The clunk is back!

[ScarzRanger21]

Clunking noise in front end came back a few days after changing control arms and ball joints… It was driving fine for a few days but now that noise is back! I’m also noticing some wandering and sticking in the steering. When driving on a straight road, it wants to track left or right. When taking corners, steering wheel sticks a bit and I have to pull it out of wanting to keep turning.

Got some new wheels, new tires, and alignment last week. If anything, that should make the handling better instead of worse. Looks like I’m replacing tie rods and sway bar links next… At this point, I’m just throwing parts at the truck hoping to solve the issue. Thought the new control arms did the trick. Negative. ?

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[Bob902]

Make sure your sway bar end links are tight.

 

[ScarzRanger21]

Make sure your sway bar end links are tight.

They are. I’ve gone through and checked the torque on everything several times. It’s also been to a few different mechanics and they’ve confirmed that everything is torqued correctly.

Before it was just the noise and I didn’t notice any issues with handling. Now that I’m starting to feel feedback in the steering, I’m thinking it’s most likely tie rods that are the culprit. Figured I might as well replace sway bar links too since I’ll be under the truck anyway.

 

[Rp930]

Why is the steering “sticking”? I would be looking into that first.

 

[ScarzRanger21]

Why is the steering “sticking”? I would be looking into that first.

I would assume the inner tie rods are either worn out or there’s a problem with the rack and pinion steering system. Everything I’ve read online says a clunking or popping sound accompanied by poor steering is most likely tie rods.

At this point, that makes the most sense to me since everything else except the swaybar links have been replaced.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

check the upper control arm bolts that go to the frame (the really, really long one). If its loose, it will clunk when things are moving but when static (truck isn't moving) will seem fine. Jack up the front wheels and give it a good shake, you will be able to see it move when there is no weight on the front end.

Ask me how I know...

 

[tcour]

Similar situation that we finally threw the correct part at - lifted, larger tires, UCAs, etc and developed the everlasting clunk. Replaced ball joints, tie rods, sway links, then bought a set of chassis ears to track down the noise. Ended up being lower control arms ? Was only the passenger side that was clunking but replaced both with RockAuto specials and the clunk went away, been about 6 months still running smoooooth. Your mileage may vary, but worth checking out. Good luck, the clunk drove me nuts!

 

[Rp930]

I would assume the inner tie rods are either worn out or there’s a problem with the rack and pinion steering system. Everything I’ve read online says a clunking or popping sound accompanied by poor steering is most likely tie rods.

At this point, that makes the most sense to me since everything else except the swaybar links have been replaced.

Never seen it happen but something is wrong.

 

[ScarzRanger21]

check the upper control arm bolts that go to the frame (the really, really long one). If its loose, it will clunk when things are moving but when static (truck isn't moving) will seem fine. Jack up the front wheels and give it a good shake, you will be able to see it move when there is no weight on the front end.

Ask me how I know...

Those are tight. Just installed new UCA’s last week.

 

[ScarzRanger21]

Similar situation that we finally threw the correct part at - lifted, larger tires, UCAs, etc and developed the everlasting clunk. Replaced ball joints, tie rods, sway links, then bought a set of chassis ears to track down the noise. Ended up being lower control arms ? Was only the passenger side that was clunking but replaced both with RockAuto specials and the clunk went away, been about 6 months still running smoooooth. Your mileage may vary, but worth checking out. Good luck, the clunk drove me nuts!

How hard was that to do? I’ve replaced the lower ball joints but not the control arms themselves.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

Those are tight. Just installed new UCA’s last week.

Did you torque them with the vehicle under its own weight?

 

[tcour]

How hard was that to do? I’ve replaced the lower ball joints but not the control arms themselves.

I'm lucky enough to have a buddy that's a fleet mechanic for the city so he has a lift and full shop at his house. It was easy given all that, if you are doing this in the driveway I can't really comment of level of difficulty. Trying to keep alignment close was a pain in the ass but you can get it close enough to drive to an alignment shop safely

 

[ScarzRanger21]

I'm lucky enough to have a buddy that's a fleet mechanic for the city so he has a lift and full shop at his house. It was easy given all that, if you are doing this in the driveway I can't really comment of level of difficulty. Trying to keep alignment close was a pain in the ass but you can get it close enough to drive to an alignment shop safely

Guess I’m about to find out. Back on the jack stands she goes! For the 20th time lol

 

[Colo_Ranger]

Guess I’m about to find out. Back on the jack stands she goes! For the 20th time lol

That's part of the fun. I am contemplating taking out the suspension I just installed so I can install some tophat spacers. lol.

 

[airline tech]

Its sometimes difficult to T/Shoot - Steering issues and can be very frustrating.

I am thinking the Inner Tie Rods are good, as they would have found play when on the rack with inspections.

They would also be able to note - Lower Control Arm bushings - play as long as they were inspecting for it.
Use a prybay and inspect for movement of the control arm some movement is ok, but the key is - does it flex back into position
another way to do it, is wheels on the ground
have a helper turn the wheel side to side, note any (play) movement in the bushings, also you may try placing your hand on the sway bar links and see if you can feel any (vibration) feedback as the link is moving.

I am thinking the issue is with the - Sway Bar End Links, binding under a load and (in turn) pivots on the ball joint end of the link.
You could disconnect them and take it for a short drive and note any difference as a possible elimination of the noise.

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