DonS
Active Member
This is from engine built 8-30-23, it does not lokk any different than the 2020 model to me, Think i will do the same and switch yo the escape tensioner .
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I will say the escape one is on my list. Regardless of only impacting 2020s so far. Its a bad place to mount it. And at 130k I am probably due some replacement pulleys either way.You my man, have an excellent sense of humor! It's very funny,
Except for those of us unfortunate enough to have purchased a 2020!! For the first time, I actually have found something that I wished they had deleted!
I think the solution lthom found will work out fine.![]()
This is a picture of my 2020 tensioner mounting point (top) to yours (Bottom).This is from engine built 8-30-23, it does not look any different than the 2020 model to me, Think i will do the same and switch to the escape tensioner .
They are certainly different, and maybe not just where you circled. The two re-enforced ridges on the top bung appear to be taller than on my 2020 as well. Take a look at the fault lines in the 3 images below. The top 2 appear to be like my 2020.Ok. We may have found something about the cover differences. Here’s my 03/22 build. It has the elongated hole. But not the difference in the lower mounting boss area. Different design??
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Yes, they look beefed up too. I’m betting the fracture starts at the bottom mount areaThey are certainly different, and maybe not just where you circled. The two re-enforced ridges on the top bung appear to be taller than on my 2020 as well. Take a look at the fault lines in the 3 images below. The top 2 appear to be like my 2020.
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But this one looks different, Maybe I'm just seeing more of the timing cover the tensioner missing.
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How far did you grind (not how deep) to get full motion? I have not looked at my original closely yet, but I'm going to investigate to see if bearing replacement is possible.Ran mine this week after grinding clearance to obtain full spring tension. Did fine , no issues. But I have to bring my truck in next week for the HPFP replacement under warranty. That process involves removing the intake manifold which is too close to the tensioner area. So I swapped the original back on because don’t need to give them any reason to raise a red flag. I did notice that the original pulley was noticeably more loose than the new one with 26K on it.
See picture. I also ground a bit off the backside of the stop because I felt it was a bit too close ( my bit was sketchy so pardon the workmanship). It makes the belt change much easier for sure. I would love to know why they did what they did.How far did you grind (not how deep) to get full motion? I have not looked at my original closely yet, but I'm going to investigate to see if bearing replacement is possible.
I did not grind to achieve full range as I liked the idea of the part staying bound at the upper limit to allow it to stay in place while changing the belt. I doubt the tensioner will ever reach that extreme limit unless a different length belt is used.
What I also like about the new tensioner (besides the obvious) is the location of the manual tension block used to take the belt off, It is much easier to access being on the top of the tensioner.
It's almost like Ford regressed the tensioner design.
I thought about that but you would need two different ID washers because off the top mount using a pilot sleeve. Then I felt that washer thickness you would need might eat up too much of the pilot sleeve space. But maybe it would be okay? I just didn’t want to mess with it.I would try a couple of washers under the mounting studs to space it away from the engine front cover. It doesn't look like it would take much to clear it.