Aftermarket subwoofer

Wayne Kubeck

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That was me that mentioned that earlier...
I used retro rubber. Or butyl in between the factory plastic cubby and the 3/4” MDF and then screwed it together. Then used sound deadening material all around it. The box is 100% removable and can be pulled out in minutes. Speaker Input plug ins on the side. Couple more pictures on it back on page 2.
Looks nice, it seems like the Australian ones look to be a fiberglass mold of the factory cubby at 1st glance. After you used the cubby as an enclosure with the MDF on top does it just screw back in place? Or how is it held to the truck floor
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ColoRanger

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Looks nice, it seems like the Australian ones look to be a fiberglass mold of the factory cubby at 1st glance. After you used the cubby as an enclosure with the MDF on top does it just screw back in place? Or how is it held to the truck floor
The factory cubby has little clips that clip back in. Just holds in place but you can still pull it back out.
 

Zaph

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Update: the front speakers also generate the fake engine sound. Thought I read somewhere that only the rear speakers had the fake noise, but that’s not the case.
I was discussing the fake engine noise in another thread and one of the participants suggested the fronts run clean. To me it sounded like I actually heard more from the front though, What evidence have you found that the fronts have it too? Just an obvious rumble from your sub under throttle?

I haven't completed my install yet, only got as far as getting my parts ordered, so I'm at a disadvantage to what you guys are really hearing.
 

Kellan81

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I was discussing the fake engine noise in another thread and one of the participants suggested the fronts run clean. To me it sounded like I actually heard more from the front though, What evidence have you found that the fronts have it too? Just an obvious rumble from your sub under throttle?

I haven't completed my install yet, only got as far as getting my parts ordered, so I'm at a disadvantage to what you guys are really hearing.
I can hear the rumble when starting, idling, and accelerating and can confirm that this sound is generated from both the front left and front right channels. I can’t speak to whether or not they are quieter or louder than the levels that the rear speakers generate because I’ve never tapped into those for my line-out converter.
The good news is that most of this noise was being amplified because the gain on the line-out converter was turned up way too high. I’ve since turned the gain down and the fake engine noise is barely noticeable. This was running a 350 watt amp. I suspect the smaller the amp, the less noticeable the sound becomes. Some may not notice it at all. I’m using the $20 scosche line-out converter that you can get at your local supermarket and it works perfect.
Oh yea, interesting thing I learned the other day, the fake engine noise shuts off as soon as you open the door. I saw some post in which people didn’t think the fake engine noise existed; Maybe try running and lightly revving engine with the door cracked open then close the door and repeat....might be able to hear it with a stock system.
 

gwbillett

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That was me that mentioned that earlier...
I used retro rubber. Or butyl in between the factory plastic cubby and the 3/4” MDF and then screwed it together. Then used sound deadening material all around it. The box is 100% removable and can be pulled out in minutes. Speaker Input plug ins on the side. Couple more pictures on it back on page 2.[/QUOTE

I didn’t realize that plastic cubby came completely out.... this might be my ticket then b/c that is super easy to pull that out, cut a piece of mdf and some rubber seal.... then screw the plastic cubby to the underneath... will a regular 10 fit or does it still have to be a shallow mount? I guess I could even go with an 8 also..... now I’m gonna go take the truck apart....lol. I was looking at RF’s box with a 10” for $179. But this seams a little better.... plus it will should take about one roll of sound deadening I would think
 


nbeninati

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Can anyone actually confirm if there is any issues with the pioneer box and the seat?
 

rutherk1

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Can anyone actually confirm if there is any issues with the pioneer box and the seat?
The shallow pioneer ibFlat box going behind the seat?

You have to cut the carpet but it works. Also touches the seat slightly as well as cabin vent on the back so if you slam the seat there is slight risk of breaking a tab on the cabin vent and they are super brittle. I had that set up for a while then went to the under seat sub. Also had to get new back wall carpet since I had cut it. I like how I have it now quite a bit better. Plus you can use a conventional sub rather than a super shallow one.
 
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gwbillett

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The shallow pioneer ibFlat box going behind the seat?

You have to cut the carpet but it works. Also touches the seat slightly as well as cabin vent on the back so if you slam the seat there is slight risk of breaking a tab on the cabin vent and they are super brittle. I had that set up for a while then went to the under seat sub. Also had to get new back wall carpet since I had cut it. I like how I have it now quite a bit better. Plus you can use a conventional sub rather than a super shallow one.

So how are you liking the under seat setup? Did you use the plastic tub wrap in sound deadening or did you buy the one from AU.... sorry after so many post I not who is who....lol
 

sirgeorgee

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rutherk1

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Selling the truck so pulled out the box/amp and what not.
 

Racket

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Racket

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Oh yea, ended up tapping into the front door speaker wires to avoid the fake engine noise that the rear speakers generate. This was actually pretty easy. Just remove the passenger and driver side kick panels and you will see a couple of harness connections in there. Obviously the harness going into the door will be the one with speaker wires. The wiring diagram posted earlier in this thread, matched my color code exactly....and the pair of speaker wires will be twisted together. FYI, This is for the owners without the B&O system.
Update: the front speakers also generate the fake engine sound. Thought I read somewhere that only the rear speakers had the fake noise, but that’s not the case.
Ah, now I'll have to see if the rears introduce the noise. Suppose the open-door-while-running test will provide results?
 

Kellan81

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I believe others
Ah, now I'll have to see if the rears introduce the noise. Suppose the open-door-while-running test will provide results?
h
Ah, now I'll have to see if the rears introduce the noise. Suppose the open-door-while-running test will provide results?
i think it has already been confirmed by other members that it comes through the rear speakers
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