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What did you do to your Ranger today?

stinkechin

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Can’t wait it’ll be sweet to have neat little side marker flashers.. and if it doesn’t cause the hyper flashing of the dash signal (the one that i believe is to let you know a blinker needs blinker fluid.) that will be even better.

ill let you know how things fit. im guessing the male will need to be modified to fit correctly.
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HeatXfer

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I added a 2-camera Wolfgbox rear view mirror dash-cam a couple of months ago, primarily because the roof-top carrier I have over the bed blocks the rear window. I mounted the rear camera on top of the cargo box in a cheap Amazon antenna shark fin and I'm really pleased with the clarity and unobstructed rear view.

IfiWKtlm.webp


I really only use the carrier for camping or cross-country trips, so it's off most of the time, and because I like the Wolfbox rear view picture so much, I decided to add another rear view camera for everyday use.

I've wanted to add a cab spoiler to smooth the air flow over the carrier and quiet the buffeting I get when the carrier is on, so I figured I'd kill two birds with one stone and mount a camera to the spoiler.

HlmdFaTm.webp


I used a fish tape to pull the camera's cable between the headliner and the roof, back to the third brake light. It was super easy!

ftPvhzem.webp


I cut a notch for the cable in the top of the brake light housing where it meets the body and fastened the camera to the underside of the spoiler. I'll make a neoprene foam piece to fill the gap between the two to prevent vibration.

8KouCZxm.webp


I1WrEcRm.webp


For now I just plug in the camera I need, but I'm putting together a tiny A-B switch box to fit behind the rear view mirror so I don't have to unplug & plug the cameras.

Hi1K0Clm.webp
 

SFCHAMBERS

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Sorry no pics, but what I did was changed the diff fluid in the front and rear diffs of my '19 XLT. The old oil was a little dark but nothing too bad for 60,000 miles and best news was there was no noticeable metal on the magnet. Real easy to do with two sets of ramps. This weekend I am going to do the trans and t-case and install an oil pan with a drain plug on the trans. But that story will be another post. Will have pics of that job.
 

Colo_Ranger

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This was a week ago but... I installed my LightForce harness. It allows the brights to be used as a trigger for the Garmin Power Switch. I use the auto bright feature which means that now, when my brights come on, my SS5s, SS3s, and light bar come on and automatically turn off when it senses another car. This is supper handy for driving in the boonies I frequent.

huge thanks to @Goyo86 who helped (mostly did) me re-pin the harness. Another member here said his worked no problem, but mine was wired all wrong. There are 7 pins in an 8 pin connector and the open pin was different on the harness vs. my truck. Plus, the trigger wires from the brights and DRL were on the wrong pins... It took way too long as the connectors are really high quality, but that makes them a pain in the ass to de-pin.
 

OFC Ranger

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This was a week ago but... I installed my LightForce harness. It allows the brights to be used as a trigger for the Garmin Power Switch. I use the auto bright feature which means that now, when my brights come on, my SS5s, SS3s, and light bar come on and automatically turn off when it senses another car. This is supper handy for driving in the boonies I frequent.

huge thanks to @Goyo86 who helped (mostly did) me re-pin the harness. Another member here said his worked no problem, but mine was wired all wrong. There are 7 pins in an 8 pin connector and the open pin was different on the harness vs. my truck. Plus, the trigger wires from the brights and DRL were on the wrong pins... It took way too long as the connectors are really high quality, but that makes them a pain in the ass to de-pin.
The one time halogens win over factory LEDs. On my 19' XLT all I did was high beam tapped (at the headlight) a trigger line to the relay that powered my overhead spots. I didnt use auto-high beams (hate the feature), but having my overheads triggered by the steering wheel stalk was vastly superior to switch manipulated.

I'd love to do the same on my new truck, but no one has made a specialty harness for our LEDs.
 


Colo_Ranger

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The one time halogens win over factory LEDs. On my 19' XLT all I did was high beam tapped (at the headlight) a trigger line to the relay that powered my overhead spots. I didnt use auto-high beams (hate the feature), but having my overheads triggered by the steering wheel stalk was vastly superior to switch manipulated.

I'd love to do the same on my new truck, but no one has made a specialty harness for our LEDs.
I have factory halogens. I’m not Lariat…

this was a harness that is supposed to plug into the headlight and harness and be a bridge with trigger wires.
 

subquark

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A bath! =D

Soupie's first in-depth bath this summer, presoak with soap cannon, rinse, used Iron Remover for the first time, rinse, soap cannon, then wash with brush (one-bucket method with a grate) and microfiber cloths, then rinse. Dry with the Ego blower and the Tornador, and then a giant soak-it-all-up monster microfiber towel (I think it's 3'x4', Kate got a couple of those giant ones)! =D

Did the inside of the windows with just water and a microfiber towel. Then 303 Graphene and 303 Aerospace Protectant - that tonneau cover has a few sap spots that I didn't try to remove, but need to ... and that cover sucks up the Protectant - I swear you could probably easily use a half a bottle on it.

Then decided to look at the cabin air filter. It was dirty on both sides, I'm kind of thinking the dealership flipped it over at 2,300 miles when I stupidly agreed to the works including the cabin filter. It was certainly dirty today for supposedly only 3,900 miles on it.

half the washing battle is grabbing all the crap (and then putting it away)
1.jpg


love that Tornador on the air hose, great for the grill. but, in reality, the Ego blower with stubby nozzle works just as well. and that Mitt-on-a-Stick is perfect for a shorty like me! =D
blower.jpg


the world's greatest invention, after the wheel, are these little hose rollers - cuts down on that aggravation big time!
3.jpg


tried out the Turtle Wax "hybrid" soap - couldn't really tell any difference from Mr. Pink, it even smelled similar - maybe it would work great for Tito's shell! =) oh, and I made sure to clean that magnificent chain! =p
4.jpg


Super Soapy Soupie! I was able to work in the shade at an ideal 74° - so nice ...
5.jpg


first time using Iron Remover - of course the wheels were loaded with brake dust
6.jpg


not too many iron spots on the body, maybe a dozen like this, that I could see anyway
7.jpg


wiped down the engine - I had washed it at the start of summer and it was still pretty clean
8.jpg


nice reflection, no new Graphene yet, any shine is from last summer's Graphene
9.jpg


not bad for a truck parked outside all year in New England - no Graphene yet
10.jpg


tonneau covers absolutely soaks up the 303 Aerospace Protectant
11.jpg


well d'uh, of course I detail the damper! =p
12.jpg


finally, the 303 Graphene! w00t, Souper Shiny Soupie! =)
13.jpg


I do think the 303 Graphene protects very well. I imagine ceramic would be a step up in that protection (and price!). no frou-frou tire dressing for me ... would clash with the new backup alarm! =p
14.jpg


said cabin air filter on the left, pretty gnarly for only 3,900 miles - but we do have some wicked pollen here
15.jpg
 
Last edited:

Fordup

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A bath! =D

Soupie's first in-depth bath this summer, presoak with soap cannon, rinse, used Iron Remover for the first time, rinse, soap cannon, then wash with brush (one-bucket method with a grate) and microfiber cloths, then rinse. Dry with the Ego blower and the Tornador, and then a giant soak-it-all-up monster microfiber towel (I think it's 3'x4', Kate got a couple of those giant ones)! =D

Did the inside of the windows with just water and a microfiber towel. Then 303 Graphene and 303 Aerospace Protectant - that tonneau cover has a few sap spots that I didn't try to remove, but need to ... and that cover sucks up the Protectant - I swear you could probably easily use a half a bottle on it.

Then decided to look at the cabin air filter. It was dirty on both sides, I'm kind of thinking the dealership flipped it over at 2,300 miles when I stupidly agreed to the works including the cabin filter. It was certainly dirty today for supposedly only 3,900 miles on it.

half the washing battle is grabbing all the crap (and then putting it away)
1.jpg


love that Tornador on the air hose, great for the grill. but, in reality, the Ego blower with stubby nozzle works just as well. and that Mitt-on-a-Stick is perfect for a shorty like me! =D
View attachment 218457

the world's greatest invention, after the wheel, are these little hose rollers - cuts down on that aggravation big time!
3.jpg


tried out the Turtle Wax "hybrid" soap - couldn't really tell any difference from Mr. Pink, it even smelled similar - maybe it would work great for Tito's shell! =) oh, and I made sure to clean that magnificent chain! =p
4.jpg


Super Soapy Soupie! I was able to work in the shade at an ideal 74° - so nice ...
5.jpg


first time using Iron Remover - of course the wheels were loaded with brake dust
6.jpg


not too many iron spots on the body, maybe a dozen like this, that I could see anyway
7.jpg


wiped down the engine - I had washed it at the start of summer and it was still pretty clean
8.jpg


nice reflection, no new Graphene yet, any shine is from last summer's Graphene
9.jpg


not bad for a truck parked outside all year in New England - no Graphene yet
10.jpg


tonneau covers absolutely soaks up the 303 Aerospace Protectant
11.jpg


well d'uh, of course I detail the damper! =p
12.jpg


finally, the 303 Graphene! w00t, Souper Shiny Soupie! =)
13.jpg


I do think the 303 Graphene protects very well. I imagine ceramic would be a step up in that protection (and price!). no frou-frou tire dressing for me ... would clash with the new backup alarm! =p
14.jpg


said cabin air filter on the left, pretty gnarly for only 3,900 miles - but we do have some wicked pollen here
15.jpg
You did it again. Now I need a set of those wheel hose rollers ?.
Soupie still looks like new ?.
 

Zepproxx

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Thinking about getting an inverter to wire in behind the seat. Im annoyed that the factory one is only 150w as id like to charge my milwaukee 12ah batteries but would take days with a charger rated to 150w.
Yeah I don’t know what they were thinking with that weak inverter. Maybe to check off a box. It won’t even power a bucket head shop vac. I’m looking at inverters as well. Not sure about how many watts but I’m thinking 3000 should be about right. Anything over 2800 heats up wiring in a house. Your thoughts?
 

Zepproxx

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This was a week ago but... I installed my LightForce harness. It allows the brights to be used as a trigger for the Garmin Power Switch. I use the auto bright feature which means that now, when my brights come on, my SS5s, SS3s, and light bar come on and automatically turn off when it senses another car. This is supper handy for driving in the boonies I frequent.

huge thanks to @Goyo86 who helped (mostly did) me re-pin the harness. Another member here said his worked no problem, but mine was wired all wrong. There are 7 pins in an 8 pin connector and the open pin was different on the harness vs. my truck. Plus, the trigger wires from the brights and DRL were on the wrong pins... It took way too long as the connectors are really high quality, but that makes them a pain in the ass to de-pin.
That sounds like a really good mod for an old guy like me. During the day my distance is not far out of 20/20 but at night that all changes when driving down dark roads.
 

shovelhd

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Yeah I don’t know what they were thinking with that weak inverter. Maybe to check off a box. It won’t even power a bucket head shop vac. I’m looking at inverters as well. Not sure about how many watts but I’m thinking 3000 should be about right. Anything over 2800 heats up wiring in a house. Your thoughts?
A true 3000W PSW inverter is going to require some hefty feed cable from the battery, probably 0 gauge copper. That stuff is expensive. You might look at welding wire as it's pretty flexible. Make sure to use a heavy grommet through metal.
 

Fordup

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A true 3000W PSW inverter is going to require some hefty feed cable from the battery, probably 0 gauge copper. That stuff is expensive. You might look at welding wire as it's pretty flexible. Make sure to use a heavy grommet through metal.
It also will destroy the factory battery in no time. I find 1200 is about the max for a non deep cycle led acid battery and remember you basically need to start with 100% charged batteries because lead acid doesn't handle repeated draw down well. I charge with a 200Ah 12 volt lithium battery and can charge over a dozen Milwaukee 8ah batteries between recharging.
 

Colo_Ranger

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SFCHAMBERS

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Well right now this post is what AM I doing for my Ranger today. I am sucking out my trans fluid to replace it and the filter. Also installing a new pan with a drain plug. The vacuum pump is a pump and vacuum unit from Harbor Freight, you can get this one, one that only sucks, or a pneumatic one. Depends on how this project goes, Barney will get a tire rotation and new brakes today. If not a good morning the rest will wait until tomorrow. The BS in front of Barney is my wife's ride, Betty.

PXL_20240824_132034141.jpg
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