Manifold Absolute Pressure and Temperature Sensor Replacement (MAPT) Write-Up (K2GZ-9F479-A)

[Trash Panda]

Greetings All,

Dropping another one of my write-ups. This time on our intake manifold MAPT (Manifold Absolute Pressure & Temperature) sensor.
When I was working on my bucking/surging issue by replacing the DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback) sensor, I figured why not go ahead and change the MAPT sensor as well since it is located right beside the DPFE sensor.

Supplies Needed :
-MAPT Sensor (Ford K2GZ-9F479-A) ($43 on FordParts.com and delivered to my doorstep less than 24 hours after ordering)
-3/8" or 1/4" Ratchet (Cordless Ratchet can be beneficial)
-T30 Torx Socket or bit
-Torque Wrench set to 53 in.lbs (6 Nm)
-LIGHT (Headlamp, Milwaukee Rover, etc)
-Work Platform or Step Ladder

STEP ONE :

Pop the hood and locate the MAPT sensor. It is located next to the DPFE sensor on the driver's side of the engine protruding from the intake manifold.

STEP TWO :

Remove the MAPT electrical connector. It works like every other connector on our truck; use your fingernail to slide the locking tab back (circled) and wiggle the connector off pulling towards you.

STEP THREE :

Use your 3/8" ratchet and T30 Torx Socket to remove the MAPT bolt. It is faster if you initially break the bolt with your ratchet and then remove it with a cordless ratchet. Be sure to either catch the bolt or finish unthreading it with your fingers to ensure it does not drop into the engine bay.

STEP FOUR :

Wiggle the MAPT sensor a little bit and it should pull right out. Ensure the orange o-ring did not become dislodged in your intake. My MAPT sensor had a light coating of oil on it, so I opted to clean the mounting hole out with a shop towel the best I could. Might have to invest in an oil catch can eventually..

STEP FIVE :

Install your new MAPT sensor. All it takes is a little push and you can rotate the bolt mounting hole where it lines up on the intake. Interesting enough my OEM MAPT sensor was manufactured in Mexico (MX) and the new one was probably manufactured by Bosch in Germany. I trust German quality more any-day.

STEP SIX :

Hand thread the T30 Torx bolt through the mounting hole into the intake to prevent cross threading the best you can. Lighty snug with your ratchet.
Use your Torque Wrench set to 53 in.lbs (6Nm) to finish securing the T30 bolt. It does not take much force at all to hear the click.

STEP SEVEN :

Plug the connector back on to the new MAPT sensor until you hear a click. Use your fingernail to push the locking tab forward to engage.

STEP EIGHT :

Crank your Ranger to see if a check engine light or any error message appears. Take a test drive around the neighborhood if desired. It could be placebo effect but I noticed a slightly better drive overall.
At the end of the day I believe replacing the DPFE and MAPT sensor was a one-two punch approach to help resolve any surging/bucking my Ranger had. I have always considered MAF (MAPT in our Rangers) to be a every five year maintenance item depending on cost and I will add this into my Ranger's maintenance routine for peace of mind.

That's it! Grab a cold one and enjoy a job well done!

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[My12SecRanger]

this is a better write up then the ford Manuel lol

 

[got3fords]

I like the last step the best.

 

[airline tech]

I have been on the fence on recommending replacing the MAPT sensor for those with issues remaining after the DPFE replacement. I do not like shot gunning parts (sometimes) you have to for intermittent hard to find faults.
Yes, the MAPT does factor into to the EGR control, but it is also one of those sensors that may or may not trip a code, and requires a Live Data monitor to see exactly what it is doing.

 

[Trash Panda]

I have been on the fence on recommending replacing the MAPT sensor for those with issues remaining after the DPFE replacement. I do not like shot gunning parts (sometimes) you have to for intermittent hard to find faults.
Yes, the MAPT does factor into to the EGR control, but it is also one of those sensors that may or may not trip a code, and requires a Live Data monitor to see exactly what it is doing.

I thought I might be a guinea pig; see if the fix lasts longer than if you only replace one.
My new IAT arrived today too..$17 so why not.
I figured you could not go wrong replacing the big 3 (DPFE, MAPT, and IAT) every 5 years or so (my Ranger is a 06/19 build date).

 

[Rrrr-Anger19]

Big thumbs up thanks on this sensor and the temp one up the chain!

Having already completed the DPFE along with two trans fluid changes & a single filter change... after doing these sensors (which were factory for the last 60K on my 2019) I noticed an immediate improvement in sub 25 mph driving as well as rolling take offs at any speed. Not so much that the truck got faster but it certainly got quicker...

not that I'm smashing the gas pedal, but when I wanted some speed, I'd press it and it was like the truck began computing a math problem before taking off???

My only follow up question is, are these sensors only perishable or can they be cleaned regaining their maximum effectiveness similar to the older MAF sensors I am more familiar with?

Oh and where did you source your parts? I paid quite a bit more for mine but honestly I didn't shop that hard and just wanted them quickly.

 

[Trash Panda]

Big thumbs up thanks on this sensor and the temp one up the chain!

Having already completed the DPFE along with two trans fluid changes & a single filter change... after doing these sensors (which were factory for the last 60K on my 2019) I noticed an immediate improvement in sub 25 mph driving as well as rolling take offs at any speed. Not so much that the truck got faster but it certainly got quicker...

not that I'm smashing the gas pedal, but when I wanted some speed, I'd press it and it was like the truck began computing a math problem before taking off???

My only follow up question is, are these sensors only perishable or can they be cleaned regaining their maximum effectiveness similar to the older MAF sensors I am more familiar with?

Oh and where did you source your parts? I paid quite a bit more for mine but honestly I didn't shop that hard and just wanted them quickly.

I sourced them from parts.ford.com. At the time they did free shipping no minimum (not sure if they still do)..

It may be possible to clean them ; I noticed the MAF sensor had plenty of oil on it so a caustic cleaner could mess with the plastic and rubber o-ring. Not sure if MAF cleaner or something would cut through the oil.

 

[RangerBill]

Greetings All,

Dropping another one of my write-ups. This time on our intake manifold MAPT (Manifold Absolute Pressure & Temperature) sensor.
When I was working on my bucking/surging issue by replacing the DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback) sensor, I figured why not go ahead and change the MAPT sensor as well since it is located right beside the DPFE sensor.

Supplies Needed :
-MAPT Sensor (Ford K2GZ-9F479-A) ($43 on FordParts.com and delivered to my doorstep less than 24 hours after ordering)
-3/8" or 1/4" Ratchet (Cordless Ratchet can be beneficial)
-T30 Torx Socket or bit
-Torque Wrench set to 53 in.lbs (6 Nm)
-LIGHT (Headlamp, Milwaukee Rover, etc)
-Work Platform or Step Ladder

STEP ONE :

Pop the hood and locate the MAPT sensor. It is located next to the DPFE sensor on the driver's side of the engine protruding from the intake manifold.

STEP TWO :

Remove the MAPT electrical connector. It works like every other connector on our truck; use your fingernail to slide the locking tab back (circled) and wiggle the connector off pulling towards you.

STEP THREE :

Use your 3/8" ratchet and T30 Torx Socket to remove the MAPT bolt. It is faster if you initially break the bolt with your ratchet and then remove it with a cordless ratchet. Be sure to either catch the bolt or finish unthreading it with your fingers to ensure it does not drop into the engine bay.

STEP FOUR :

Wiggle the MAPT sensor a little bit and it should pull right out. Ensure the orange o-ring did not become dislodged in your intake. My MAPT sensor had a light coating of oil on it, so I opted to clean the mounting hole out with a shop towel the best I could. Might have to invest in an oil catch can eventually..

STEP FIVE :

Install your new MAPT sensor. All it takes is a little push and you can rotate the bolt mounting hole where it lines up on the intake. Interesting enough my OEM MAPT sensor was manufactured in Mexico (MX) and the new one was probably manufactured by Bosch in Germany. I trust German quality more any-day.

STEP SIX :

Hand thread the T30 Torx bolt through the mounting hole into the intake to prevent cross threading the best you can. Lighty snug with your ratchet.
Use your Torque Wrench set to 53 in.lbs (6Nm) to finish securing the T30 bolt. It does not take much force at all to hear the click.

STEP SEVEN :

Plug the connector back on to the new MAPT sensor until you hear a click. Use your fingernail to push the locking tab forward to engage.

STEP EIGHT :

Crank your Ranger to see if a check engine light or any error message appears. Take a test drive around the neighborhood if desired. It could be placebo effect but I noticed a slightly better drive overall.
At the end of the day I believe replacing the DPFE and MAPT sensor was a one-two punch approach to help resolve any surging/bucking my Ranger had. I have always considered MAF (MAPT in our Rangers) to be a every five year maintenance item depending on cost and I will add this into my Ranger's maintenance routine for peace of mind.

That's it! Grab a cold one and enjoy a job well done!

Good write-up.

I would recommend adding a step. Clean the area around the sensor before removing it to prevent dirt entry into the intake manifold.

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