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The wrong oil filter bought on Amazon destroyed my engine

Old NaCl

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Only ever had one filter come loose. PH8A on a inline 6 van, I was 8 at the time and did not use a wrench as the package said no. Now since then I've dented a few turing them on.
Ol cardboard under the vech trick works well for finding leaks.
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Zaph

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When installing it in April, It seemed to be slightly smaller that OEM, but that happens a lot so I didn't pay much attention to it.
Honestly, I would have freaked the hell out if the filter were not utterly exactly the same.

But for me, it would be the same, because it's OEM only, and original OEM part number only. OEM is the only filter I trust.

Side story: Many motorcycle club racing organizations and track day orgs that I have participated in have banned the use of any other oil filter than OEM. Quality issues and failures have actually caused crashes and serious injuries. The worst offender was K&N, and if you check your bike into tech inspection, the guys working it would point at it and say "Get that shit off your bike or go home." ?
 

Mokume

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Wanna invent some new words in oil filter access? Try it on a Pinto/Bobcat with a 2.8 V6, you can get a strap wrench in it, but you'll have about 2 degrees arc in which to swing the wrenches handle.

Granted, most of these vehicles have been recycled into your neighbor's Subaru, or the new washing machine you've been promising the Missus, but there's some still around.

More often than not I used to use a pinch bar, puncture the filter with it and use the bar as a lever. of course you are committed to getting the filter off then.

I didn't find the filter location on my '20 Lariat difficult at all, at least I don't have to raise the truck as I did with my '00 Ranger with the 4.0 Cologne V6.

You could not GIVE me any Fram product, along with the in-house brands from O'Reilly or Autozone.

Tough lesson to learn, but that's how we humans learn... :like:
 

LANDCRUISER

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Last Friday my wife was driving our 2020 Ranger XLT when the oil pressure light came on and she pulled over immediately as the truck shut off. Upon arriving to where she was, I saw there was no oil on the dipstick. I had brought along two quarts just in case, and put them in the truck, they promptly flowed right back out again. I pulled the rubber flap off in the driver's side front wheel to look at the oil filter and it had come off the truck and was laying in the inner well. I had changed the oil myself four months earlier and had bought the oil filter off Amazon, a Fram that Amazon set "Fit my vehicle". When installing it in April, It seemed to be slightly smaller that OEM, but that happens a lot so I didn't pay much attention to it. I went down to the Auto Parts store, bought a new OEM Motorcraft oil filter / 6 quarts and figured it would start right up after all was put together again. It did not, the battery was fine but the engine would not turn over. I had the Truck towed to the local Ford dealer.

Three days later they called me up with the bad news, my engine was seized. I went up to look at it put a breaker bar on the nut on the harmonic balancer and it would not budge. A new Long Block with labor was $ 13,500 installed. I said "Why a Long Block? This truck has only 13,200 miles on it, let's price out a short block and move the components over." Their lead mechanic said we could do that, but once he gets into the engine the Turbo will likely be fried from oil starvation, the cam journals ruined, passageways problematic, he didn't recommend it.

I paid $ 31,500 for this truck new two years ago, before pandemic pricing cranked the prices up. It's a company truck, so I was able to Section 179 Deduction on it back then, Both my wife and I really like the Ranger and its been super solid. I'm not big on junkyard engines, so did I want to spend $ 13,500 and have it down for a month to fix it? The dealer had a exactly one new Ranger on the lot, the limited edition "Snow" in the Avalanche color (Lariat) and I had them put a number on the 2020 with the locked up engine towards the MSRP on their new one. I was expecting the dealer to offer $ 8K to $ 10K on the truck, instead they told me $ 17K towards the new 2022, so I took the deal and can Section 179 Deduct the new one in my business as well. No headache on engine replacement and no down time.

I researched that oil filter from Amazon that "Fit my Truck" in the Amazon Garage. Turns out it's a Honda Civic oil filter and fits a few Hyundais and Toyotas as well. Obviously. the thread pitch was different and over those four months vibration loosened it enough to come off the engine. I went back to Amazon and see that it no longer lists that oil filter as fitting a 2020 Ranger, but I cannot prove that it did back in April when I purchased it, either. This was an expensive lesson to ALWAYS double check your oil filter fitment when going cross brand and doing it yourself. If it is not the same exact size, or the threads don't feel right, stop and check. I've done probably 1,000 oil changes in 50 years on all sorts of equipment, never had this happen before but you can be sure I won't trust third party oil filters to fit based on a website any more.

It's not all bad though, I got a new and nicer Ranger. Still the best truck in class even if it does have an oil filter access point that clearly was an afterthought.

IMG_8697.jpeg
Many years ago I was working in a garage that did oil changes as well as most maintenance items. After I changed the oil/filter on a car the lifters were very loud
when I started it up to check for any leaks.
I had put a Fram oil filter on it. We received the Motors Manual for maintenance news
and in the latest issue they reported that many Fram filters were counterfit, made in China.
After replacing that filter the lifters were silent. Took the Fram apart and the filter paper had Chinese writing all over it.
Fram still makes some in China but I'm sure they have improved their filters.
 

Cwalker

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Last Friday my wife was driving our 2020 Ranger XLT when the oil pressure light came on and she pulled over immediately as the truck shut off. Upon arriving to where she was, I saw there was no oil on the dipstick. I had brought along two quarts just in case, and put them in the truck, they promptly flowed right back out again. I pulled the rubber flap off in the driver's side front wheel to look at the oil filter and it had come off the truck and was laying in the inner well. I had changed the oil myself four months earlier and had bought the oil filter off Amazon, a Fram that Amazon set "Fit my vehicle". When installing it in April, It seemed to be slightly smaller that OEM, but that happens a lot so I didn't pay much attention to it. I went down to the Auto Parts store, bought a new OEM Motorcraft oil filter / 6 quarts and figured it would start right up after all was put together again. It did not, the battery was fine but the engine would not turn over. I had the Truck towed to the local Ford dealer.

Three days later they called me up with the bad news, my engine was seized. I went up to look at it put a breaker bar on the nut on the harmonic balancer and it would not budge. A new Long Block with labor was $ 13,500 installed. I said "Why a Long Block? This truck has only 13,200 miles on it, let's price out a short block and move the components over." Their lead mechanic said we could do that, but once he gets into the engine the Turbo will likely be fried from oil starvation, the cam journals ruined, passageways problematic, he didn't recommend it.

I paid $ 31,500 for this truck new two years ago, before pandemic pricing cranked the prices up. It's a company truck, so I was able to Section 179 Deduction on it back then, Both my wife and I really like the Ranger and its been super solid. I'm not big on junkyard engines, so did I want to spend $ 13,500 and have it down for a month to fix it? The dealer had a exactly one new Ranger on the lot, the limited edition "Snow" in the Avalanche color (Lariat) and I had them put a number on the 2020 with the locked up engine towards the MSRP on their new one. I was expecting the dealer to offer $ 8K to $ 10K on the truck, instead they told me $ 17K towards the new 2022, so I took the deal and can Section 179 Deduct the new one in my business as well. No headache on engine replacement and no down time.

I researched that oil filter from Amazon that "Fit my Truck" in the Amazon Garage. Turns out it's a Honda Civic oil filter and fits a few Hyundais and Toyotas as well. Obviously. the thread pitch was different and over those four months vibration loosened it enough to come off the engine. I went back to Amazon and see that it no longer lists that oil filter as fitting a 2020 Ranger, but I cannot prove that it did back in April when I purchased it, either. This was an expensive lesson to ALWAYS double check your oil filter fitment when going cross brand and doing it yourself. If it is not the same exact size, or the threads don't feel right, stop and check. I've done probably 1,000 oil changes in 50 years on all sorts of equipment, never had this happen before but you can be sure I won't trust third party oil filters to fit based on a website any more.

It's not all bad though, I got a new and nicer Ranger. Still the best truck in class even if it does have an oil filter access point that clearly was an afterthought.

IMG_8697.jpeg

[/QUOTE]
 


Mokume

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Many years ago I was working in a garage that did oil changes as well as most maintenance items. After I changed the oil/filter on a car the lifters were very loud
when I started it up to check for any leaks.
I had put a Fram oil filter on it. We received the Motors Manual for maintenance news
and in the latest issue they reported that many Fram filters were counterfit, made in China.
After replacing that filter the lifters were silent. Took the Fram apart and the filter paper had Chinese writing all over it.
Fram still makes some in China but I'm sure they have improved their filters.
The only filters I use are either OEM or Wix, nothing else...

Trivia here, who remembers the aftermarket oil filter setups in which a toilet paper roll was used as the filtering medium?

I wonder how many engines that engineering gem destroyed...
 

LANDCRUISER

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Yeah, I've come to not exactly "rely" on the Ford parts guy either. That's why I pay fairly close attention to what YOU GUYS buy and put on your trucks so I know what to look for when I want something Ford branded...to be sure it fits in real life and not just on a parts computer page.
The only filters I use are either OEM or Wix, nothing else...

Trivia here, who remembers the aftermarket oil filter setups in which a toilet paper roll was used as the filtering medium?

I wonder how many engines that engineering gem destroyed...
If you google cross ref for Motor Craft FL910S they list 312 filters that will work, OEM for me!
 

Mokume

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If you google cross ref for Motor Craft FL910S they list 312 filters that will work, OEM for me!
I cannot fathom why anyone would want to cheapen out when it comes to a critical part such as an oil filter.

As the adage goes: "You can pay me now, or pay me later"...
 

J Haggerty (RADAR1)

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In my younger days I would mostly use Fram oil filters.
Now that I'm older and wiser, I like to stick to OEM filters. Using my FordPass rewards to buy the OEM Ford filter makes it painless with the Ranger.
 

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The only filters I use are either OEM or Wix, nothing else...

Trivia here, who remembers the aftermarket oil filter setups in which a toilet paper roll was used as the filtering medium?

I wonder how many engines that engineering gem destroyed...
Is J.C. Whitney still in business? :wink:
 

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Only ever had one filter come loose. PH8A on a inline 6 van, I was 8 at the time and did not use a wrench as the package said no. Now since then I've dented a few turing them on.
Ol cardboard under the vech trick works well for finding leaks.
It also says to wipe a thin film of new oil on the face of the rubber seal before installing, but almost nobody ACTUALLY reads the entire set of instructions. But I am an unusual sort of fellow. I read stuff.

I have seen some packages suggest turning the filter 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after seal contact. That has always worked for me. Never had one fall off. Never had one leak. And never had to destroy the filter getting it off again. Oil the gasket.

I always buy Purolator or OEM, ever since I saw an article where some OTHER unusual fellow cut open a whole slew of filters and posted the photos on teh Interwebz... (Bob's the Oil Guy, I think)

I think I read a post in this thread that said the OEM Motorcraft ARE Purolator manufactured. I would Believe that, and would have have no issues with installing a Motorcraft, but my limited experience with dealer supplies is they NEVER cut you a break on price. I was quoted $15 for a filter once (Ford Dealer - Mustang 4-cyl). Took a pass on THAT. Also, If they Purolator is making them with the FOrd name, they make them to Ford specs, so they are NOT necessarily the same as the Aftermarket item. So did Ford spec them UP to make them MORE effective? ... or Down to save cost? You be the judge.

I always preferred to get the PureOne spec filter. 99.9% filteration vs 97.5% for the standard. The Boss is more expensive, but it looks like it has same filtration specs with less flow restriction due to additional filter media.

And NEVER Fram. And by the way, make sure the OLD gasket comes off with the old filter. Double gaskets leak (or worse, split and fall off, leaving the filter loose).

Agh. Sorry for the wall of text...
 

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Honestly, I would have freaked the hell out if the filter were not utterly exactly the same.

But for me, it would be the same, because it's OEM only, and original OEM part number only. OEM is the only filter I trust.

Side story: Many motorcycle club racing organizations and track day orgs that I have participated in have banned the use of any other oil filter than OEM. Quality issues and failures have actually caused crashes and serious injuries. The worst offender was K&N, and if you check your bike into tech inspection, the guys working it would point at it and say "Get that shit off your bike or go home." ?
A few cars got destroyed because of the K&N filters with the nut on the end, the welds around the nut would leak and cars ran out of oil.
 

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Only ever had one filter come loose. PH8A on a inline 6 van, I was 8 at the time and did not use a wrench as the package said no. Now since then I've dented a few turing them on.
Ol cardboard under the vech trick works well for finding leaks.
Remember the good ole PH8A well now that you jogged my memory. My very first car was a '66 Fairlane w/C code 289..... (2bbl). Will always have fond memories..... Correct color - body - wheels - hubcaps except mine didn't have the R code 427 and fiberglass hood.... :)

1966-ford-fairlane-r-code-clone-2-door-sedan-11.jpeg
 

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