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Remote Transmission Dip Stick Aftermarket Support?

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Fitzmotor

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No, you would want the case hot and the cap cold, if you could chill the cap it would contract, but the space is so tight, getting nitrogen up there ain't happening, tapping it with a hammer can really help, also shocking it loose by hitting the wrench with a hammer is better than just yanking on it.
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Would using a heat gun help? Or a hair dryer? That cap is aluminum, right? Don't want to break it.
19mm open wrench and tapping end with small hammer...simulating a light impact wrench...
 

Figarou

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No, you would want the case hot and the cap cold, if you could chill the cap it would contract, but the space is so tight, getting nitrogen up there ain't happening, tapping it with a hammer can really help, also shocking it loose by hitting the wrench with a hammer is better than just yanking on it.

19mm open wrench and tapping end with small hammer...simulating a light impact wrench...

Ok thanks.

I'll be using a Dead Blow Mallet instead. Just to be on the safe side.


A dead blow hammer is a mallet-like tool used to absorb tremors that occur when the hammer strikes. It's a useful tool in that it prevents damage to soft surfaces, while reducing the amount of rebound and improving the striking force of the hammer.
 
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Ok thanks.

I'll be using a Dead Blow Mallet instead. Just to be on the safe side.
nononoooo...it's an aluminum cap on an aluminum trans...you're asking for a mess...

You're missing the point...light taps with a light hammer transfer many small impact to cap...rubber mallet absorbs the impact...but if it works for you...good luck...
 

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Ok thanks.

I'll be using a Dead Blow Mallet instead. Just to be on the safe side.
I installed mine today #40. And I tried getting it from the bottom that didn't work out. So I attacked it from the top with a bunch of extensions and a swivel on the socket and that worked out pretty well. It was still way too tight! I actually used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter. So I could use my half inch breaker bar. I also tightened the fitting on the transmission from the top using a 1 1/16 socket with a swivel.
 
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Figarou

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nononoooo...it's an aluminum cap on an aluminum trans...you're asking for a mess...

You're missing the point...light taps with a light hammer transfer many small impact to cap...rubber mallet absorbs the impact...but if it works for you...good luck...

Wait....isn't a dead blow hammer/mallet and a "rubber mallet" two different things?



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-48-oz-Dead-Blow-Hammer-48-22-9151/321180896


The Milwaukee 48 oz. Dead Blow Hammer provides maximum impact and the most durable handle in the industry. The dead blow delivers the highest impact with minimal effort when swinging. The Dead Blow has a steel reinforced handle core and its most durable handle is also resistant to peeling when exposed to solvents. The dead blow hammer's precision balanced design paired with the overmold handle and anti-slip grip offers more control when swinging the hammer.
 

Figarou

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I installed my mine today #40. And I tried getting it from the bottom that didn't work out. So I attacked it from the top with a bunch of extensions and a swivel on the socket and that worked out pretty well. It was still way too tight! I actually used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter. So I could use my half inch breaker bar. I also tightened the fitting on the transmission from the top using a 1 1/16 socket with a swivel.

I can't do anything until I get mine. I'll keep this in mind.
 

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Looks like mine arrives tomorrow! Perfect turkey day project…especially now that family isn’t until Friday.
 
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You do not want soft hammer, you want to shock with a sharp rap from a hammer.

Ok...just trying to prevent vibrations from going to my arm when I'm holding the wrench.

You should know what I'm talking about.
 

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That's what gloves are for!

So without getting complicated, it's easier to move something stuck with a rapid or quick type action, the slow application of force takes a higher amount of force to move a stuck object.
 

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And I will repeat advice that has been given here before - going in thru the fender well (pulling back the flap like the oil filter on the other side) provides a LOT more area to work in - Once I did that, it was relatively easy for me to get mine off.
 

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And I will repeat advice that has been given here before - going in thru the fender well (pulling back the flap like the oil filter on the other side) provides a LOT more area to work in - Once I did that, it was relatively easy for me to get mine off.
Breaker bar with 19mm socket and wheels full lock right ? That's it ?
Did you need a short extension to reach down to the cap ?
 

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Breaker bar with 19mm socket and wheels full lock right ? That's it ?
Did you need a short extension to reach down to the cap ?
I don't recall if I needed an extension - if I did, it was just a shorty. Turn the wheels to the left full lock to get better access.

Once I did that it was WAY easier - took me all of a couple minutes. My sausage fingers had trouble in the confined space otherwise. You go over the frame rail, thru the exhaust basically - it only works if it is cold - if it were hot, the cat would be tough to work around.
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