Some things I've learned about towing a travel trailer

[allcos]

Please add, advise, and/or correct the following comments:
I feel that the vast majority of information on getting involved with just about anything is now available by searching the web; however the last little bit can be SO compromising.
I bought a new Casita travel trailer and found out:
1) the light switch on the Ranger dash must be set to Standard (non-automatic) lighting or the trailer lights won't come on. (Didn't find that information in the manual)
2) the 7 pin must be plugged into the tow vehicle and then be put in gear and moved to activate the +12V connection in the 7 pin plug/outlet. (I was about to tear the truck apart to find out why it didn't work).
3) I bought a Redarc Liberty brake controller and wired it according to views on 'You-Tube'. Then I found out about needing to wire the brake signal wire to the cab third brake light instead of the flying lead under the dash. Or buy the diode from Redarc and connect it to the tail light connection. (Didn't find that information at Redarc). You don't have to pull all the panels and liner out, just tap into the yellow/gry stripe (chk if voltage only present when the brake is pressed) located behind the rear bottom back kick panel.
4) our Rangers put out Alt voltages for an AGM battery. My travel trailer has a LFP (lithium/iron/Phosphate) which NEEDS a different charging set-up. I added a DC-DC/MPPT (LFP selectable) charger in my trailer.

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[k1w1t1m]

This might need moved to the towing section. Some of us have been finding out little bits and pieces for 5 or so years. Mostly because Ford would rather sell F150s and Mavericks in NA and haven't really been serious about the Ranger.

 

[Cmar]

1 Yes I found that out too!
2 Not sure about that, I hooked mine up and it just worked so never looked into it any further, might be the case though.
3 Some naughty (or old skool) person who had the truck before me had already tapped into the brake switch wire near the brake pedal, so I used that for the signal. In my model you are supposed to use either the stop light connection or a signal tab on the BCM. They even provide an extra terminated wire from the stop light in the factory harness don the back for the purpose. I also used a Redarc unit. (Redarc Tow Pro Elite)

 

[allcos]

This might need moved to the towing section. Some of us have been finding out little bits and pieces for 5 or so years. Mostly because Ford would rather sell F150s and Mavericks in NA and haven't really been serious about the Ranger.

I think it's best in the general topics because it may help others at the front end of dealing with towing predicaments

 

[allcos]

1 Yes I found that out too!
2 Not sure about that, I hooked mine up and it just worked so never looked into it any further, might be the case though.
3 Some naughty (or old skool) person who had the truck before me had already tapped into the brake switch wire near the brake pedal, so I used that for the signal. In my model you are supposed to use either the stop light connection or a signal tab on the BCM. They even provide an extra terminated wire from the stop light in the factory harness don the back for the purpose. I also used a Redarc unit. (Redarc Tow Pro Elite)

3) I initially used one of the four flying leads from under the dash. My knob on the BC kept flashing green/or blue all the way home from Texas. No red light when applying the brakes. The brakes pedal switch doesn't apparently work the way you and I think it works. I think they now work by pulses, so NO 0-12V variable.

 

[Cmar]

The main issue I've had has been bad connections on the flat 7 pin plug. I ended up wrapping some really fine wet'n dry paper around an ear cleaner, and cleaning out the sockets on the car they seem to accumulate dirt and green corrosion. Doesn't hurt to give the plug pins a clean either.
Although we do use 12 pin plugs as well, a more popular choice over here is to use a seven pin and power the caravan 12 volt 3 way fridge through a separate line with an Anderson plug wired direct back to the truck battery. They can carry much more current and my fridge actually works fairly well even on 12 volts whilst traveling. I ran mine back through the chassis and terminated it nest to the trailer plug.
I used a 30A circuit breaker in the line to protect the system from shorts. Mustn't forget to disconnect though if stopping for some time as a 3 way fridge will rapidly flatten a battery. One of these days I'll fit a voltage sensing relay into the circuit to stop that.

 

[RangerBill]

2) the 7 pin must be plugged into the tow vehicle and then be put in gear and moved to activate the +12V connection in the 7 pin plug/outlet. (I was about to tear the truck apart to find out why it didn't work).

I believe if the engine is running and you press the brake pedal once, the 12 volts is activated at the 7-pin plug. Try it and see if it works without moving the truck.

 

[Cmar]

I believe if the engine is running and you press the brake pedal once, the 12 volts is activated at the 7-pin plug. Try it and see if it works without moving the truck.

Yes that was my thought too, but like I said, mine just worked out of the box so I didn't stuff around with it. However it's entirely possible that is exactly what I did, it was 5 years ago now I can't remember for sure.

 

[JohnnyO]

My recent towing adventure two weeks ago.
Camping and a little off-roading with another Ranger club I belong to. Totaled about 500 miles from Pittsburgh to the southeast corner of WV.
I was going to tent it as usual but the wife wanted to go and rented a camping trailer, about 20' long and 3800 lb. Bigger than we needed but it was local. The Ranger had no trouble towing it, heck I was passing semis on the hills.
Weight equalizing hitch. Got a Curt Echo brake controller since I may not ever need it again. Didn't see the point in going to the expense of hard-wiring a brake controller. The Curt Echo worked fine.
I learned that you can't set up the Curt Echo until the trailer is plugged into it, engine running, and the Tow/Haul button is on. Curt tech support said all late-model Ford trucks are like that. Remember my trailer was a rental so I couldn't do that until I picked it up.
I have a jet ski so although the camper was bigger I know how to back up a trailer so no issues there.
Ran 93 octane all the way, owner's manual says to use premium when towing. Averaged 12.8 mpg.
The only thing I would add if I did again would be towing mirror extensions since the trailer was wider than the Ranger. Hard to tell if anyone was behind me when I was going straight ahead.

 

[Big Blue]

Please add, advise, and/or correct the following comments:
I feel that the vast majority of information on getting involved with just about anything is now available by searching the web; however the last little bit can be SO compromising.
I bought a new Casita travel trailer and found out:
1) the light switch on the Ranger dash must be set to Standard (non-automatic) lighting or the trailer lights won't come on. (Didn't find that information in the manual.

My headlight switch lives in the AUTO position and my trailer lights work perfectly fine. Yes the trailer marker/running lights will not come on until the truck turns on the headlights. This is normal. If you want the trailer marker lights on during the day, use Forscan to modify the DRLs to include the parking lights. I have done this on mine.

2) the 7 pin must be plugged into the tow vehicle and then be put in gear and moved to activate the +12V connection in the 7 pin plug/outlet. (I was about to tear the truck apart to find out why it didn't work).

You do not have to put it in gear and move the truck. Just have the trailer plugged in with truck running and hit the brake pedal. This will cause the trailer to be recognized by the truck and activate the TRM module and turn on the 12 volt power.

3) I bought a Redarc Liberty brake controller and wired it according to views on 'You-Tube'. Then I found out about needing to wire the brake signal wire to the cab third brake light instead of the flying lead under the dash. Or buy the diode from Redarc and connect it to the tail light connection. (Didn't find that information at Redarc). You don't have to pull all the panels and liner out, just tap into the yellow/gry stripe (chk if voltage only present when the brake is pressed) located behind the rear bottom back kick panel.

I have the Redac controller in my truck, it is wired up to the 4 wires under the driver's side dash. Work great. The only issue is my trailer brakes are only activated by the brake pedal and not the AEB system. I don't have ACC so collision avoidance is the only possible problem. I can live with that. Tying into CHMSL requires the lumen module from the now discontinued Ford brake controller kit. Tying into the truck brake light is a Australian solution to the issue and not recommended on our NA models, especially if you have LED taillights.

4) our Rangers put out Alt voltages for an AGM battery. My travel trailer has a LFP (lithium/iron/Phosphate) which NEEDS a different charging set-up. I added a DC-DC/MPPT (LFP selectable) charger in my trailer.

True if your trailer uses a non-conventional, lead acid, battery system you will need to provide your own charging system for it.

 

[airline tech]

Please add, advise, and/or correct the following comments:
I feel that the vast majority of information on getting involved with just about anything is now available by searching the web; however the last little bit can be SO compromising.
I bought a new Casita travel trailer and found out:
1) the light switch on the Ranger dash must be set to Standard (non-automatic) lighting or the trailer lights won't come on. (Didn't find that information in the manual)
2) the 7 pin must be plugged into the tow vehicle and then be put in gear and moved to activate the +12V connection in the 7 pin plug/outlet. (I was about to tear the truck apart to find out why it didn't work).
3) I bought a Redarc Liberty brake controller and wired it according to views on 'You-Tube'. Then I found out about needing to wire the brake signal wire to the cab third brake light instead of the flying lead under the dash. Or buy the diode from Redarc and connect it to the tail light connection. (Didn't find that information at Redarc). You don't have to pull all the panels and liner out, just tap into the yellow/gry stripe (chk if voltage only present when the brake is pressed) located behind the rear bottom back kick panel.
4) our Rangers put out Alt voltages for an AGM battery. My travel trailer has a LFP (lithium/iron/Phosphate) which NEEDS a different charging set-up. I added a DC-DC/MPPT (LFP selectable) charger in my trailer.

Ref: #1
Trailer Parking Lamps
The BCM monitors the headlamp switch position by sending voltage signals on multiple circuits to the headlamp switch. There is one circuit for each headlamp switch position. At any given time, one of the signal circuits is switched to ground to indicate the headlamp switch position.

When the parking lamps or headlamps position is selected, the BCM provides a ground path to the BJB parking lamps trailer tow relay (replaceable). When the BCM provides ground the parking lamps trailer tow relay, the relay is energized and the relay provides parking lamp voltage to the trailer tow connector.

My Note:
So even though the manual states (Park or Headlamp) position they should still work in (Auto) as long as the Headlights are commanded on, as the park lamps will also be powered.
So YES, if wanting Trailer (Park) lights on in (daylight) the switch must be out of (Auto) or Forscan change to (Include) park lamps with DRL's, with this setting it includes the (taillamps) - This is how the Canadian trucks are set (by law)
Basically, anytime the Park lamps are commanded on the TRM receives the command on data signal.

Parklamp status

GWM

MS-CAN

FCIM SODL SODR TRM

and the Trailer Park Lamp (Relay) in the BJB gets its ground from this signal on the Can 1 Bus.

Parklamp status

BCM

HS-CAN1

PAM GWM

Note: I have not towed but have played with a meter on this circuit for ref t-shooting, I THINK I was in (Auto) when testing and was getting power on the circuit but cannot recall for sure.

Ref: #2
The TRM provides voltage to the trailer tow connector for trailer battery charging when all the following are true:

• the TRM detects that a trailer is connected
• the ignition is on and engine is running
• a brake pedal application has been detected in the present ignition cycle
• the BCM load shed strategy is not active (a message will be displayed in the instrument cluster, such as "Low Battery Features Temporarily Turned Off" or "Turn Power Off To Save Battery", to indicate that BCM load shed strategy is active)

The TRM directly (no relay) supplies fuse protected voltage for trailer battery charging.

Ref: #3
This is a known issue and yes you can (tap) splice anywhere into the CHMSL Power feed, the only reason for the (headliner drop) is for depinning and T-Harmes into the circuit. No cutting or splicing of wires.

 

[allcos]

I want to thank all of you for your responses. I thought I investigated possible issues before and during this adventure, but one can always be certain 'there's usually more'.

 

[ctechbob]

There's no towing vehicle that comes from the factory properly equipped to charge any of the lithium chemistries in a trailer. You'll always have to have some form of DC/DC conversion for it.

They (DC/DC Charger) also serve to limit the amount of charging current that is pulled through the 7-pin. Lithium chemistries are capable of charging at very high rates and if you have a run down battery in the trailer and try to charge it at full go through the 7 pin wire the truck is going to have a bad time.

Although Ford does pretty well with making that 7 pin wire computer controlled, so they may well limit or turn it off if it senses an overload.

An old school non PCM controlled trailer circuit would just pop the fuse and you'd be done.

 

[ControlNode]

From my experience, the lights work fine in auto. And I can get 12V without putting it in gear, I just turn on the tow/haul mode. But, I don't think it's the in gear that is making triggering the voltage, my guess is that when you pressed the brake to put it into gear it detected the trailer lights then and turned on the 12V.

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