ctechbob
Well-Known Member
If you do it, report back any results. So far I think I am the only on here who is doing it and I am genuinely curious as to other people's results.How many ounces are needed in our transmissions?10 or 15?
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If you do it, report back any results. So far I think I am the only on here who is doing it and I am genuinely curious as to other people's results.How many ounces are needed in our transmissions?10 or 15?
How would you compare it to pre and post valve body repair? Maybe using a scale of 0-10 with 0 being no difference and 10 being night and day difference.Update - It's now been a couple of months since I got my truck back from the CDF repair (which was done a few months after the valve body) and it's MUCH MUCH better. I've noticed just a couple of quirky shifts since....literally just a couple - around 45 mph....which I'm now ok attributing to the 10 spd. So after 2 repairs and about 40k miles, I think it's finally operating as intended.
I'm DEFINITELY content with it now and feel the issues are resolved. Next up = Ford Performance Tune. It's time. Next oil change.
However, and even through this thread is now 17 pages, here's a reminder!!!
Your truck should not shudder, shake, slam into gear, hesitate or make hard shifts. If you have a doubt, get it checked out (by a Ford tech - ask if they have trans specialists) before your warranty expires!! It's not NORMAL!
Is there more trouble with the 2WD Trans NB3Z-7000-B or the 4WD KB3Z-7000-B Trans? Or both the same issues?So it's my understanding that there are two versions of the 10R80 that get installed on the Rangers, as evidenced in some of the recent comments on this thread. The NB3Z-7000-B is for 2WD models whereas the KB3Z-7000-B is for 4WD models.
SameIs there more trouble with the 2WD Trans NB3Z-7000-B or the 4WD KB3Z-7000-B Trans? Or both the same issues?
For me specifically, the valve body (I had a valve sticking and my pressure was low) "overhaul" corrected an issue where it would occasionally hesitate when I first accelerated in D. It would do that occasionally, but regularly. That went away. I also had some super hard shifts from P to D....they were legit slams into gear...that also went away with the valve body. The valve body also seemed to correct a lot of the jumping and bucking it would do - sometimes - when first driving off.How would you compare it to pre and post valve body repair? Maybe using a scale of 0-10 with 0 being no difference and 10 being night and day difference.
I’ve had the flash done and then it went back and they just finished the valve body replacement. I won’t get to drive it until the first week of April when we get back home .but I doubt it. Mine is same vintage as yours with 16K on it.For me specifically, the valve body (I had a valve sticking and my pressure was low) "overhaul" corrected an issue where it would occasionally hesitate when I first accelerated in D. It would do that occasionally, but regularly. That went away. I also had some super hard shifts from P to D....they were legit slams into gear...that also went away with the valve body. The valve body also seemed to correct a lot of the jumping and bucking it would do - sometimes - when first driving off.
After the valve body, it felt GREAT for a week or two, but then felt like some goofy ish came back. I still had some occasional rather awkward shifts. One time it absolutely stuttered for several seconds at 25 MPH....definitely "off". Another time, it didn't move at all after pressing the gas. Didn't move, felt STUCK. On the third attempt after braking, it engaged into reverse and rolled back.
After the CDF fix, ALL the slightly alarming stuff is gone....but that's collectively between both repairs. The first fixed some, the second seems to have fixed the remainder.
Fingers crossed I'm done with the BS. I still love the truck and am looking forward to the tune and some new tires....some eibachs all around
What are the “ parts around it” that are not covered? Do you have an estimate from them that you could post here?My issue w/ my 2020 Ranger Lariat 4X4 w/ 98K miles was a cold clank going into reverse and then a clanking (clunking?) only when cold going over some bumps up my driveway. Local dealer says it's my center bearing and boot causing excessive movement. Looking at $862 for the repair. I bought the 100K mi. extended warranty ($1400.00) and the driveshaft center bearing IS covered but the parts around it aren't, (what??!!) so no warranty coverage at all. Seems completely bogus to me. I went round and round with customer service and the Ford extended service people and no grace, no reimbursement available. Seems like it should be covered.
$862 for a boot and bolts??? Doesn’t the state of California require that you be provided a detailed breakdown ( $$$) of what’s covered and not covered?? Sounds sketchy to me. Tell them you want an itemized breakdown of the repair showing exact costs of every part and the labor to do the job. It should show what Ford is covering and what you’re expected to pay in detail.Apparently the "boot" and bolts. The estimate invoice doesn't line all the individual parts out. It just seems so wrong to allow the center driveshaft bearing to be covered, but not the other parts. I even tried to get a partial warranty reimbursement and was denied because I didn't qualify as FLP (Ford Loyalty Program - I assume) since I bought mine used, I'm guessing.