Remember the Valvoline test on the 2.3 ECO

[seasprite]

They went and used Restore and Protect on both test engines.

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[ctechbob]

Saw that a while back. With the addition of Port injection back into the 2.3 Eco, it has now become (IMO) the best of all the Ecoboosts.

No oil pump belt, external water pump. Win/Win

 

[seasprite]

Saw that a while back. With the addition of Port injection back into the 2.3 Eco, it has now become (IMO) the best of all the Ecoboosts.

No oil pump belt, external water pump. Win/Win

I like how the rings got freed up in 2 oil changes on the conventional oil engine. Thinking I might run this oil couple changes at 100k and then go back to Pennzoil Ultra

 

[ctechbob]

I like how the rings got freed up in 2 oil changes on the conventional oil engine. Thinking I might run this oil couple changes at 100k and then go back to Pennzoil Ultra

I just run it full time in everything. It was the first change in the F150 and I buy the 20qt boxes and just use it in the Honda's as well.

 

[TheExtra404]

im coming up on my oil change for my truck, although its only at 25K miles, shouldn't hurt, right? Been using Mobil-1 so far with no issues.

 

[ctechbob]

im coming up on my oil change for my truck, although its only at 25K miles, shouldn't hurt, right? Been using Mobil-1 so far with no issues.

Perfectly acceptable to use it in a new truck and to use it long-term.

--Edit--

I'll also add that Valvoline says that R&P is their top of the line oil. So not only do you get the cleaning aspect, but you should get excellent performance out of it as well.

 

[TheExtra404]

Perfectly acceptable to use it in a new truck and to use it long-term.

--Edit--

I'll also add that Valvoline says that R&P is their top of the line oil. So not only do you get the cleaning aspect, but you should get excellent performance out of it as well.

Oh, that sounds really good. Thanks for the heads up on this. Im planning on buying this Friday.

 

[ScarzRanger21(2.0)]

I’ve always run Mobil 1 oil in all my vehicles. From the test results I’ve seen, Mobil 1 offers better wear reduction (13%) and better results when it comes to high-heat engine protection. When it comes to towing, and specifically turbo charged engines, Mobil 1 scores higher than Valvoline in engine protection and performance.

Valvoline scores a little higher when it comes to seal rejuvenation in high mileage engines BUT my logic is that I’d rather protect the engine all the time. Not just when it gets up there in miles and age.

Both are highly regarded products and you can’t really go wrong with either one.

 

[ctechbob]

I’ve always run Mobil 1 oil in all my vehicles. From the test results I’ve seen, Mobil 1 offers better wear reduction (13%) and better results when it comes to high-heat engine protection. When it comes to towing, and specifically turbo charged engines, Mobil 1 scores higher than Valvoline in engine protection and performance.

Valvoline scores a little higher when it comes to seal rejuvenation in high mileage engines BUT my logic is that I’d rather protect the engine all the time. Not just when it gets up there in miles and age.

Both are highly regarded products and you can’t really go wrong with either one.

Thing is, motor oil is a moving target. Formulations and specs are changing at a pretty high rate. Add to that the cost cutting that goes on across the board and yesterdays Mobil 1 is now all of a sudden a second tier player.

Not saying it is, but the oil market is so jumbled up these days that simply sticking with one brand or another isn't a guarantee that you're using 'the best'.

Add to that different engines responding differently to one additive package over another and the confusion only grows.

Just about all you can do is use an oil from a reputable brand that meets the spec that Ford calls for, which admittedly is a super easy target these days.

Of course, you can get in the weeds with oil analysis and all, but pick an SQ rated oil, change it at 5,000 miles, and get on with life.

 

[seasprite]

For those who don't remember the original 500k test with 2.3

 

[TerryW]

For those who don't remember the original 500k test with 2.3

Great video. Thanks for posting.

 

[ScarzRanger21(2.0)]

Thing is, motor oil is a moving target. Formulations and specs are changing at a pretty high rate. Add to that the cost cutting that goes on across the board and yesterdays Mobil 1 is now all of a sudden a second tier player.

Not saying it is, but the oil market is so jumbled up these days that simply sticking with one brand or another isn't a guarantee that you're using 'the best'.

Add to that different engines responding differently to one additive package over another and the confusion only grows.

Just about all you can do is use an oil from a reputable brand that meets the spec that Ford calls for, which admittedly is a super easy target these days.

Of course, you can get in the weeds with oil analysis and all, but pick an SQ rated oil, change it at 5,000 miles, and get on with life.

True… I guess that’s the case with everything these days. Things that use to be top of the line are now mid to low level when it comes to quality. That or you pay an arm and a leg for high quality products. Sometimes you pay triple the cost for a crap product just because of the name stamped on the bottle… Can’t really trust anything anymore lol

I’m a creature of habit though, Mobil 1 oil and WIX filters for all of my vehicles. Hasn’t let me down yet. The day it does is the day I’ll start researching other products. I’ve also heard (don’t know if it’s true) that engines “like” consistency and switching up oil brands/additives can upset them. They get “used” to certain formulations being run in them and switching things up can cause issues. Several mechanics have told me that so I try to pick one product and stick with it unless there’s good reason to change.

 

[Cmar]

Saw that a while back. With the addition of Port injection back into the 2.3 Eco, it has now become (IMO) the best of all the Ecoboosts.

No oil pump belt, external water pump. Win/Win

Not saying that this stuff is bad, obviously works as described, I've used and been impressed with Valvoline Max Life oils before, but you could likely also achieve this same effect with any good quality diesel engine oil.
Diesel oil has more detergents in it due to the naturally dirtier conditions inside a diesel and can clean up a dirty petrol engine quite well.

I used it once to clean up a first gen Kia Sorento 3.5 V6 that I owned many rears ago, I bought it second hand but immaculate, as an ex lease sales reps car. It had been allegedly "dealer serviced" all it's life and the log book was correctly filled and stamped. The varnish on the dipstick and inside the valve cover told a different story - unless the dealer used fish oil, or simply stamped the book , washed the car, and sent it back to the customer.

So my previous car had been a diesel and I still had a full 20 litre drum of dual rated (mixed fleet) diesel oil sitting in the shed. First change came out filthy, almost like it had come out of a diesel, subsequent changes came out cleaner and cleaner, the engine rattles disappeared, it stopped using oil, and the varnish disappeared from the dipstick and valve cover.
After 50,000 Km it was running like new, so I kept on using the same oil, and I put another 100,000 km on it and traded it on another car running better than when I bought it.

I still use that same brand of oil in my diesel ranger today.

 

[ctechbob]

Not saying that this stuff is bad, obviously works as described, I've used and been impressed with Valvoline Max Life oils before, but you could likely also achieve this same effect with any good quality diesel engine oil.
Diesel oil has more detergents in it due to the naturally dirtier conditions inside a diesel and can clean up a dirty petrol engine quite well.

I used it once to clean up a first gen Kia Sorento 3.5 V6 that I owned many rears ago, I bought it second hand but immaculate, as an ex lease sales reps car. It had been allegedly "dealer serviced" all it's life and the log book was correctly filled and stamped. The varnish on the dipstick and inside the valve cover told a different story - unless the dealer used fish oil, or simply stamped the book , washed the car, and sent it back to the customer.

So my previous car had been a diesel and I still had a full 20 litre drum of dual rated (mixed fleet) diesel oil sitting in the shed. First change came out filthy, almost like it had come out of a diesel, subsequent changes came out cleaner and cleaner, the engine rattles disappeared, it stopped using oil, and the varnish disappeared from the dipstick and valve cover.
After 50,000 Km it was running like new, so I kept on using the same oil, and I put another 100,000 km on it and traded it on another car running better than when I bought it.

I still use that same brand of oil in my diesel ranger today.

Years ago I would agree, but with LSPI on the table with these turbocharged GDI engines I wouldn't even do a mixed fleet oil, especially if it only carries an older API rating.

Of course, you guys down under get all kinds of oil burners we don't get up here in the states. But for those of us that are stuck with GDI, then I'd stay away from diesel/mixed fleet oils.

 

[Cmar]

Interesting, although with the hi tech diesels we use over here, we follow the Euro classification system, and most oils are ACEA rated, not API.

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