Washboarded Roads

[Blackeagle]

My drive out to go backpacking recently took me down a road with some long, badly washboarded sections. The ride was pretty rough (stock FX4 suspension and tires). Any techniques or mods that would make this kind of drive less punishing?

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[AzScorpion]

Throw the Fx4 suspension in the trash and get a good set like Eibach or Bilsteins. I changed mine out last year to these Eibach and it made a 100% improvement, especially with the rear end wallowing over the washboards. Also airing down (I go down to 18 psi) will help a lot too.

 

[Blmpkn]

More damping, more weight in the bed. Trucks are the worst on a true washboard because of their heavily front biased weight distribution.

 

[Toytec]

You mentioned long so what I would do is air down to 18. The low pressures would absorb most of it and your back teeth will thank you for it later.

 

[Frenchy]

First thing I would do is lower the tire pressure when going Off-road. About 16-18 PSI will make a difference. That said you will want a compressor to air back up before getting on pavement.

If that doesn't do enough and you don't have interest in a lift or leveling kit then I would replace the shocks and struts with Bilstein or Eibach (not the type that come with springs). Those should make enough difference for you.

 

[Ranger_Rocks]

+1 air down
My Toyo OC A/T III LT tires are normally at 37PSI which is bone jarring on washboard at any speed. Down to 25PSI makes a big difference. Toss in rocks and longer drives, then I run 18-20.

 

[JACKSMYDOG]

On top of lowered air pressure, increasing speed can sync the rebound rate to the frequency of the corrugations so you skim along the tops smoothly.

 

[Ranger_Rocks]

On top of lowered air pressure, increasing speed can sync the rebound rate to the frequency of the corrugations so you skim along the tops smoothly.

I find higher speeds work for a short distance, but when the washboard frequency/amplitude changes, then things get out of control and easy to go chattering off into the bushes.

Like Blmpkn stated above, the front weight bias responds differently than the unloaded rear end.

 

[Burnt Money]

I can’t agree more with what Dave said. Changing out the stock FX4 rear shocks was the best thing I have done to improve the ride. They helped the ride more than changing out the fronts. We have lots of dirt/sand roads around here. It made a huge difference. I went with the Bilstein shocks but I’m sure the Eibachs are great as well.

 

[JACKSMYDOG]

I find higher speeds work for a short distance, but when the washboard frequency/amplitude changes, then things get out of control and easy to go chattering off into the bushes.

Like Blmpkn stated above, the front weight bias responds differently than the unloaded rear end.

Sure, no fix is all encompassing, and your speed should always match the driving conditions. Corrugations are generally defined by vehicle speeds that created them, so don't often randomly change unless road conditions do. If you are on a 10 mile dead straight & flat road, they will often stay relatively consistent throughout. They will often change amplitude approaching hills or curves, at which time you should be adjusting your speed anyway.

Also the discussion isn't limited to unloaded trucks. My truck unloaded is 800 lbs over build weight. On back road trips when most will encounter washboard road, they will have a fully loaded box/truck. There are different options for different conditions, and rate of speed is a factor in controlling the effects of washboard.

 

[Joeiconic]

A washboarded road is most trucks’ kryptonite. Shocks help, but unless you do a full “baja” setup, it’s going to be a little rough. The stock springs in our truck don’t help any.

 

[CO2Ranger]

Same as what everyone else has said, and also the monoleaf spring design in the rear makes the wash boards significantly worse. A traditional leaf will help quite a bit in conjunction with the other suggestions, but it's not cheap!

 

[GTGallop]

Washboard sucks. Worst off road condition. Airing down is key. After that you need to change the suspension by replacing shocks and maybe springs or by putting some weight in the back. Also you can sometimes find the "resonant frequency" speed where your suspension smooths out going over them but be ware of speed. Once you start getting bouncing and rebounding tires, your ability to brake and steer is compromised.

 

[navsnipe]

I put Eibach's Pro-trucks (shocks only) front and rear on my Ranger quite a while ago. They definitely clean up the looseness the FX4 shocks have.

A word of advice for those who live in areas that use salt on the roads in winter. The Eibach shock bodies will look like crap in short order. They are not painted but have some kind of zinc coating. It don't think they will fall apart but if you want your truck to look sharp a painted shock body may look better longer.

 

[GTGallop]

I put Eibach's Pro-trucks (shocks only) front and rear on my Ranger quite a while ago. They definitely clean up the looseness the FX4 shocks have.

A word of advice for those who live in areas that use salt on the roads in winter. The Eibach shock bodies will look like crap in short order. They are not painted but have some kind of zinc coating. It don't think they will fall apart but if you want your truck to look sharp a painted shock body may look better longer.

Can you just put some Krylon Clear Coat on them prior to install and then touch up as needed?

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