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RANGER_MARC

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Looks really good Marc. How do you like the ride with the Fox kit? I really liked the way the RC kit raised and stiffened the front end up on mine.
Hey, Dave, yeah, I really like the ride with the Foxes, definitely more stable to drive, and I am loving the higher vantage point as well!
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rooster

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Did it firm up your front end a bit as far as ride? Are you an inch higher in the rear now?
I think it does feel better out front, including the steering which to me seemed notchy at low speed with the stock suspension/rake. I was just out cruising the local highways at 75-85 mph and it was nice and stable with as good as handling as you can expect from such a truck. On my Jeep the coil spacer budget boost seemed to give more room for tire but worse road manners. So I'm really liking these preload collars on the Ranger.

The rear stays the same, when lifting the front you are rotating the truck around the rear axle. In fact, tailgate load height dropped an inch an I believe.

One thing I'll say is the spring compression was a tough using DIY hook style compressors. I've used these with ease on my VWs but not here.... there is not alot of clearance between the ID of the spring and the boot/bump stop, it took a few times to get just enough compression with everything staying centered and not binding up. And with the preload collar in place they really need to be cranked down to be able to catch the first few threads to get the nut on. You will be at the point you think it's all going to explode in your face. If you have access to a shop compressor like a Branick or a local shop that can handle the springs I recommend going that route.

Aside from that, if the inner cv joint pulls out don't panic ... a little finesse with the rotating and shaking will get it back in.

Now, onto that bouncy rear end...
 

John Jenkins

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I feel as if I’m a bit stiffer in the front but still a nice ride. Right now my truck sits a 1/2” higher in the rear. And I could have run next size up in tires(33”) with no issues
 

Arch Stanton

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I think it does feel better out front, including the steering which to me seemed notchy at low speed with the stock suspension/rake. I was just out cruising the local highways at 75-85 mph and it was nice and stable with as good as handling as you can expect from such a truck. On my Jeep the coil spacer budget boost seemed to give more room for tire but worse road manners. So I'm really liking these preload collars on the Ranger.

The rear stays the same, when lifting the front you are rotating the truck around the rear axle. In fact, tailgate load height dropped an inch an I believe.

One thing I'll say is the spring compression was a tough using DIY hook style compressors. I've used these with ease on my VWs but not here.... there is not alot of clearance between the ID of the spring and the boot/bump stop, it took a few times to get just enough compression with everything staying centered and not binding up. And with the preload collar in place they really need to be cranked down to be able to catch the first few threads to get the nut on. You will be at the point you think it's all going to explode in your face. If you have access to a shop compressor like a Branick or a local shop that can handle the springs I recommend going that route.

Aside from that, if the inner cv joint pulls out don't panic ... a little finesse with the rotating and shaking will get it back in.

Now, onto that bouncy rear end...
Thanks for the review. By front and rear measurements I was referring to wheel well centerline to ground, usually about 3" higher in rear from factory, so assuming your are 1" higher in back now.
 


rooster

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Thanks for the review. By front and rear measurements I was referring to wheel well centerline to ground, usually about 3" higher in rear from factory, so assuming your are 1" higher in back now.
whoops sorry, I confuse easily! Yes now 1" higher in the rear ... front fender to ground will be in the range of 37" and the rear will be around 38".
 

Arch Stanton

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whoops sorry, I confuse easily! Yes now 1" higher in the rear ... front fender to ground will be in the range of 37" and the rear will be around 38".
Thanks, torn between the Eibach shocks at 2.25" and these 2"collars for $100 less.
 

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Thanks, torn between the Eibach shocks at 2.25" and these 2"collars for $100 less.
I just did the rear Eibachs this morning, signficant improvement overall, much more solid feel in the rear. If the fronts are just a good I might go that route eventually.
 

Lost19Ranger

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Ok guys I see a lot of 2.5” and a lot of 3” levels. What space do I need to go with? I just want my truck level lol. I don’t want my rear to squat but I’d like it level lol. Any advice would be appreciated
 

FULLSCALE

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Ok guys I see a lot of 2.5” and a lot of 3” levels. What space do I need to go with? I just want my truck level lol. I don’t want my rear to squat but I’d like it level lol. Any advice would be appreciated
3” if you want it level with the back. I went with the 2.25” Eibach setting to keep a little rake.
 

Lost19Ranger

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Thanks for the quick response, I’m still debating when I’m going to level the truck as I don’t want to buy a new set of tires lol
 

AzScorpion

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Ok guys I see a lot of 2.5” and a lot of 3” levels. What space do I need to go with? I just want my truck level lol. I don’t want my rear to squat but I’d like it level lol. Any advice would be appreciated
Just keep in mind that with the 3" level if you ever tow or haul heavy stuff in the bed now the front end will be higher. I went with the 2.5" level and it's only 3/8" lower than the rear,it still looks perfectly level by eyeing it.

I never intended to buy new tires either but if you're on here long enough you'll end up with them. lol I went with the 265/70/17 because there's no rubbing and you don't have to cut the crash bars.
 

Lost19Ranger

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Oh I know I’ll end up getting new tires but as of now I wasn’t to wear out the stocks lol. I Thinking of the 2.5 you both make a great point
 

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3” lift before and after lager tires on stock wheels
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