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Brake controller responds differently after trailer bearing repack

rondowe

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I've been towing my 19' travel trailer for over a year in my 2019 Ranger XLT with the Ford trailer brake controller working nicely at setting 4. My trailer just got it's first wheel bearing repack and when pulling out I pushed the TBC button to check the brakes and didn't notice the usual drag. The tech and I checked the brakes by jacking up the trailer and confirmed the button did activate the brakes and stop a spinning wheel. Increasing the setting to 8 helped. Everything felt normal on the drive home at setting 8 and the TBC shows the usual blue color turning red proportional to brake pedal pressure. Anything else I should check? Is the TBC recalibrating? Other thoughts?
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Grumpaw

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The only item I can think of is that whoever repacked the bearings got some grease on the drum's/shoes.
Applying the brakes would still slow the spinning tire/wheel when lifted off the ground, but would most likely slip a bit when being towed and brakes applied.
Not fimilar with the Ford brake system as I have a Tekonsha, and if I had to adjust it from a low setting to a high setting, I would suspect the shoes not grabbing properly.
Have to ask...how was the re-pack done ? If done with one of the units that replaces the cap, where grease is shot into the bearing cup, if not done properly, it's very easy to over fill the bearing cup, forcing grease out of the seal, onto the brake assembly.
 
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rondowe

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That seems very plausible. I should have thought of that. Thank you, Grumpaw. I'll inspect the brakes and look for oozing grease. I don't know how the repack was done. I may be speaking with the shop soon.
 
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rondowe

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I spoke with the shop and was told that grease on the pads would smoke and cause them to grab harder. Is that reasonable or just dealer-speak for something unprintable? He suggested the pads could be aligned a bit differently after reassembling everything and may need some time to settle in. Only symptom so far is the much higher setting of the trailer brake controller. It looks like accessing or inspecting the brakes to check for grease requires removing the wheels.
 


subquark

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Grease on the pads would cause them to grab harder???? ???
Hmm, seems counter intuitive.

But I know that on my Land Cruiser, front knuckle ball joint grease does swell the drum brake material. They sure don't stop better but they make it impossible to put the drums back on. It's an on-going thing, if not grease then leaking slave cylinders and swelling.

But no grabbing ... color me intrigued on this greasy grabbing oddness!

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rondowe

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I haven't found anything to support the grabbing harder thing but am also checking with the trailer manufacturer. It could just be dealer-speak for something I can't print here. Everything indicates the trailer brake controller is working fine which was my original reason for posting here.
 

Jimmy07

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Brake controllers work by varying the voltage to the magnet when applying brakes. So when I repacked by own wheel bearings a few years back and the brakes didn't grab the same afterwards. After much cussing, it turned out to be loose connection at one wire nut splice.
 

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I have the Ford Redarc for my 19’ trailer. If I had to turn it up much before lockup, I’d be checking things starting with adjustment as many trailer brakes are not self adjusting. My Redarc does seem to require more adjusting than the Prodigy 3, but 4 to 8 is a big difference. Checking shoes for grease would be a good step.
 

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I wonder if the self adjusting brake shoes need a few more pumps before they settle in? Generally you have to back them off to take the drum off, so maybe the shop didn't bust out the brake spoon and dial them in?
 

ctechbob

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I wonder if the self adjusting brake shoes need a few more pumps before they settle in? Generally you have to back them off to take the drum off, so maybe the shop didn't bust out the brake spoon and dial them in?
I'm thinking this.

They backed off the shoes to get the drum off and didn't re-adjust them.

They may or may not self adjust. I've found over the years that drum brake adjusters are a crap shoot whether they work or not, even when they're brand new.
 

chaps

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I bet ctechbob is correct. I tow a 14' teardrop camper and service it myself, bearings and brakes. I have to back off the brakes to get the drum off, which they had to do to repack bearings. When reinstalled, I "tighten" the brakes until the drum rubs, then back off 1 or 2 clicks.
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-adjust-drum-brakes-by-spencer-clayton
explains it ok. There is a window on the back of the hub to get at the adjuster wheel. Be sure you know how to safely jack your trailer... mine says do NOT jack the seemingly solid axle.
 

dtech

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I'm thinking this.

They backed off the shoes to get the drum off and didn't re-adjust them.

They may or may not self adjust. I've found over the years that drum brake adjusters are a crap shoot whether they work or not, even when they're brand new.
IIRC and been many years but self adjusting drum brakes used to work when backing and applying the brakes - but for the initial adjustment you would use a screwdriver or adjusting tool until a slight drag is felt, but this implies having the wheel off the ground, if you don't do this then backing up repeatedly and applying the brakes should make the adjuster work but doing this with a travel trailer might be a tad unwieldly.
 

ctechbob

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IIRC and been many years but self adjusting drum brakes used to work when backing and applying the brakes - but for the initial adjustment you would use a screwdriver or adjusting tool until a slight drag is felt, but this implies having the wheel off the ground, if you don't do this then backing up repeatedly and applying the brakes should make the adjuster work but doing this with a travel trailer might be a tad unwieldly.

In theory that's how they work, but there's plenty of times they just don't work properly. Always best to start with just a tiny bit of drag, then you know they're in just the right spot.
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