Boomba Racing Ford Ranger Stage 2 Catch Can Kits!

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quangdog

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I'm on the fence about a catch can. My truck is just over 26k miles at the moment. At 30k miles I'm planning to do an intake clean with some chemical solutions. I'll use my borescope to try to inspect before/after of the back of the valves with that cleaning. If the valves have a lot of build-up at 30k miles, that will likely sway me to go ahead and get a catch can. If they are relatively clean (or come pretty clean with a simple intake cleaning treatment), then it'll be pretty hard to convince me to spend over $300 on a solution that can easily be taken care of with an intake cleaning every 15-30k miles.
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Hey guys, this is one of our test vehicles for one of our catch can setups installed with about 4k miles on it. As you can see there is a TON of blow by (moisture/gas) which ends up bypassing the PCV system and gets thrown back into the engine. A catch can will help clean keep the engine significantly cleaner and the valves from being caked with unburned fuel.

tundra catch can.jpg
 
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Boomba Racing

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Is there a difference between Stage 1 and 2?

I like the dipstick feature and it looks like the 'can' itself has to be unscrewed to empty?

For those complaining about cost - compared to my blinged-out UPR with billet check valves, drain line/valve and WOT vacuum line option the Boomba Stage 2 is still about $150 less.
Stage 1 is the low pressure CCV (Crank Case Ventilation) side which is plugged into your intake.

Stage 2 is the high pressure PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) side which is plugged into your Intake Manifold/Top of your engine.

If you're just interested in purchasing one we would highly recommend the stage 2 as it will collect most of the deposits.

The catch can easily unscrews to empty the content.
 
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I'm on the fence about a catch can. My truck is just over 26k miles at the moment. At 30k miles I'm planning to do an intake clean with some chemical solutions. I'll use my borescope to try to inspect before/after of the back of the valves with that cleaning. If the valves have a lot of build-up at 30k miles, that will likely sway me to go ahead and get a catch can. If they are relatively clean (or come pretty clean with a simple intake cleaning treatment), then it'll be pretty hard to convince me to spend over $300 on a solution that can easily be taken care of with an intake cleaning every 15-30k miles.
Boomba has an intake manifold spacer - which by itself may offer some changes in driving experience - has what appears unique tapped ports for (I presume) some type of injection. I'd be curious how to build a complementary system to clean with.
 

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So if we want to cover both the CCV side and the PCV side, do we need to purchase both kits?
 

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So if we want to cover both the CCV side and the PCV side, do we need to purchase both kits?
Yes you would need both kits to cover both sides. However if you're interest in just one than you definitely want to get the stage 2 as it will collect most of the blow by the 2.3 ecoboost produces and in our experience these engines have a ton of blow by.
 
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Boomba has an intake manifold spacer - which by itself may offer some changes in driving experience - has what appears unique tapped ports for (I presume) some type of injection. I'd be curious how to build a complementary system to clean with.
The NPT ports are offered as point where someone could run Aux fueling/injection as an addition. They do not have to be used and will not leak if the plugs are not removed.
 

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Yes you would need both kits to cover both sides. However if you're interest in just one than you definitely want to get the stage 2 as it will collect most of the blow by the 2.3 ecoboost produces and in our experience these engines have a ton of blow by.
I think I am confused on where Stage 2 collects from.
 
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I think I am confused on where Stage 2 collects from.
The stage 2 is collecting what the stock PCV system cannot contain and lets it bypass to recirculate back into the engine. The stage 2 catch can kit plums into a vacuum hose going from the Intake Manifold into the block, that is why that hose is spliced.
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