Tire size recommendation?

[Superspirit]

Yes, you can correct the speedometer with forscan however it will set a communication code as what we can set doesn't satisfy the pcm. My speedo is correct and the code doesn't turn on the light so without a scan you'll never know it exist's

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[Dean]

So to make sure I understand you...

You mean you have corrected circumference with Forscan, The computer did not like changing it, but accepts the change and sets an error code, but no "check light" turns on, Correct?

I guess the dealer wants to know if the user changed tire size.

While this is needed to get correct speed reading I think it may also impact ABS functioning as well... although to a lesser degree.

 

[Superspirit]

The abs still works as intended. It's utilized a lot in trail control mode and I use that all the time out in the fields chasing birds.

And yes you are understanding it correctly.

 

[MrBusses]

Yes I changed my tire size with forscan, it does set a code for invalid data from the bcm but won't set the engine light so nothing to worry about.

It has nothing to do with the dealer knowing you changed something it's just how the modules talk to each other

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

So to make sure I understand you...

You mean you have corrected circumference with Forscan, The computer did not like changing it, but accepts the change and sets an error code, but no "check light" turns on, Correct?

I guess the dealer wants to know if the user changed tire size.

While this is needed to get correct speed reading I think it may also impact ABS functioning as well... although to a lesser degree.

I went up in size but did not calibrate the speedometer. I’m out by about 5%. At 95 km/hr on the speedometer, my GPS says I’m going 100 km/hr.

There is a good and bad side to this.

Good:
For every 95 kms registered by the truck’s systems, I’ve actually covered 100 kms. It’s like a very small extended warranty but I always time out on my warranty anyway. Total kms at resale read as lower than actual.

Bad:
My truck doesn’t accurately calculate my fuel consumption. If I burn through 12 L of gas in 100 kms as per the odometer, I really burned through 12L in only 95 actual kms driven or 12.6 L/100 kms rather than 12.0 L/100 kms. Overall fuel consumption at resale reads as higher than actual.

 

[lazynorse]

If you actually offroad, narrow is better in 9 out of 10 situations. You gain longer footprints when aired down, and longer is better than wide. Lots of videos demonstrate this fact. My 255/75/17s in a C load have taken me all over Utah, including White Rim Trail, popular Moab trails, San Rafael, Grand Staircase, spending 2 weeks in each of those. Not to mention desert canyons of Owyhees in Oregon and Idaho. My Firestone C Load Destination XTs in the size provided above have performed without fail in all these locations. They are 32". I sorta wished they were 33" but that is only 1/2 inch further clearance, but usually less than that once aired down, so there's really no difference between a 32" and a 33" tire. If you're worried about that half inch, get skid plates (I have full set of RCI aluminum).

Wide heavy E load tires cannot be aired down to deform like they need for optimal traction on trucks our weight. Sure, they may offer slightly better puncture resistance, but a grinding shear across a lava rock will puncture a E load sidewall too. Less MPGs = less range, and when you're in 4wd creeping and crawling between 5 and 15 mph, you'll get below 15 mpg with the lightweight tires I have. Less with fat E loads. That means quite the reduction in range. Also, more wear on breaks and everything else while doing so.

If you want to truly rock crawl, I'd say get a Jeep and 38's or bigger. I don't see our trucks as a rational platform for true rock crawling, and the very large tires and tons of mods needed to accomplish that. I've certainly hit a point on a trail where I've said "well, it went from moderate 4 wheeling or overlanding to rock crawling, here's where I get off." Heavy fat E load 33s do not get you across that threshold into rock crawling, so why do it? Unless vanity and looks, which is course is one's prerogative.

 

[Superspirit]

The heavy 33" E rated 10 plies are all I run. C,xl and sl's cannot handle the mesquite thorns of New Mexico desert and south Texas. So the fuel mileage trade off is worth it. All depends on what you do with your truck. Mine traverses BLM roads with lots of sand and thorns out chasing quail as that's my passion. E rated tires are required if you don't want to replace them for sidewall thorns every week. Been there done that.

 

[MrBusses]

If you actually offroad, narrow is better in 9 out of 10 situations. You gain longer footprints when aired down, and longer is better than wide. Lots of videos demonstrate this fact. My 255/75/17s in a C load have taken me all over Utah, including White Rim Trail, popular Moab trails, San Rafael, Grand Staircase, spending 2 weeks in each of those. Not to mention desert canyons of Owyhees in Oregon and Idaho. My Firestone C Load Destination XTs in the size provided above have performed without fail in all these locations. They are 32". I sorta wished they were 33" but that is only 1/2 inch further clearance, but usually less than that once aired down, so there's really no difference between a 32" and a 33" tire. If you're worried about that half inch, get skid plates (I have full set of RCI aluminum).

Wide heavy E load tires cannot be aired down to deform like they need for optimal traction on trucks our weight. Sure, they may offer slightly better puncture resistance, but a grinding shear across a lava rock will puncture a E load sidewall too. Less MPGs = less range, and when you're in 4wd creeping and crawling between 5 and 15 mph, you'll get below 15 mpg with the lightweight tires I have. Less with fat E loads. That means quite the reduction in range. Also, more wear on breaks and everything else while doing so.

If you want to truly rock crawl, I'd say get a Jeep and 38's or bigger. I don't see our trucks as a rational platform for true rock crawling, and the very large tires and tons of mods needed to accomplish that. I've certainly hit a point on a trail where I've said "well, it went from moderate 4 wheeling or overlanding to rock crawling, here's where I get off." Heavy fat E load 33s do not get you across that threshold into rock crawling, so why do it? Unless vanity and looks, which is course is one's prerogative.

Yeah, Im in Florida no rock crawling here unless its man made. Comparing a 255/75 to a 275/70 they are nearly the same in all dimension except width and most of my off roading involves sugar sand. Unless I can get another set of the General grabber 265/70r17s for $250 again Ill move up to the 275s

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