Borne Off-Road Snorkel R&D Thread

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RoadBoss

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Great question!

You will need to drill mounting holes for the support bracket, and we'll provide hardware to give you the option of using rivnuts or rivets to secure the bracket to the A-pillar

-Nick
hmm, any possibility of being able to use a heavy duty double sided tape instead of drilling?
I'll probably be buying either way, but it'd be nicer not having to drill a hole in the outside of my truck :whew:
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hmm, any possibility of being able to use a heavy duty double sided tape instead of drilling?
I'll probably be buying either way, but it'd be nicer not having to drill a hole in the outside of my truck :whew:
Technically you will have to drill the fender on the outside even with this. Why you ask? Well there are going to be mounting points at the fender vent and that will require a feq holes to be drilled out
 

RoadBoss

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Technically you will have to drill the fender on the outside even with this. Why you ask? Well there are going to be mounting points at the fender vent and that will require a feq holes to be drilled out
Well I didn't ask why. but drilling an easily replaceable fender is a little different than drilling into the A-pillar. plus the fender holes will be behind where the stock plastic vent sits anyway.
 
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Hey Guys!

Just wanted to bump this thread up with another update, and finally show you this snorkel kit in the flesh! Make sure that you head over to the Engineering Blog for the full scoop


HIGHER PLANE – 2019+ FORD RANGER 2.3L SNORKEL R&D, PART 3 – PRODUCTION SAMPLE



NLT_9623-Edit-scaled.jpg


Before we take a look at the snorkel on the truck, though, let’s look at the kit itself and what makes it tough enough to wear the Bourne Off-Road badge, starting with the construction material.

No matter how rugged or paved the trail is, damaged components or losing them all together is less than ideal. However, there still is a delicate balance between strength and weight. Designing a kit that’s too heavy might mean damaging those precious body panels we worked so hard to preserve. So, we opted for using super tough cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE) for that lightweight brawn in the snorkel and connection tube. We also sprinkled in some strong steel and silicone for secure connection throughout the system.
-Nick
 


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Mishimoto

Mishimoto

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hmm, any possibility of being able to use a heavy-duty double-sided tape instead of drilling?
I'll probably be buying either way, but it'd be nicer not having to drill a hole in the outside of my truck :whew:

Totally understandable! Our goal was to make the install of this kit as minimally invasive as we could, especially when it comes to drilling or cutting into the truck, but we deemed some permanent modification was needed to make sure this snorkel is sturdy enough for the wilderness, highway speeds, and even the car wash after hitting the trail.

We have experimented with using heavy-duty adhesives and foam block for the A-pillar support, but they, unfortunately, didn't last too long on our test rig. So, we ultimately opted for a small bracket up there instead. Here's a close up look at the A-pillar bracket location:

NLT_5173-scaled.jpg


-Nick
 
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RoadBoss

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Totally understandable! Our goal was to make the install of this kit as minimally invasive as we could, especially when it comes to drilling or cutting into the truck, but we deemed some permanent modification was needed to make sure this snorkel is sturdy enough for the wilderness, highway speeds, and even the car wash after hitting the trail.

We have experimented with using heavy-duty adhesives and foam block for the A-pillar support, but they, unfortunately, didn't last too long on our test rig. So, we ultimately optded for a small racked up there instead. Here's a close up look at the A-pillar bracket location:

NLT_5173-scaled.jpg


-Nick
That's great actually, I love that you tucked it inside the door jamb area. That feels way better than drilling straight into the front/outside of the A-pillar.
 
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That's great actually, I love that you tucked it inside the door jamb area. That feels way better than drilling straight into the front/outside of the A-pillar.
Yep! That's exactly what we were aiming for! We also made sureto double check that this location wouldn't mean accidentally drilling through some side-curtain airbags as well

-Nick
 

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I wonder if I could rig a metal bracket in my particular case to my over the cabin rack and instead drill the two holes on the outside of the snorkel to connect it. Then again that probably may be a bad idea due to flex. I'd have to come up with some sort of bracket that is rigid, but the ability move slightly, but not crack the snorkel if there was a sudden shift in inertia for whatever reason. Like a mini shock. Maybe a gas strut like I use on my pod doors.

hmm...

(disregard wrong side, for illustrative purposes only)

IMG_20210511_181640.jpg
 

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I wonder if I could rig a metal bracket in my particular case to my over the cabin rack and instead drill the two holes on the outside of the snorkel to connect it. Then again that probably may be a bad idea due to flex. I'd have to come up with some sort of bracket that is rigid, but the ability move slightly, but not crack the snorkel if there was a sudden shift in inertia for whatever reason. Like a mini shock. Maybe a gas strut like I use on my pod doors.

hmm...

(disregard wrong side, for illustrative purposes only)

IMG_20210511_181640.jpg
I like this idea, maybe something similar for those running something like a Prinsu roof rack too. Then again I believe that specific rack requires expanding existing whole anyways.. so maybe not the best example.
 

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I like this idea, maybe something similar for those running something like a Prinsu roof rack too. Then again I believe that specific rack requires expanding existing whole anyways.. so maybe not the best example.
Perhaps I could do a double rotating/swivel bolt/ball joint. Think something like a seesaw, but instead of a middle point of balance, each end would be its own balance. I'm not worried about forward and backward intertia. I'd be more concerned with side to side and vertical flex.

The trick would be figuring out the tension where in a resting state its slightly pulling for rigid support, but the ability to shift a little more if required.

Kind of like the roof leg supports on my rack. The tension is set so it cannot physically move upwards, but with thick flexible rubber feet to "absorb" compressing movements up and down on the roof channels.
 

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Hey Guys!

Just wanted to bump this thread up with another update, and finally show you this snorkel kit in the flesh! Make sure that you head over to the Engineering Blog for the full scoop

HIGHER PLANE – 2019+ FORD RANGER 2.3L SNORKEL R&D, PART 3 – PRODUCTION SAMPLE


NLT_9623-Edit-scaled.jpg




-Nick
Hey Nick,

Been following this thread and the engineers blog forever on this snorkel. Super excited to get mine in the presale but I noticed no one has mentioned anything about capping the original airbox inlet? how is that blocked off?

Thanks man,

Jason
2019 ford Ranger XLt
Mishimoto cooled and sponsored
 
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Mishimoto

Mishimoto

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I wonder if I could rig a metal bracket in my particular case to my over the cabin rack and instead drill the two holes on the outside of the snorkel to connect it. Then again that probably may be a bad idea due to flex. I'd have to come up with some sort of bracket that is rigid, but the ability move slightly, but not crack the snorkel if there was a sudden shift in inertia for whatever reason. Like a mini shock. Maybe a gas strut like I use on my pod doors.

hmm...

(disregard wrong side, for illustrative purposes only)

IMG_20210511_181640.jpg
I love where your head's at! We'd definitely like to see what you come up with!

Hey Nick,

Been following this thread and the engineers blog forever on this snorkel. Super excited to get mine in the presale but I noticed no one has mentioned anything about capping the original airbox inlet? how is that blocked off?

Thanks man,

Jason
2019 ford Ranger XLt
Mishimoto cooled and sponsored
That is a GREAT question and apologies on not including that on the latest blog update. I'm going to make some revisions and I'll also post up some photos of our design for that aspect as well!

-Nick
 

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I love where your head's at! We'd definitely like to see what you come up with!



That is a GREAT question and apologies on not including that on the latest blog update. I'm going to make some revisions and I'll also post up some photos of our design for that aspect as well!

-Nick
Really it could be as simple as a spring joint. The ultimate question no matter any idea that comes up is how thick of a polymer style mold is the snorkel or rather how thick is it sidewall? Could it ideally withstand micro-movements up to some millimeters without eventually stress fracturing the mold which would then ultimately lead to a catastrophic failure.

Which begs the next question can replacement parts be purchased IE just the top snorkel portion? LoL

c0b7e4d4-ea74-4c63-9e38-e94bf6a86fb7.fd23c26737dbc12528541e9db19146ef.jpeg
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