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What did you do to your Ranger today?

AndyMedic

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Very ambitious - good luck Andy! You’ll have forearms like Popeye from pressing on that roller. ?
I’ll get me a can of spinach before I start to help.
Hopefully this will help quite a bit. After removing the rear seat the noise became to much for my pup with the exhaust also.
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RedDakooter05

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Yeah, but what does the oil analysis say? Why don't you have that back yet? How much chromium and fuel was in the oil?

Did your transmission torpedo yet?
The oil was sparkly, so something will torpedo eventually...
 

Jhbryaniv

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Jhbryaniv

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KJRR

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airline tech

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Removed the full interior to do sound deadening tomorrow in the whole cab
Cool, this is on my - Things I want to do list, mainly the head liner, driving in the rain sounds like being in a tin roof barn.

But, while you are there, I was curious about mice entry points, since some have reported evidence at the center console and stowage areas under the rear seat.

Known - Positive / Proven entry point is the Air Inlet behind glove box, my theory is that is the only entry point, and they travel down the transmission hump (Valley - Under the Carpet) and stop at the open areas (Resorts) this being under the center console and go exploring further back and find the wide-open spaces in the cubbies under the rear seat.

Other Theories from members are - The Rear exhaust air grilles and the open holes in the cubby boxes. I am wanting to know if you see any other entry point from the exterior for mice other than the (Known / Proven One.
 

AndyMedic

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Cool, this is on my - Things I want to do list, mainly the head liner, driving in the rain sounds like being in a tin roof barn.

But, while you are there, I was curious about mice entry points, since some have reported evidence at the center console and stowage areas under the rear seat.

Known - Positive / Proven entry point is the Air Inlet behind glove box, my theory is that is the only entry point, and they travel down the transmission hump (Valley - Under the Carpet) and stop at the open areas (Resorts) this being under the center console and go exploring further back and find the wide-open spaces in the cubbies under the rear seat.

Other Theories from members are - The Rear exhaust air grilles and the open holes in the cubby boxes. I am wanting to know if you see any other entry point from the exterior for mice other than the (Known / Proven One.
I’ll take a look today as I install the material. I’m not taking the center console out though I don’t think I will get enough return for what is worth. You only need 80% coverage for a complete improvement in noise. The base is well padded also compared to the back is just the thin carpet so no noise reduction.

The rear vents are a possible point as mice are tiny. Doubtful as the flaps close and all but definitely could be opened if determined. I’ll snap some pics for you.

I think the main inlet would be from the front air intake for cabin air though.
 

subquark

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I cussed at Soupie a lot today. Well, actually not Soupie but at the McGard tailgate lock thing. =(

I really lost it when I nearly lost the special keyed driver. It bounced off the Race Deck floor and I thought it went into an open cinder block. The foundation of my garage are cinder blocks making a form for the concrete pad, but they are stacked three deep! No way I'd ever be able to recover that thing if it went down there. PLUS ... the keyed bolt was partly driven in and on the Loctite, so I needed to have that driver ...

Thank God (and I had already dropped to my knees with a flashlight and magnets) it rolled under the tire. Phew (and thank you God, I mean it!).

BUT ... what a gigantic pain in the butt it was to install that thing!

Once you see how it goes, then it makes sense but the B&W pics in the instructions are useless, at least to this old cranky fart. =p

I honestly think it would have been easier to do it with the tailgate closed. It would be far easier to drop the bumper!

okay, good start, all's here, I'm backed into the fairly well light garage on a 44° day
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first aggravation was peeling the backing off the "decal" they include, seems pretty useless ... note the tab on the far right pointing into the camera
20231112_120813.jpg


Cheech is too short to help, so I did this to support the tailgate (don't look at my plate #, oh no ...)
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ended up peeling the BedRug completely off the tailgate - removing the existing bolt easy with 10mm (!!!)
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duh, of course the driver is SAE at 1/2" ...
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ratchet too big, trying an offset ignition wrench
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thank God for the o-ring on the driver to hold it in a regular wrench (almost used new Knipex pliers wrench but was too aggravated to go to the basement bathroom to get it)
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did it one sixth of a turn at a time until it was as tight as I could push - done (now I can sleep better at night when leaving the tailgate open with a dump load, of course I then realize my tail lights might get stolen and don't sleep ...) =p
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For anyone trying to decipher this next pic, the tailgate is on the right and bed is on the left and the camera is facing out to the passenger side.

I held the tailgate open at about 45° with my hand holding the McGard bracket from underneath (arm outside of tailgate) and clipped the tailgate back in (I put the actual plastic clip on later).

Keep holding the bracket and close the tailgate. Then feel the bolt hole and line them up with your pinky. I started the bolt by hand for several turns (that was a tight fit with sausage fingers and more cussing).

Then I opened the tailgate and drove the bolt home (pic above). Btw, you don't need to unclip the tailgate cable.

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make sure this tab is visible here before moving the tailgate too much and before putting the bolt in
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Verdict: I don't know if I'd do it again, it would be a royal pain if you ever need to remove your tailgate for loading purposes. Also, if you're cool, calm, and collected, it'll probably be far less hassle than the 20 minutes I spent dorking around with it! =D
 

airline tech

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