Would something like this work to “T” off the cargo wire without cutting/splicing?I couldn't find any pics from when I originally did the install, so I went back in and took a couple. The cargo light wire is white with a green stripe, in the wire harness under the rear driver's side door sill. You'll want to test the wire with a multi meter because there are other white/green wires in the same harness. It will test as +12v with the cargo light on, and 0v when its off.
In order to get the wires into the interior of the Ranger, I used a rubber grommet that is in the floor. There are quite a few, but I used one that is just in front of the driver's side rear seat (my Ranger is a super crew)
PLEASE DON'T USE taps like that. They cut into wiring, which can easily damage it. I've been a 12 volt accessory installer for a long time, and have seen so many damaged wires from T-taps like that, it makes me cringe. If you don't have the tools or skills to solder connections, you can use what is called a Military Splice. Google it and see how it is done, it is very secure and works great.Would something like this work to “T” off the cargo wire without cutting/splicing?
I plan on doing this install in a few days ,
Going to run some rock lights to bed and also run 2 under each running board , hopefully all split right off that cargo circuit for complete courtesy light rig
I did end up with a 3.5" lift and level stance. Front to back is within 1/4" so I'm calling it good. I had to add quite a bit of preload to the Fox coilovers in order to get them up that high, but it still rides really nice. The front is a bit stiffer than it was when it was at the factory set 2", but it feels great.Did you get a 3.5 inch level stance?