2020 Ranger Lariet - No Key Detected

[jjk2020]

I've been receiving No Key Detected on both my factory key fobs on an on and off basis.
As an example, I will receive the message on key fob #1, then go to key fob #2 to start the vehicle.
Then, I'll receive the same message on key forb #2, then go back to key fob#1 and it WILL WORK.
I've checked both key fob batteries with a volt meter and both are good.
I've even replaced both key fob batteries with brand new batteries and still get the same results.
Sometimes the fobs work and sometimes they won't.
I've also started the vehicle via the center console emergency start with both keys.
I've read that if the car starts with fob via emergency procedure, they should not need re-programming (I'm not sure if this is true or not).
I'm trying to avoid going to a dealer and pay big bucks for something simple.
I should note that I did change the car battery back in October. That process did have a backup battery process hooked up so as not to loose settings.
Any ideas as to how to resolve this issue?

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[RangerBill]

Are you using name brand batteries in your fobs? The antenna for the passive anti-theft system is located in the center console and could be bad or disconnected. There is also an antenna located at the rear of the cab. You could try moving the fob to the rear seat to test for a bad center antenna.

 

[jjk2020]

I put in brand new Duracell batteries in both fobs.

 

[RangerBill]

Also, check for any DTC codes with Forscan or a good code reader.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

When my battery was replaced, there was no need for a “battery backup process” to save settings.

However, it was necessary to go through a process that lets the truck know the battery is new. Maybe it’s the BMS reset I’ve read about on here. Whatever it was, it had to be performed.

If you haven’t performed that needed step, maybe doing so will solve this issue. If it has been performed, then, I got nuthin’.

 

[jjk2020]

Also, check for any DTC codes with Forscan or a good code reader.

I just performed this process with my ODBLink MX+ scan tool with ODBLink App and no DTC codes came up. All is well according to this app and scanner

 

[jjk2020]

When my battery was replaced, there was no need for a “battery backup process” to save settings.

However, it was necessary to go through a process that lets the truck know the battery is new. Maybe it’s the BMS reset I’ve read about on here. Whatever it was, it had to be performed.

If you haven’t performed that needed step, maybe doing so will solve this issue. If it has been performed, then, I got nuthin’.

At the time, I was trying to avoid extra steps by saving settings during the battery change.
I'm not familiar with BMS reset, but I'll search for it here and see how difficult that is and what other things it might impact. I don't want to cause other issues during that process.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

At the time, I was trying to avoid extra steps by saving settings during the battery change.
I'm not familiar with BMS reset, but I'll search for it here and see how difficult that is and what other things it might impact. I don't want to cause other issues during that process.

I don’t think it impacts anything negatively. @RangerBill and others will know what needs to be done after the battery change and whether or not that might fix your problem.

Don’t want to lead you down a wrong path - hopefully, more informed folks come along.

 

[jjk2020]

I don’t think it impacts anything negatively. @RangerBill and others will know what needs to be done after the battery change and whether or not that might fix your problem.

I just performed the BMS reset.
I'll advise if I still have issues. So far today the truck has been starting without issue before I posted this thread.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Did you do it with a scanner or the “turn the key, flash the lights, open the door, put your right foot in and you turn yourself around” method?

 

[jjk2020]

Did you do it with a scanner or the “turn the key, flash the lights, open the door, put your right foot in and you turn yourself around” method?

I did it via the internet quick BMS reset instructions (flash lights & brakes).

 

[airline tech]

If issue returns - The PATS center antenna is mounted here and there are (2ea) inline connectors between the BCM and the antenna - so 4 total connectors in the circuit.
The issue is getting access, I do not think the cupholders will snap out of the console like the front half does with the (switches)

and not sure without checking if you have enough room to reach under - the parking brake boot

And I am not sure of the EXACT location of the 2 inline connectors that run in that center console as the diagrams do not depict them (nicely)

C312 and C315

I do not think the BMS reset will help - I think due to the intermittent issue - you have a dirty connection at one of the 4 connectors or a weak center antenna frequency

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Oh well, at least your truck knows it has a new battery, which will help it charge as it is designed to.

I hope it’s as simple as a loose connection and that mice didn’t get in under your console - it happens.

 

[jjk2020]

Oh well, at least your truck knows it has a new battery, which will help it charge as it is designed to.

I hope it’s as simple as a loose connection and that mice didn’t get in under your console - it happens.

Thanks for your reply and the great graphics with other potential areas to look if the problem does come back.
FYI - I did in fact have mice issues that came in via the firewall and cabin filter area. It or they chewed up my rear window defogger wires a couple years ago.
Some chewed up the battery insulation as well.
I hope they did do any other damage. I have not noticed any indication that mice returned within the past couple of months when this new issue cropped up.
I will investigate further with hoped this issue will not occur again.

 

[airline tech]

Under the center console is a spot where they have room to nest and some have found evidence of it - so it is a possibility

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