Accidentally discovered a possible reason for bad K&N experience

[Cmar]

That's interesting as it doesn't say which side to oil. I am pretty sure there are other sources for proper oiling. I did see a video that shows a guy oiling the incoming air side. It just makes sense.
If you had a cone style filter you wouldn't oil the inside.
Correction, I read it wrong. It does say oil both sides. Huh? That does NOT make sense.

Once it soaks in does it make much difference anyway?
I've only used one K&N in my life and even then only because I owned a Japanese home market import 4x4, which used a different filter to the same model sold locally. (it was a diesel and local model was petrol only) The proper filter was really hard to find, and was really expensive, when you could. But I found a K&N from a different model which was a perfect fit. So I only bought it for the "reusable" factor.
I could never tell if it made any difference or not, a 4 cyl, 2.7 litre, push rod IDI diesel, can only go so fast. I did service it regularly though.

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[chrisakz]

They should make a 2 part filter for the Ranger for dusty conditions. Like a Donaldson system or a foam pre filter that can be washed or replaced. I work on and maintain commercial outdoor power equipment at work and they pretty much all have it and the pre filter takes the brunt of the dirt which is far more dust and dirt than will be ingested by an engine operating on paved roads.

 

[Cmar]

They should make a 2 part filter for the Ranger for dusty conditions. Like a Donaldson system or a foam pre filter that can be washed or replaced. I work on and maintain commercial outdoor power equipment at work and they pretty much all have it and the pre filter takes the brunt of the dirt which is far more dust and dirt than will be ingested by an engine operating on paved roads.

Yes even the old Briggs engine on my ride on had a foam outer sleeve over the paper you could remove and wash out, that trapped the worst of the dirt and grass.

 

[JohnnyO]

Can you attest to the cleanliness of the intake parts downstream of the filter? Just curious.

Never looked but I never had any problems or CEL’s. Cleaned the MAF once or twice with MAF cleaner spray just for the hell of it. That said, I detected no gain in performance or mpg, it’s just a matter that if you plan on keeping the vehicle a long time you’ll save money. Now the K&N cabin air filter, that could be the shiznit.

 

[got3fords]

Once it soaks in does it make much difference anyway?

Maybe not, but I let the filter sit all day while I went to work, and there were oil beads on top of the pleats. On K&N website it says the Ranger filter takes almost 4oz of oil for proper oiling. That's a lot of freakin' oil and I am not going to risk not following directions to a T and and having oil sucked off and into the engine. Like I said I turned it over and let it drop a couple of inches and multiple oil drops came off.

 

[Robert Scott]

No amount of engineering replaces dumb luck. Oiling the K & N filter regardless how careful you apply the oil still leaves a question in my mind " was the procedure I used absolute correct" My conclusion was NO! I found this out when the MAF sensor in my Corvette was slightly fouled causing grief with the computer. Quit screwing around, OEM is the real engineering decision.

 

[got3fords]

Quit screwing around, OEM is the real engineering decision.

Which leads me back to..., why does the K&N come with the Ford Performance kit? From Ford?

 

[MagnetiK]

Had bad luck with K&N filters on two cars. I stick with stock paper now.

 

[Frenchy]

Which leads me back to..., why does the K&N come with the Ford Performance kit? From Ford?

That is because they want you to get the most available power woth the tune. Also notice how the powertrain warranty goes from a 5 year 60K down to a 3 year 36K Warranty from the original purchase date of the vehicle. Things to consider

 

[got3fords]

When I installed the AEM I did a couple of finger swipes on the tube upstream from the filter. Clean as a whistle. That was 20k+ on the K&N. So I am not necessarily questioning their efficiency, just getting it properly re-oiled is my concern, and I don't want to worry about it anymore. So out with the K&N, in with the AEM.

 

[canyonslicker]

I use a shop vacuum to simulate the intake to make sure it’s not overly oiled. It takes just a few minutes.

 

[diesel924]

I use a shop vacuum to simulate the intake to make sure it’s not overly oiled. It takes just a few minutes.

Most of the very good shop vacs can move about 150 CFM of air. Our little 2.3 liters move around 500 at WOT so you're simulating idle or a little faster.

 

[canyonslicker]

Most of the very good shop vacs can move about 150 CFM of air. Our little 2.3 liters move around 500 at WOT so you're simulating idle or a little faster.

It’s worked for me for decades but maybe I just did right all of the time. I also use that method for drying out after washing.

 

[got3fords]

Most of the very good shop vacs can move about 150 CFM of air. Our little 2.3 liters move around 500 at WOT so you're simulating idle or a little faster.

Perhaps, but we're talking 150CFM in about a 2" diameter area, vs. 500 in what, 100sq.in.?

 

[diesel924]

Perhaps, but we're talking 150CFM in about a 2" diameter area, vs. 500 in what, 100sq.in.?

Still seems like a lot of hassle to have the 'K+N Equipped' sticker in the back window.

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