Ranger Starting issue - Not the fuel pump

[TJC]

To be fair, it has been 20 years or so, and the truck was a 1996 2WD 2.3L short "fleetside style" bed. And I am really not sure of the pin number but I don't <think> it was the relay coil... but maybe it was.

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[Digbird1]

So I asked my mechanic to come over and take out the new pump so I can return for a refund and also passed on the feedback about a ground to the Left front fender. Here's his reply.

"I think the best way to save you money is just run a wire to a switch. It's gonna take a few hours to trace down the bad wire or ground or fix that. Also it could be the ignition when the key is turned"
What do you think? I ask him to come over with a voltmeter waay before I bought a fuel pump and went that route. So what do you think of that?
I passed on all of the previous feedback from my first post and he seemingly ignored it.
He owes me an hour of time but I I don't know. I dont get replies from him unless he's in the mood. He would listen to any feedback from the forum.
I'd like an objective opinion of his work. I think I wasnt to fire him, or at least never use him again.

 

[Digbird1]

So I asked my mechanic to come over and take out the new pump so I can return for a refund and also passed on the feedback about a ground to the Left front fender. Here's his reply.

"I think the best way to save you money is just run a wire to a switch. It's gonna take a few hours to trace down the bad wire or ground or fix that. Also it could be the ignition when the key is turned"
What do you think? I ask him to come over with a voltmeter waay before I bought a fuel pump and went that route. So what do you think of that?
I passed on all of the previous feedback from my first post and he seemingly ignored it.
He owes me an hour of time but I I don't know. I dont get replies from him unless he's in the mood. He would listen to any feedback from the forum.
I'd like an objective opinion of his work. I think I wasnt to fire him, or at least never use him again.

Sorry typos... "He wouldn't listen" and "I think I want to fire him"

 

[Digbird1]

Sorry typos... "He wouldn't listen" and "I think I want to fire him"

Also the Ranger was starting and running fine before it didn't just clicked whn trying to start it. I think I would have saved myself money and access to driving if I just tapped on the starter solenoid before doing anything. All of this happened when it was sitting in my parking lot. I have been more than patient and this guy has done good work putting in an exhaust sytstem and and a spindle.
But I dont even know if he has a voltmeter and he hasn't brought one over yet. That seems pretty basic...even for me

 

[airline tech]

So I asked my mechanic to come over and take out the new pump so I can return for a refund and also passed on the feedback about a ground to the Left front fender. Here's his reply.

"I think the best way to save you money is just run a wire to a switch. It's gonna take a few hours to trace down the bad wire or ground or fix that. Also it could be the ignition when the key is turned"
What do you think? I ask him to come over with a voltmeter waay before I bought a fuel pump and went that route. So what do you think of that?
I passed on all of the previous feedback from my first post and he seemingly ignored it.
He owes me an hour of time but I I don't know. I dont get replies from him unless he's in the mood. He would listen to any feedback from the forum.
I'd like an objective opinion of his work. I think I wasnt to fire him, or at least never use him again.

I can promise you - Free Labor as my - Ante , if I were to take my meter to your truck - I will have the issue isolated and most likely fixed in under 30 minutes.
It’s very clear - he does not know how to use one.
it is a very simple circuit, I have provided him step by step instructions, with those instructions, you will have a running truck - it’s that simple.
The main thing that needs done is to know what is lost - power or ground.
If you visually inspect the ground wires at the fender, you just may see the issue without the need for a meter.

 

[Digbird1]

Sorry typos... "He wouldn't listen" and "I think I want to fire him"

I think Airline tech was right, He's done a good job replacing my exhaust. But all he's done to check power to pump is switch out the relay modules, Which I did before he cane over. I think this is simple but over his head

 

[TJC]

I can promise you - Free Labor as my - Ante , if I were to take my meter to your truck - I will have the issue isolated and most likely fixed in under 30 minutes.
It’s very clear - he does not know how to use one.
it is a very simple circuit, I have provided him step by step instructions, with those instructions, you will have a running truck - it’s that simple.
The main thing that needs done is to know what is lost - power or ground.
If you visually inspect the ground wires at the fender, you just may see the issue without the need for a meter.

The fellow sounds like he is an old school mechanic, He knows the mechanics of an engine, but that knowledge is not enough with modern autos. He needs electrical / electronic knowledge, and diagnostic techniques... and he needs access to the vehicle schematics and the automotive manuals. And lastly, he needs to diagnostic tools that can read the read codes, and realtime active monitoring of all the systems and sensors.

 

[TomSim]

I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT with a 2.3 L engine. The battery, starter and starter relay are all less than a year old. The furl pump is about 3 years old. Suddenly one morning a little over a week ago it just clicked when I tried to start it. I charged the battery, swapped out the starter relay with no luck. I read some posts about straightened out the steering to start it, That didn't work. I pulled a couple of the relays out of the power distribution box and then put them back in the same module. All this din't change anything. Finally after the truck had been sitting in my parking spot for six days I took a hammer and lightly tapped on the starter solenoid and it cranked over like banshee. But now it won't fire, It's never done that before. I had a mechanic come over and he checked if it was getting and he said it wasn't. He's thinks that during the time the Ranger was sitting the fuel pump froze up. Before I take the box off again I'd like some opinions on if something tried could be causing the pump to not get power, But the pump itself be ok? or maybe the sock/filter clogged?
Thanks for your input!

Sounds like the starter to me, not the fuel pump

 

[airline tech]

Ok, here is a better detail, reminder I said that older manuals are sometimes not imported onto databases correctly, as I found a discrepancy in them already.
I am pointing out the Ground for the Fuel Pump, I believe the following is the correct G103 Point.
Note other diagrams show G104 as the pump ground.

Another clue that this Ground is the issue, does your Fuel Gauge Work?
The Pump & Gauge have different power inputs but share that ground point.
This is a good point of T/Shoot (knowledge)

I want to draw attention to its location and the location of the Starter Relay (You Replaced)
Its right next to it:

Check the G103 for security and ensure it has a solid clean connection and all wires to that lug are intact.

With all you have done, and the truck was running prior to you, replacing the starter relay, I HIGHLY suspect your whole issue is here.

About the same diagram, except this one highlights (1) thing and that is the Fuse Link,
Note how it is part of the Starter Relay Wiring, if this was strained or pulled during install, it is possible you broke the wire, now this link feeds the Alternator and is a protection circuit.
You have a large gauge wire - dropping down to a lower gauge wire, its intent is to burn the lower gauge wire in half to break the circuit (a fuse in a wire) AKA Fusable Link

Check that section of wire, you should feel a soft area inside the insulation where it has melted, if it has - you can also find the spot where the gauge changes (gets larger) - grab that spot and the other end of the wire - grab it and give it a slight tug, if the link is melted you will be able to stretch the wire (insulation)

I do not think this is your issue, but a good idea to check it, being you were touching that wire when the relay was replaced.

Now let's get a meter and focus on the Fuel Pump Ground (1st)
If the above G103 appears intact and a good clean connection.

Key Off:

At the Fuel Pump Connector (4 -Wires)

Pinout as follows:
Black Wire = Fuel Pump Ground
Black / Yellow Wire = Fuel Sender Ground (Gauge)

Meter (Ohms) Scale
Red Lead - To Black Wire ---Black Lead to a Good / CLEAN Body Ground (Frame)
Repeat the same for the Black / Yellow Wire

You should see a reading of around 3 to 5 ohms
This is testing the resistance of the ground wire from G103 back to the Fuel Pump Connector.

If this is high resistance, the pump or gauge will not operate. you most likely have a Mega Ohms reading here (if I am correct)

To correct the issue, closely check the G103 (ground point) and the wires going into the lug.
If no issues are found with that G103 then you have the option of spending the time to locate the broken ground or just run a new set of ground wires to the G103 location or a new location altogether (add into an existing) ground along the frame or make a new one.
So, cut and splice in a (NEW) Ground

That covers the Pump Ground

Let's move on to the Power Side: Which we have already covered some

When you cycle the key to on - The Pump Primes for (2 seconds) if the EEC does not see an ignition input it shuts the pump off.
So, testing for power at the pump can be misleading if you do not know this (operation) note.

So, how does the EEC turn off the pump?
It does this by removing the ground from the (coil side) of the FP Relay
The EEC is controlling this:

So how can we check for power (if it shuts off in 2 seconds) Commanded

You can have your meter hook up at the FP Connector and every time you cycle the key you will see 12-volt power at the connector for 2 seconds.

or

Use Step 1 OR Step 2 - For T/Shoot Power

We can by-pass the EEC control and force a constant 12-volts to the pump via:

Step 1: Leave the FP Relay installed and go to the EEC Test Connector, Jumper the FP Test Port to a good body ground
Turn Ign key to (ON) and then test for power anywhere on the Fuel Pump Circuit, you now have forced a ground to be applied to the Coil Side of the FP Relay and should have constant 12-volts being applied to the pump.

Step 2: You have already done, and that is jumper the FP Relay (Removed) (Top & Bottom) pins
This applies direct 12-Volt power to the pump (when key is on)

In step 1 - Tests the whole Fuel Pump circuit, except the EEC Control for Coil Ground as you are forcing the ground from the EEC

If step 1 - gets the pump to run, then you have an issue with the EEC or the ground for the relay coil
If step 1 - is no help, then you have a power or ground issue (pump control)

In step 2, you are by-passing the relay completely and are jumping the power feed from one side of the relay to the other (completing the circuit) that the relay controls.

Ok, here is the complete diagram:

Let's start with are we getting power at the Fuel Pump:

Note: set up the power feed described above (using step 1 or 2) and Turn Ignition Key to (ON)


At the FP Connector
Pinouts as Follows:

Note: Voltage readings are dependent upon what your current battery voltage is (?)
Normally this is around 12 volts, so do a test of (CURRENT) battery voltage and apply that reading to all (test result) readings below.

Pink / Black Wire = Fuel Pump Power
Black Wire = Fuel Pump Ground

Meter on Volt DC Scale
Red Lead - To Pink / Black
Black Lead - To Black Wire
and then
Black Lead to - Body Ground (Frame)
You should be reading 12 volts on both test points
If you have a better reading when going to body ground, then you have bad ground circuit.

The reason for checking both points is we need to separate the ground points to ensure we have a good ground circuit, when you go straight to body ground you are by-passing the ground wire run to (G-103)

Repeat this test using the Fuel Sender Gauge (Wires)

Note: The fuel sender (gauge) I believe is a 5-Volt circuit so you will most likely see 5-volts in this test:

Pin Out:
Yellow / White = Fuel Sender (Gauge) Power
Black / Yellow = Fuel Sender (Gauge) Ground

Same power test as above for the pump power (only use these) wires

If I am correct, you should see 5-Volts and the same matching voltage on both tests (wire and body grounds)
Same as above if the body ground provides a better (higher) voltage reading then you have a ground circuit issue.

Note: here as I want to point out that since this is a lower voltage, it's easier for power to get to ground, so this is a shared ground circuit with the pump power, so you could possibly see a good test result on this (as far as the wire ground / body ground) separation check.

Ok, If we do not have power at the Pump Connector and our Pump / Gage grounds are good, then we have a power issue confirmed.

It is a good T/Shoot Practice to split your test circuit in half, to help isolate which side of the circuit you need to diagnose.

A perfect spot is the Fuel Inertia Switch:

With the (Step 1 or 2) still in play and the Ign Key (ON)

I suspect that it has a connector, on it - If not you will need to back probe it via:
T-Pin (Wifes sewing kit) or a paper clip, slide it carefully down the side of the wire to hot the contact pin:

Pinout:
Dark Green / Yellow = Switch Input

Meter Set (Voltage DC)
Red Lead to - Dark Green / Yellow
Black Lead - To Body Ground

You should have 12-Volts
If yes, then the switch is bad or wire feed between the switch and the pump is bad.
Note there are 2ea inline connectors between the switch and the pump
I can dig for locations (if needed)

To test the switch (isolate) switch vs wiring (between the switch) and pump
Key (OFF) connect the connector to the switch and back probe the other wire:
Pink / Black - Key (ON) and check for voltage on this side of the switch same as above for the Dark Green / Yellow wire

If you have power on one side and not the other - It's the Switch

If no, power on the Dark Green / Yellow then we need to move farther upstream of the switch

So - Undo Step 1 or Step 2, Turn key (OFF)

Pull the FP Relay out (if using step 1)

Key (ON) and with meter in Volts DC
Ref the Diagram Above:

Note: Since I am not sure (100%) which Terminals are what (Location)
I do know that the (2) vertical contacts are 30 & 87 (the center one is 87a)
The Horizontal ones are Contacts 85 & 86

But with that in mind should be:
Pin 87 = Top
Pin 30 = Bottom
Pin 85 = Right
Pin 86 = Left

The vertical & horizontal may be opposite sides of each other (so swap them if needed)

The main point is with Key (ON) you should be getting power to (2) contact pins
Pins: 30 & 86

Pin 30 = Always Powered
Pin 86 = Powers with Key (ON) and the EEC Relay Closes (Switched Power)

With meter set to Volts DC:
Red Lead to Pin 30
Black Lead to (Neg) Batt Terminal or Body Ground

Repeat for Pin 86:

You should be getting 12-Volts, note if no voltage swap to the opposite side (vert or Harz) in case my Top/Bottom and Left/Right are backwards.
On BOTH Contacts - 30 & 86

If no power on pin 30 - the issue is in the relay box or fuse
if no power on pin 86 - the issue in with the EEC/PCM power relay or wiring
This is where is gets deep into a T/Shoot as we do not know if the Wiring/ PCM Power Relay / or the EEC itself has fried.
So, we need to do a more detailed T/Shoot - If this is the case as there are deeper steps to take for this.

If you have power on both pins 30 & 86,
Then you have an issue with the FP Relay itself or relay box
To T/Shoot this, we need to disconnect the battery, the EEC Connector and the Fuel Inertia Switch and use the meter (ohms) scale and resistance check the wires
For the wire runs for Pins 87 & 85 and pull apart the Relay box and check for broken wire feeds coming from the FP Pump relay contacts - with a close inspection of the pin that was pushed down

There you have it - A HIGHLY Detailed - T/Shoot Guideline.
This is the steps I would take to tackle this issue

As I said, with you getting a temporary run (10-Seconds) and you working in the area of the Pump Ground, I have a feeling you just have a bad ground connection.
I would also say that it is possible that you broke the Fuse Link at the Starter Relay, and that may be playing into this - throwing a kink in the T/Shoot process.
But my strong hunch is the Ground Point (G103)

Hopefully, the mechanic can and will use this T/Shoot Guideline, as if you get it towed to a shop these are the steps they will follow as this is the only way to find the issue you have.
It may be a good idea as you mentioned you have a battery charger, would be to get the battery fully charged up, to allow the key to be on and still have enough voltage to crank the engine over, plus it gives better test results (more precise)

One small detail EDIT:
Note in the wiring diagram C141 , it may be possibly you knocked this connector lose when messing with the starter or leaning over the fender, back up to the 2nd picture for its location.
This connector has FP Power feeding the Switch & Pump (by the diagram) this would be a quick check, disconnect and reconnect thing, and incorporate that connector if needed in checking for power - Just note the (wire colors) for testing

 

[TJC]

G103 is suspiciously close to the fender bolt I used to run the ground wire that I patched together.

 

[Digbird1]

Sounds like the starter to me, not the fuel pump

Why do you think it's the starter when it cranks over and has started. The problem for sure is that the engine is not getting gas. That's one thing that we know for sure. How can the starter affect the engine not getting fuel?

 

[Digbird1]

G103 is suspiciously close to the fender bolt I used to run the ground wire that I patched together.

I believe the G103 ground that's right next to the starter relay and bolts to the firewall was cleaned up about a year ago when I replaced the starter. I checked it and the connection is clean. We took a grinder to clean up the area where it bolts to the firewall. I suspect its something in the distribution box connection. Like either the fuel pump relay module PIN is still pushed down to far, although I jumped it with no luck, or it's a broken wire ..or something along those lines.

 

[Digbird1]

I believe the G103 ground that's right next to the starter relay and bolts to the firewall was cleaned up about a year ago when I replaced the starter. I checked it and the connection is clean. We took a grinder to clean up the area where it bolts to the firewall. I suspect its something in the distribution box connection. Like either the fuel pump relay module PIN is still pushed down to far, although I jumped it with no luck, or it's a broken wire ..or something along those lines.

I'll show the diagram to the mechanic, it's over my head.
Thanks for the input.

 

[Digbird1]

The fellow sounds like he is an old school mechanic, He knows the mechanics of an engine, but that knowledge is not enough with modern autos. He needs electrical / electronic knowledge, and diagnostic techniques... and he needs access to the vehicle schematics and the automotive manuals. And lastly, he needs to diagnostic tools that can read the read codes, and realtime active monitoring of all the systems and sensors.

Well, He's under 30 and has a voltmeter and can read codes. But he is also stubborn and was just focused on the pump. I'm giving him another hour or so and it's not running I'm going to find someone else. Also, one recent reply said it sounded like the starter. I don't see how, Can the starter somehow affect the fuel pump not getting power?..It's seems unlikely as I had it running for 10-15 seconds when the pump was charged with a battery pack.
Thanks!

 

[Digbird1]

G103 is suspiciously close to the fender bolt I used to run the ground wire that I patched together.

Maybe the G103 wire was damaged? Is that the ground for the fuel pump?

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