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JDowns

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Figured I'd share this here so its not lost in the "What Did You Do To Your Ranger Today" thread.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ranger-today.3511/post-357314

COB Strips can be found here.

The strips are 9.25mm wide and have a sticky back. You can source aluminum channel if your mounting method is different. Super Bright LED's has all sorts of profiles with end caps and covers. If you want waterproofing with a flexible sleeve.

All sorts of options out there for COB strips, crimp connectors if you don't like to solder, cabling. Y's, etc.
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Torrsall

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Figured I'd share this here so its not lost in the "What Did You Do To Your Ranger Today" thread.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ranger-today.3511/post-357314

COB Strips can be found here.

The strips are 9.25mm wide and have a sticky back. You can source aluminum channel if your mounting method is different. Super Bright LED's has all sorts of profiles with end caps and covers. If you want waterproofing with a flexible sleeve.

All sorts of options out there for COB strips, crimp connectors if you don't like to solder, cabling. Y's, etc.
Thanks for the link! I'm the FNG in a Ranger who's trying to add lights. After reading the attached article I'm wondering if there isn't a way to NOT run a wire into the cabin for low draw bed lights that don't need to be switched. I know the harness for the rear sensors and tow plugs runs down the driver's side frame. Can't I t-tap into something right there and save a trip inside?
Just a reminder that I'm the friggin' new guy so please be kind! And thanks!
 

treimche

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Thanks for the link! I'm the FNG in a Ranger who's trying to add lights. After reading the attached article I'm wondering if there isn't a way to NOT run a wire into the cabin for low draw bed lights that don't need to be switched. I know the harness for the rear sensors and tow plugs runs down the driver's side frame. Can't I t-tap into something right there and save a trip inside?
Just a reminder that I'm the friggin' new guy so please be kind! And thanks!
Please don't ever use t-taps for anything, unless you like chasing down electrical problems. T-taps are not a good idea to use ever, especially when you're talking about the outside of the vehicle. Moisture/water/crap will make its way into the strands of the wire if you use a t-tap, and will corrode the wire to the point it will need to be replaced. The reason for this is because a t-tap slices through the protective covering of the stranded wire, and offers no protection for the wire at all.
 

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Please don't ever use t-taps for anything, unless you like chasing down electrical problems. T-taps are not a good idea to use ever, especially when you're talking about the outside of the vehicle. Moisture/water/crap will make its way into the strands of the wire if you use a t-tap, and will corrode the wire to the point it will need to be replaced. The reason for this is because a t-tap slices through the protective covering of the stranded wire, and offers no protection for the wire at all.
Really appreciate the advice! Like I said...fng.
 

Danager

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Please don't ever use t-taps for anything, unless you like chasing down electrical problems. T-taps are not a good idea to use ever, especially when you're talking about the outside of the vehicle. Moisture/water/crap will make its way into the strands of the wire if you use a t-tap, and will corrode the wire to the point it will need to be replaced. The reason for this is because a t-tap slices through the protective covering of the stranded wire, and offers no protection for the wire at all.
Have you seen the BAMF connector that RedTek includes? Apparently you cannot solder in a vehicle anymore. So I’m not sure this is altogether a terrible alternative. No, I would not use this if exposed to the elements.

325B7107-93A6-4F07-A397-E06961678589.jpeg
36C71AAA-CFC0-4AAB-A89E-61FCE9A3D4CD.jpeg
 


P. A. Schilke

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Have you seen the BAMF connector that RedTek includes? Apparently you cannot solder in a vehicle anymore. So I’m not sure this is altogether a terrible alternative. No, I would not use this if exposed to the elements.

325B7107-93A6-4F07-A397-E06961678589.jpeg
36C71AAA-CFC0-4AAB-A89E-61FCE9A3D4CD.jpeg
Hi Dan,

It has never been advisable to solder in a vehicle...Ever! This has been covered many times before...NO solder...

best,
Phil
 

Danager

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Hi Dan,

It has never been advisable to solder in a vehicle...Ever! This has been covered many times before...NO solder...

best,
Phil
I understand the disadvantages. I read a back story you posted. For the record - not going to argue the results. I’ve done a fair amount of soldering in the aftermarket world. Don’t know of a resulting failure. None of those were race vehicles, or high test/high stress use.

I also have smoked side markers - so you know, I like to gamble sometimes ?
 

treimche

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Have you seen the BAMF connector that RedTek includes? Apparently you cannot solder in a vehicle anymore. So I’m not sure this is altogether a terrible alternative. No, I would not use this if exposed to the elements.

325B7107-93A6-4F07-A397-E06961678589.jpeg
36C71AAA-CFC0-4AAB-A89E-61FCE9A3D4CD.jpeg
That's just a glorified t-tap. Throw it in the garbage.

As far as soldering is concerned, I have been soldering wires in vehicles for over 20 years. Thousands and thousands and thousands of solder connections and never a failed solder joint inside a vehicle. All aftermarket accessories. You can use a military splice if you don't want to solder and it will be perfectly reliable.
 

Danager

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That's just a glorified t-tap. Throw it in the garbage.

As far as soldering is concerned, I have been soldering wires in vehicles for over 20 years. Thousands and thousands and thousands of solder connections and never a failed solder joint inside a vehicle. All aftermarket accessories. You can use a military splice if you don't want to solder and it will be perfectly reliable.
Boy, don’t let that other guy find out about your predilection for soldering.

Interesting fact - “glorified t-tap” was my nickname in high school.
 

SpazC

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Hi Dan,

It has never been advisable to solder in a vehicle...Ever! This has been covered many times before...NO solder...

best,
Phil
Ford sure is losing money by not selling their solderless chips and silicon board tech! That could save electronic manufacturers billions!

Proper soldering is present throughout every modern vehicle.

A proper soldering job isn't any more likely to fail than any other connection method. The issue is, most folks don't seem to have the ability to do it right. ( Impatient leading to cold solder joints, wrong choice in solder for the application, improper technique, ect ect ect)
 

micl9

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I too use solder on certain applications - usually when I make a lighting harness. it just makes a cleaner job. and agree on quality solder joints (I still struggle) and Phil's point for not soldering. But I account for both by not having them in critical paths, ie if the line fails nothing happens other than a light doesn't come on (headlight excluded! LOL). I guess you could argue a potential fire hazard in high voltage lighting applications, but mine tend not to be.
As for t-taps or auto-taps - AGREE! they suck and actually start a cut in the strands. I have switched to Posi-Taps. They make Tees,, Butts and water tight versions. Also make gold plated speaker versions for tapping into speaker wires for a Sub (for ex).
https://www.posi-products.com/index.html
1642428997765.webp
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