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What did you do to your Ranger today?

redone17

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The Scan Gauge 3 will monitor the factory sensors if available....
The Ranger does and the Gauge keeps track of trans and coolant temps.
Dang! That’s great. I didn’t realize the 10R80 has factory sensors. That’s great news. I was considering wiring one to the PPE pan…
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Ranger X3

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Hi all,
I had the Works done at the dealership today, and I asked for a quote for replacing the belt molding and the gasket around the door. 436 bucks for the parts and another 150 to install.? Does anyone have any experience installing these two items? With only an hour for labor, I figured it can't be that hard. I’ll be reaching out to Benny shortly for some better pricing.?


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airline tech

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I finally got around to installing my Seat Jackers to the driver's seat, I went the full 3/4 in with them.
Now I get to try to dial in the sweet spot for comfort.
I have only had them for a year :facepalm:

I am hoping this will help, for those that have the Lariat Leather seats, and you like the seat fully raised (me + short) legs I prefer the seat bottom to be fully tilted up, (Comfort zone with the close proximity of the gas / brake pedal) as far as my foot placement goes.

BUT - with the seat bottom raised up in the front and add in the FIRM (bottom cushion) it might as well be a wooden seat as I feel the sides of the cushion pressed into my leg, keys in the pocket enhances it and then add in an old bony butt and then wallet digs into the bone. (Grr)

So, with the Jackers, I am able to get the front lift (tilt) and keep the seat bottom tilt down in the front.
Now, I have not driven around yet, but hoping this will make it a more comfortable truck to drive, once dialed in.
I have driven an XLT, and the cloth seats are VERY different comfort wise, the seat bottom has more flex and cushion and molds your butt vs the Lariat (Pleather) is hard as a wooden bench.

I may if needed try to make a mat (cushion) that does not look aftermarket modded as another member did with a moving blanket. (I think)
 

airline tech

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Hi all,
I had the Work done at the dealership today, and I asked for a quote for replacing the belt molding and the gasket around the door. 436 bucks for the parts and another 150 to install.? Does anyone have any experience installing these two items? With only an hour for labor, I figured it can't be that hard. I’ll be reaching out to Benny shortly for some better pricing.? View attachment 202139
View attachment 202140 View attachment 202141

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It should not be that hard to replace yourself, I would have to look at mine, it should just press and possibility some addheasive (RTV) to secure it.

But I do suggest you go online and search for a cheaper price.
Ecxample: using the part #'s posted above
OEM Ford Parts Direct; Molding = $68.29
W/Strip = $157.92
 


9zero1790

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Hi all,
I had the Work done at the dealership today, and I asked for a quote for replacing the belt molding and the gasket around the door. 436 bucks for the parts and another 150 to install.? Does anyone have any experience installing these two items? With only an hour for labor, I figured it can't be that hard. I’ll be reaching out to Benny shortly for some better pricing.?


IMG_9567.jpeg


IMG_9565.jpeg


IMG_9564.jpeg
ive done that on a 4g ranger and it was not bad. had to remove the door panel and mirror first. took me about 40 minutes per side.
 

subquark

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I finally got around to installing my Seat Jackers to the driver's seat, I went the full 3/4 in with them.
Now I get to try to dial in the sweet spot for comfort.
I have only had them for a year :facepalm:

I am hoping this will help, for those that have the Lariat Leather seats, and you like the seat fully raised (me + short) legs I prefer the seat bottom to be fully tilted up, (Comfort zone with the close proximity of the gas / brake pedal) as far as my foot placement goes.

BUT - with the seat bottom raised up in the front and add in the FIRM (bottom cushion) it might as well be a wooden seat as I feel the sides of the cushion pressed into my leg, keys in the pocket enhances it and then add in an old bony butt and then wallet digs into the bone. (Grr)

So, with the Jackers, I am able to get the front lift (tilt) and keep the seat bottom tilt down in the front.
Now, I have not driven around yet, but hoping this will make it a more comfortable truck to drive, once dialed in.
I have driven an XLT, and the cloth seats are VERY different comfort wise, the seat bottom has more flex and cushion and molds your butt vs the Lariat (Pleather) is hard as a wooden bench.

I may if needed try to make a mat (cushion) that does not look aftermarket modded as another member did with a moving blanket. (I think)
I've had my Seat Jackers in place for over a year and also have them maxed out at .75". I'm 5'6" (lol, 5'5" at the end of the day). And it sounds like I sit like you do - and they continue to make it a comfy ride.

As for a seat cushion, we use these in our kayaks. It's turned a screamingly-achy-butt-after-fifteen-minutes to a two-hour-plus-cloud-like-cush-for-the-tush experience. It's pricey ($111) but I had a cheaper one that wasn't nearly as good.

I haven't used them in Soupie yet and we've been is as long as a nine-hour day trip (with short bathroom and fueling stops) without much of any discomfort with our XL seats, but these would certainly add comfort.

https://purple.com/seat-cushions/office-chair

After seeing the fit in Soupie, I'd probably go with their Ultimate Seat Cushion, which has a scooped out section for your tail bone and better Ranger seat coverage with 21.75" wide and 18" depth (both are 2" thick). This model is only one direction with a clear back and top. The Double we have could go either way (no tail bone scoop).

the Double set with the 18" going across the seat, covers most of the bolsters but is a bit short in depth, although you could push it forward an inch and still cover your arse and get more thigh support
20231213_155603.jpg


the Double set with the 16" going across the seat, bolsters are clearly visible but depth is better
20231213_155616.jpg


the bottom has some slightly grippy texture
20231213_155706.jpg


very soft individual "cells" but plenty of support overall and Made in the USA

20231213_155752.jpg
 

Venom_z89

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I finally got around to installing my Seat Jackers to the driver's seat, I went the full 3/4 in with them.
Now I get to try to dial in the sweet spot for comfort.
I have only had them for a year :facepalm:

I am hoping this will help, for those that have the Lariat Leather seats, and you like the seat fully raised (me + short) legs I prefer the seat bottom to be fully tilted up, (Comfort zone with the close proximity of the gas / brake pedal) as far as my foot placement goes.

BUT - with the seat bottom raised up in the front and add in the FIRM (bottom cushion) it might as well be a wooden seat as I feel the sides of the cushion pressed into my leg, keys in the pocket enhances it and then add in an old bony butt and then wallet digs into the bone. (Grr)

So, with the Jackers, I am able to get the front lift (tilt) and keep the seat bottom tilt down in the front.
Now, I have not driven around yet, but hoping this will make it a more comfortable truck to drive, once dialed in.
I have driven an XLT, and the cloth seats are VERY different comfort wise, the seat bottom has more flex and cushion and molds your butt vs the Lariat (Pleather) is hard as a wooden bench.

I may if needed try to make a mat (cushion) that does not look aftermarket modded as another member did with a moving blanket. (I think)
I’ve looked into those as well. They do look neat. They seem to put you in the ideal heel toe position. I’m 5'10" and have my seat front tilted to furthest highest point and isn’t ideal still especially for performance driving
 

redone17

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Oh yeah, I installed the driver side seat jackers after I got it back from the dealer on Friday. They replaced the driver side seat cushion under warranty since the seam was splitting after only owning it for 2 months. Pretty happy they covered that considering it came with 28k on the clock.

Huge advocate for DDI seat jackers. I believe they transform the driving experience. I don’t find the Lariat seats uncomfortable at all. But, having a brand new cushion is a bonus.
 

yuck6

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✅ Ready Lift Rear Intrusion Bars (fronts were done 2 weeks ago)
✅ Tremor Fender Flares
✅ Rokbloks XL Mudflaps (only got to the fronts)
✅ Tapped side marker wires to connect the backlight in the Diode Dynamics Elite Series Fogs (just need to pull the air dams back off and connect).

Another solid Modify Monday.
Got any pics of this. Sounds cool
 

Tremorky

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Got the Icom installed today. The mic is temporary until I find a better spot for it. I absolutely despise cables, so I need to figure something out. I’ll get a parts list and pictures of the antenna. I’m also working on a batter mounting solution for the face. The body is under the passengers seat.
I also moved the GMRS mic cable to the center console.
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This stays out of the way and does not interfere with the lid. I never used that cubby for anything anyways.
I’d like to have a mobile, but hate the idea of wires too…. That and ops in my area are too snooty to talk on 2m/70cm ?
 

Venom_z89

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Posted this a while back, installed a J&L oil separator.
1000004453.jpg

A member here said his mount broke 4 wheeling ?

Could have been a bad mount, who knows. However, it got me thinking about the precarious nature of the location they chose.

Should the mount give, or even the brass insert break out of the plastic stud on the top of the engine, there's really nowhere for it to go but into the serpentine belt and fan blades.

Wouldn't the hoses keep it out? You might ask and my answer is a pretty unconvinced maybe. Unmounted those hoses don't provide much support and to make the turn around the front of the engine there's enough slack to let it drop in with some jostling.

Especially if everything is warm and flexible. So I decided to move it.

1000004662.jpg

Here we are in the new spot next to the fuses and relay box for the upfitter switches in front of the battery. Used a piece of 1" square aluminum stock to position it properly.

Just removed the bracket first and drilled some holes for 1/4x20 hardware with nylok nuts and washers. By far the biggest pain was new hose. Buying it...easy, cutting the connectors out of the old hoses...easy. Getting the connectors IN the new hose, even with grease, good god what a pita.

But it's done and in a safer spot now.
1000004661.jpg
Hey yea that was mine. If you look at it it is flawed way too much weight dangling on a cheapo bracket. I really like how clean your install came out
You guys really are old aren't you.

?

The one thing about older vehicles (even as new as the 90's) is they were built with the intention of them lasting decades and being able to best on them. Now it's like you look at a vehicle wrong and some sensor breaks which triggers limp mode because owners need to be told not to drink battery acid... ?
Nah they’re all built with the intention of dying. This coming from a street racer/ tuner. Shoot in the 40s or 50s Edsel went under partially due to parts lasting too long. With that said tighter tolerances higher efficiency can equal to faster wear. I’m 35 btw
 

LawnMM

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Hey yea that was mine. If you look at it it is flawed way too much weight dangling on a cheapo bracket.
It's an aluminum bracket, might be metal fatigue, who knows ??‍♂ either way you were the inspiration buddy so thanks ? You got me thinking about it a bit and that's what lead to the move.

I even ordered a black plastic square cap (little bag of em off Amazon) for the barstock to clean that up a bit. I can still access the can easy by reaching down between the hoses.

Now with two 1/4x20 bolts going through the bracket, and holding it against the barstock, the whole thing should be stronger ? and ya know what? If it breaks it's got nowhere to go. The hoses are routed through others in the engine bay so it can't rattle it's way over and fall in.

It's going nowhere now ? maybe I should start selling mounts? ?
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