. Thanks for the info. If it were carbon I'd probably change then sooner. I'm now know for keeping vehicles for an extensive time. Four to five years is more common for me. I will probably swap them at 50-60K if I get that far on the Bronco

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