Aftermarket subwoofer

[BigIron]

Box: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Accessories/Sub-Enclosures-and-Grilles/UD-SW100T

Sub: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Shallow+Mount/TS-SW2502S4

Amp: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8704

That amp pairs up nicely with the sub with channel B bridged to 300w to match the sub rating. You then also have channel A left to power some nice components up front if you decide to replace stock speakers.

Hey there, love the set up… Thinking I will probably do something similar. I can’t seem to find it anywhere so was hoping you could tell me. When you connected the amp to the factory head unit, were you able to bypass the power to go straight to your amp? Or did you have to basically boost the dirty power of the factory head unit? Just wondering before I tear end of this thing. Hopefully that question makes sense, I’m kind of an amateur when it comes to audio for cars

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[Rangerous]

Hey there, love the set up… Thinking I will probably do something similar. I can’t seem to find it anywhere so was hoping you could tell me. When you connected the amp to the factory head unit, were you able to bypass the power to go straight to your amp? Or did you have to basically boost the dirty power of the factory head unit? Just wondering before I tear end of this thing. Hopefully that question makes sense, I’m kind of an amateur when it comes to audio for cars

There are no preamp outputs on the stock stereo, so i had to use the high level inputs on this particular amp to feed signal, so yeah its technically dirty signal. note that i had to use a good line driver as a noise filter to remove static at high volumes (it was a Memphis audio converter but i dont remember the specific model). For power that comes straight from the battery.

 

[BigIron]

There are no preamp outputs on the stock stereo, so i had to use the high level inputs on this particular amp to feed signal, so yeah its technically dirty signal. note that i had to use a good line driver as a noise filter to remove static at high volumes (it was a Memphis audio converter but i dont remember the specific model). For power that comes straight from the battery.

Thanks Rangerous! Appreciate it. i imagine in these new cars the head units push out some pretty good signal especially with the noise filtering. We’ll probably give it a go!

 

[CJPAGEY81]

Yes. 10 inch shallow mount pioneer sub is all i was able to fit using a shallow wedge box also built by pioneer. Some carpeting had to be cut behind the box. See below.

Hey Rangerous?? what was the cost of your new setup??

 

[Moose8994]

I don't think there's enough air space for a 8w6. I almost went the route of a custom install in that cubby space, but the budget would've been 6 times what I paid for my JL Audio 8" micro sub behind my seat. model #CP108LG-W3v3

Can you close your seat with this box behind it?

 

[Robisten8]

Can you close your seat with this box behind it?

Yes

 

[CFLRANGER]

Yes, swapped out the front speakers for some Polk DB+ 5.25 components. However I regret going with 5.25s since 6.5s would have fit as well.



Running off the standard sync3 system and tapping into the front speakers for a hi-level signal. Currently dealing with some very faint alternator whine noise coming from the speakers, probably a bad ground.

I turned off all dsp and sound-altering features for the install, including driver mode and compensation for road noise. When tuning an amp for max output and no clipping the last thing you want is the head unit messing with the signal. You want it as flat and unadultered as possible.

Currently running SA8 in a Tru-Spec box. Fit nice and snug between rear seats. Installed Polk DB+ 6502s in the front doors and 652s in the rear doors. Produces a nice deep and rich sound with plenty of power. 1200.1 Skar for sub and 900.4 stetsom for the doors. All are running off stock head unit.

 

[Jhbryaniv]

Currently running SA8 in a Tru-Spec box. Fit nice and snug between rear seats. Installed Polk DB+ 6502s in the front doors and 652s in the rear doors. Produces a nice deep and rich sound with plenty of power. 1200.1 Skar for sub and 900.4 stetsom for the doors. All are running off stock head unit.

Did the tweeters fit in the upper door, or did you surface mount them?

 

[CFLRANGER]

Did the tweeters fit in the upper door, or did you surface mount them?

I actually left the Alpine type R tweeters I was running. They are a perfect fit.

 

[CFLRANGER]

I actually left the Alpine type R tweeters I was running. They are a perfect fit.

Don't see why polks wouldn't fit. Appear ro be same size.

 

[Stephen.walz]

There are no preamp outputs on the stock stereo, so i had to use the high level inputs on this particular amp to feed signal, so yeah its technically dirty signal. note that i had to use a good line driver as a noise filter to remove static at high volumes (it was a Memphis audio converter but i dont remember the specific model). For power that comes straight from the battery.

So I'm still confused after many different failed attempts... where are y'all tapping into the sound system? I seem to be getting engine sounds no matter where I pull from.

 

[Dr3wDrop]

So I'm still confused after many different failed attempts... where are y'all tapping into the sound system? I seem to be getting engine sounds no matter where I pull from.

Have you tried Forscan to remove the fake engine noise?

 

[Jhbryaniv]

Have you tried Forscan to remove the fake engine noise?

I wonder if it is the fake noise they were talking about, or noise in general . . .

 

[Stephen.walz]

Have you tried Forscan to remove the fake engine noise?

No, if there is a clear way to tap into the sound system without using forscan that was what I was going to do, but sounds like I will end up using forscan anyways. Time to purchace the OBD cord. :'(

 

[Jsmitty0024]

Skip the cord if go BT

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