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CompDude
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Depends on what filament you use and the environment the object is in. Most items are pretty durable..
Porpoise Hork
Well-Known Member
My youngest has a couple infinity fidget cubes made from PLA and PETG that her sister made in school last year. Both toys both have survived hundreds of hours of continuous use and countless drops onto tile, hardwood, and concrete and still going strong.
So if the right settings and filament is used about as tough as any injection molded toy these days.
Msfitoy
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I made a shield/support for my front camera...black PLA 100% in fill and pretty tough...
JaysOnTheEDGE
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I just got into the hobby myself got a Anycubic Kobra
Msfitoy
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I've been designing/building an inline duct fan ventilation system for my Ender S1...now I can print CF Nylon parts safely in my Man Cave...
JaysOnTheEDGE
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I have mine in an enclosure to keep my cats away and to cut down on odors it has windows i can stick a vent tube on if i ever need it. Right now, I'm just running PLA+ and want to run some stuff in PETG when I get a bit more versed.
my first attempt at a non-calibration object lol
my first attempt at a non-calibration object lol
Zetterbeard
Well-Known Member
I had a coworker print the oil funnel for me then I changed my oil this past weekend. Worked like a charm! Also have the ignition bezel, which makes a bigger difference than I imagined in clanking the keys around finding the slot.
Msfitoy
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I need one them Ford Funnels...but...experience tells me that proper fitting parts are sometimes hit or miss from Thingiverse...so I started one from scratch by measuring the actual cap...will print just the head and see if I'm doing it right before investing in the whole thing...it'll be printed upside down-neck up and won't need support...
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CompDude
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That's what I did for fit firstI need one them Ford Funnels...but...experience tells me that proper fitting parts are sometimes hit or miss from Thingiverse...so I started one from scratch by measuring the actual cap...will print just the head and see if I'm doing it right before investing in the whole thing...it'll be printed upside down-neck up and won't need support...
Did the variable layer in Prusa slicer fit great the first time.. used petg
Msfitoy
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I don't have PETG yet so I print PLA at %100 fill at 215C to get them to fuse solid...my front camera mount is holding up quite well...
P-38Ranger
Well-Known Member
I posted this a few weeks ago, and now cannot find it.
2022 Ranger Center Storage Divider.
The Range Center Console is nice, but deep, and therefore you end up pulling things out to find the heavy items at the bottom. I decided that I had the time and tools to make a divider that will keep the critical items that I need to get to locked in place, and accessible.
I printed this in grey because it takes better pictures installed than a matching black one would.
It is two pieces, two flat bottoms and is a nice snug fit. I did not try and duplicate the slight curve that the front and sides of the console has since what I store in the two boxes are not curved.
The top pen pocket could be deeper. The notches in the two corners are to clear the lid guide pins.
As you can see the tissue and Leatherman a nearly the same size. The ancient Kodak film container contains, coins, (once quarters, dimes and nickels, now quarters and dollars, but even these are nearly obsolete!
Print on my PRUSA was 19 hours for the two pieces. When done there was two feet of filament left.
The bend/warp in the riser is real. Had our first hot spell here this week. I may or may not put this in with VHB tape. May print with the riser a more density.
2022 Ranger Center Storage Divider.
The Range Center Console is nice, but deep, and therefore you end up pulling things out to find the heavy items at the bottom. I decided that I had the time and tools to make a divider that will keep the critical items that I need to get to locked in place, and accessible.
I printed this in grey because it takes better pictures installed than a matching black one would.
It is two pieces, two flat bottoms and is a nice snug fit. I did not try and duplicate the slight curve that the front and sides of the console has since what I store in the two boxes are not curved.
The top pen pocket could be deeper. The notches in the two corners are to clear the lid guide pins.
As you can see the tissue and Leatherman a nearly the same size. The ancient Kodak film container contains, coins, (once quarters, dimes and nickels, now quarters and dollars, but even these are nearly obsolete!
Print on my PRUSA was 19 hours for the two pieces. When done there was two feet of filament left.
The bend/warp in the riser is real. Had our first hot spell here this week. I may or may not put this in with VHB tape. May print with the riser a more density.
Legendarily-Epic
New Member
I recently designed a new USB fascia for the USB in the cubby under the radio/ac controls in order to use an aftermarket USB solution to tie into new aftermarket head unit. It's basically a copy of the stock fascia with a custom cutout for an aftermarket USB flush mount extension.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5428090
I printed in ABS as PLA doesn't seem to hold up to AZ summer cab temps while parked. I designed and printed a custom Shift knob/handle for my brother's Mazda Speed 3 in PLA and he drove home one day without a shift knob/handle because the PLA became soft and it came off. Now you can argue that a shift knob/handle gets a lot of stress and pressure applied to it vs. a USB fascia, but since then I've always gone safer than sorry. Plus I have a dedicated printer for ABS now. I print ABS on my Voron V0.1, and PLA on my heavily customized Ender3 Pro.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5428090
I printed in ABS as PLA doesn't seem to hold up to AZ summer cab temps while parked. I designed and printed a custom Shift knob/handle for my brother's Mazda Speed 3 in PLA and he drove home one day without a shift knob/handle because the PLA became soft and it came off. Now you can argue that a shift knob/handle gets a lot of stress and pressure applied to it vs. a USB fascia, but since then I've always gone safer than sorry. Plus I have a dedicated printer for ABS now. I print ABS on my Voron V0.1, and PLA on my heavily customized Ender3 Pro.
P-38Ranger
Well-Known Member
I am going to order ABS when I run out again. Do you print the ABS at a higher infill when using it in a car? I'll have to look up a Voron.
Porpoise Hork
Well-Known Member
Nice setup. Unfortunately where my printer is at I don't have any option for exhaust like that so I'm stuck with PLA and PETG.I've been designing/building an inline duct fan ventilation system for my Ender S1...now I can print CF Nylon parts safely in my Man Cave...
If you have not done so yet, you might want to upgrade the hot end. The stock heatbreak on the S1 has a PTFE liner in it won't last too long printing nylon. I upgraded my S1 Plus with this kit and used Slice's Boron Nitride compound with it. Since doing so no random extruder jams that the stock hot end had. Another benefit the bi-metal heatbreak does a fantastic job keeping heat in the hot end. So much so that the heatsink temp is just above ambient room temp (76F) running at 82-83F even after 8 hours of printing PETG at 245c on stock fans.
Another thing you can do once upgrading is flashing the firmware to get 300c hot end temps. Sadly there isn't a firmware update available for the S1 Plus yet. Not that it would do me any good since I am not printing ABS or nylon, but you could go carbon/nylon with your setup if you upgraded.
Edit:
Oh.. Almost forgot.. You may also want look into to swapping out the CR Touch for a BL Touch v3. Some tests are out showing that the CR Touch fluctuates in activation point when touching the bed by as much as 10% between detection points. This can lead to random inconsistent Z Offsets when printing. The BL Touch is far more consistent with a .001% variance. I would regularly have to adjust the Z offset on the first layer by as much as .15 when using the CR T from print to print. Even when repeating the same prints. This was resolved by swapping the CRT out for the BL Touch. It uses the same connector and mounting point. so takes about 2 min to swap.
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