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What did you receive in the mail today for your Ranger?

RV Tony

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1. A tool kit from Amazon for removing trim panels and plastic fasteners.
2. A replacement plastic fastener.

NOTE: IF YOU INSTALL AN AVS “BUGFLECTOR II”, THE HOOD LATCH WILL PROBABLY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED AFTERWARDS. IF IT NEEDS AN ADJUSTMENT, THE SHROUD THAT IS INSTALLED OVER IT WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED. DON’T MAKE THIS MISTAKE BEFORE REMOVING THE SHROUD!

After I installed the AVS Bugflector II, discovered that the hood took too much pressure to close and latch because of the added thickness of the Bugflector which attaches underneath the hood. The hood latch needed to be adjusted, so I followed this excellent video which showed in the process how to correctly remove the plastic fasteners from the shroud that is installed over the hood latch. How To Adjust Hood Latch Height: 2019-2020 Ford Ranger 5th Generation - YouTube

I made the mistake of not paying close enough attention to the video and broke a plastic fastener by trying to remove it the wrong way. I tried to pry up the fastener from the base with a screwdriver without 1st getting the top portion up and busted the fastener. Couldn’t find these exact fasteners in several local auto supply stores so had to order an individual one from ebay. These are outrageously expensive even at Ford and you can only get them in a package of 4. Ford part #: W713610-S300.

These push pin plastic fasteners are properly removed by 1st inserting a narrow flathead screwdriver into the slot (see photo) between the top portion and the bottom portion of the fastener then gently prying this top portion up about 3/8" (don't force it). Then carefully use a catspaw (see in tool kit) to pry up the base of the fastener which butts up against the shroud.

It is important to mark the outline of the existing position of the hood latch mount before you loosen the screws to establish a reference point to work from. I moved the latch mount straight up all the way from its original existing position as far as it would go and this made my hood close and latch exactly right. Had a lot of fun doing this project and feel good about the outcome along with a lesson learned and the right tools for the next time :clap:

Bugflector 3.jpg


Bugflector 4.jpg


1618676715528.png


Panel removal tool (Amazon).jpg


Broken fastener on shroud.jpg


Broken fastener (closeup).jpg


New push pin fastener (closed) 1.jpg



1. A tool kit from Amazon for removing trim panels and plastic fasteners.
2. A replacement plastic fastener.

NOTE: IF YOU INSTALL AN AVS “BUGFLECTOR II”, THE HOOD LATCH WILL PROBABLY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED AFTERWARDS. IF IT NEEDS AN ADJUSTMENT, THE SHROUD THAT IS INSTALLED OVER IT WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED. DON’T MAKE THIS MISTAKE BEFORE REMOVING THE SHROUD!

After I installed the AVS Bugflector II, discovered that the hood took too much pressure to close and latch because of the added thickness of the Bugflector which attaches underneath the hood. The hood latch needed to be adjusted, so I followed this excellent video which showed in the process how to correctly remove the plastic fasteners from the shroud that is installed over the hood latch. How To Adjust Hood Latch Height: 2019-2020 Ford Ranger 5th Generation - YouTube

I made the mistake of not paying close enough attention to the video and broke a plastic fastener by trying to remove it the wrong way. I tried to pry up the fastener from the base with a screwdriver without 1st getting the top portion up and busted the fastener. Couldn’t find these exact fasteners in several local auto supply stores so had to order an individual one from ebay. These are outrageously expensive even at Ford and you can only get them in a package of 4. Ford part #: W713610-S300.

These push pin plastic fasteners are properly removed by 1st inserting a narrow flathead screwdriver into the slot (see photo) between the top portion and the bottom portion of the fastener then gently prying this top portion up about 3/8" (don't force it). Then carefully use a catspaw (see in tool kit) to pry up the base of the fastener which butts up against the shroud.

It is important to mark the outline of the existing position of the hood latch mount before you loosen the screws to establish a reference point to work from. I moved the latch mount straight up all the way from its original existing position as far as it would go and this made my hood close and latch exactly right. Had a lot of fun doing this project and feel good about the outcome along with a lesson learned and the right tools for the next time :clap:

Bugflector 3.jpg


Bugflector 4.jpg


1618676715528.png


Panel removal tool (Amazon).jpg


Broken fastener on shroud.jpg


Broken fastener (closeup).jpg


New push pin fastener (closed) 1.jpg


New push pin fastener (open).jpg
Paul
I have a 2020 Lariat I didn't have to remove my shroud to make the hood adjustment. I used a 5/16in open end box wrench on 1 side a 5/16in long socket on a 1/4 ratchet on the other side, with a zip tie around the whole latch to move it up ,it worked for me.
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egilbe

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Color samples for my Go Fast Camper. I picked the Basic Black to go with the Black Appearance Package and Tangerine tent with two Beef rack bars.
 

OrangeStreak

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Thanks Tony,
Before I pulled the shroud, looked very carefully around the latch mount opening and it didn't seem to be accessible for tools with the shroud on. Also, my shroud could not be removed the same way as the 2019 one was done in the video reaching through the grill. There might have been a change in the shroud configuration? So I went to my Ford dealer and asked a mechanic in the service dept. how to pull the shroud (which was done differently than shown in the video) so I could adjust the latch. In the process of showing me how to pull the shroud he explained how to adjust the latch but didn't mention that it could be adjusted without pulling the shroud. I assumed at this point that removing it was the right procedure.
Regards,
Paul
 

FoD

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1. A tool kit from Amazon for removing trim panels and plastic fasteners.
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1618676715528.png


Panel removal tool (Amazon).jpg
Got the same set of tools with all the fasteners version shortly after deciding to get the truck. I can vouch that they work as advertised on all the panels so far (dash, console, door, rear cab, C piller...).
 


Bluestem

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Holy o' f*** boys (pardon my AvE'ism). These got dropped by the Fedex guy today. I'm pumped, these things are beefy, can't wait to get them installed this weekend. Only about 4 weeks from my order date as well, I was expecting twice that.
IMG_20210419_191604.jpg
 

DrizzyDrake

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20210420_202916.webp

Disconnectable end links! Tried to find the original thread, but it seems it disappeared!

I have the link though: https://squaretailmfg.square.site/s/shop

Price is a tad high, but much better quality than other ones I've seen.. I can't wait to get these on and post some photos of with sway bar vs without.
 

AzScorpion

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Guess what's more expensive than most of the mods?

Kackafornistan!

Registration bill came in the mail

IMG_1609.jpg


:eek:
Ours is close to that too! We have a VAT tax but it decreases every year. Basically you pay next to nothing to drive a junker and get hosed driving something new.
 

Trigganometry

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Ours is close to that too! We have a VAT tax but it decreases every year. Basically you pay next to nothing to drive a junker and get hosed driving something new.
Massachusetts has yearly excise if you remember. Very high first few years on a new car. That’s on top of registry fees, sales tax and the myriad of other ways they get you.

The luxury tax is the one that burns my ass. So if you got something really nice with high ponies under the hood the bend over shaft meets you! ?
 

AzScorpion

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Massachusetts has yearly excise if you remember. Very high first few years on a new car. That’s on top of registry fees, sales tax and the myriad of other ways they get you.

The luxury tax is the one that burns my ass. So if you got something really nice with high ponies under the hood the bend over shaft meets you! ?
Yes I remember all to well. I buy a new truck every 3 years for business plus when times were really good back there I also had a new van. Then add my Corvette and motorcycle it was a big chunk of change to pay out just to drive on crappy roads! I swear it was smoother going off road than it was driving on the Main Street there. :mad: At least here the roads are like glass and the only bumps in the roads are the speed bumps. ?
 
 








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