Rotor Rant

[TremorOwner]

Regarding turning the rotors -- I've done that on vehicles. As long as they are in spec, it's fine. If the pads are fine, reusing them isn't a big deal.

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[TremorOwner]

this is true, but i think peoples biggest beef is that you're shaving off life expectancy when you turn them. people dont like to lose their money, but they sure think Ford should dump cash out their ass to make them happy.

I get it. Yes, annoying. The rotors on my Tahoe went to 200K and well within spec before I replaced them out of just being like... "okay, it's 200K". I'd venture these will last for long enough that the fact they had to be resurfaced is long forgotten. If it happens again, it's a metal issue.

 

[Gizmokid2005]

this is true, but i think peoples biggest beef is that you're shaving off life expectancy when you turn them. people dont like to lose their money, but they sure think Ford should dump cash out their ass to make them happy.

The flip side of that is buying a new vehicle, I shouldn't be losing this much life off my rotors because of manufacturing issues. If I have issues with part stores' rotors, I take them back and get brand new ones under warranty, as long as I'm in that warranty period, they don't resurface them and give them back to me. Manufacturing issues should not be the responsibility of the owners to bear the brunt of.

I get it. Yes, annoying. The rotors on my Tahoe went to 200K and well within spec before I replaced them out of just being like... "okay, it's 200K". I'd venture these will last for long enough that the fact they had to be resurfaced is long forgotten. If it happens again, it's a metal issue.

I have had persistent, but not persistent *enough* for Ford apparently, rear brake squealing and have had my rotors turned and pads replaced at 5000mi on 2/4/20 (Left: 24.03mm -> 23.72mm and Right: 24.09mm -> 23.86mm), pads replaced again at 7600mi on 3/11/20, rotors turned and pads replaced again at 9550mi on 5/11/20 (Left: 22.28mm -> 22.23mm and Right: 22.25mm -> 22.20mm), and I've still had squealing issues on and off since about 15000mi. But it's never persistent enough to be able to take it to the dealership for a service again, because of their requirements to report to Ford. I noticed this weekend that I now have a warped rotor shake in the rear which needs to be fixed, so I have to get in touch with them, only for them to likely tell me that brake warranties are only good for 18k miles, to then fight with them to get it covered given the persistence of this issue.

None of my other vehicles had issues even remotely close to this with brakes. I put 80k on factory pads/rotors on my '15 Mustang without a shudder or squeal once. The brakes on my '04 F-150 and my '99 Ranger never had issues that I needed to correct.

 

[TremorOwner]

None of my other vehicles had issues even remotely close to this with brakes. I put 80k on factory pads/rotors on my '15 Mustang without a shudder or squeal once. The brakes on my '04 F-150 and my '99 Ranger never had issues that I needed to correct.

I had a 1997 Nissan Altimta in high school/college that warped rotors. I'd put new rotors on, within 5,000 miles... issue returned. Didn't know much about cars then and later realized the shocks were bad and apparently causing the tire to have this rapid "more grip, less grip" situation when stopping that I didn't really notice, but added up to affect the brake rotor. That's what I was told, anyway. Once the shock was replaced, the rotor never warped again so... I guess it was fact.

Also didn't help that I off-roaded that car to get to camping places and hook up with my GF...

 

[SFB]

Actually nothing wrong with resurfacing rotors as long as its done properly. But slapping the same brake pads on a new shaved rotor is s nono because the pattern is on the pad and it will copy paste onto the new shaved rotor. Need new pads

I disagree, respectfully of course. What happens when you resurface rotors? They are thinner and will warp again and sooner! Proper fix is new rotors and pads. This is a common problem with cars since they quit using asbestos pads, also I don't think the metal in rotors these days are of good quality, this of course is my opinion. Ive had this issue on two cars that I owned, a 2006 Ford Escape and a 2012 Edge. Both cars I replaced with aftermarket Brembo rotors and pads! Solved the issue permanently! Both cars I had over 100K miles when I sold them and never had another warped rotor. I realize you shouldn't have to pay for new parts and Ford should replace them. I decided on my own to go aftermarket because I knew they were better quality and would solve my problem.

 

[Polaris130]

I disagree, respectfully of course. What happens when you resurface rotors? They are thinner and will warp again and sooner! Proper fix is new rotors and pads. This is a common problem with cars since they quit using asbestos pads, also I don't think the metal in rotors these days are of good quality, this of course is my opinion. Ive had this issue on two cars that I owned, a 2006 Ford Escape and a 2012 Edge. Both cars I replaced with aftermarket Brembo rotors and pads! Solved the issue permanently! Both cars I had over 100K miles when I sold them and never had another warped rotor. I realize you shouldn't have to pay for new parts and Ford should replace them. I decided on my own to go aftermarket because I knew they were better quality and would solve my problem.

But every rotor has a minimum thickness either stamped or engraved on the rotor. So before you resurface you do some math will it be beyond the thickness or over if its over you are safe. If its beyond you toss it and slap a new one on. When people think about shaving a rotor they think its like peeling a potato. Barely any material is actually being shaved off. You also have to judge it by how much lateral runout the rotor actually has as well if its warped to sh** toss it. But vibration will happen with the slightest runout on the rotor

 

[SFB]

But every rotor has a minimum thickness either stamped or engraved on the rotor. So before you resurface you do some math will it be beyond the thickness or over if its over you are safe. If its beyond you toss it and slap a new one on. When people think about shaving a rotor they think its like peeling a potato. Barely any material is actually being shaved off. You also have to judge it by how much lateral runout the rotor actually has as well if its warped to sh** toss it. But vibration will happen with the slightest runout on the rotor

I realize that, Im not saying its out of tolerance, Im saying once they warp and you remove material it is easier for them to warp again. Worst one I had was my 06 Escape, 6K miles and it warped! Ford resurfaced it and within a short period of time it warped again. I replaced them with an aftermarket brand and never had an issue again. Back in the days of asbestos pad I never had issues with warpage and I use to resurface with no issues. I had two cars do this, two cars I then replaced with aftermarket rotors and didn't have the issue return! This is based on my experiences only.

 

[Megawatt]

Yes rotors aren't even an expensive part few hundred bucks and minimal labor to replace kind of a weird deal for defective rotors or caliper issue from ford.

Come on now, Ford is eliminating the center set of bed tie downs to save money. Ford has eliminated the plastic engine cover to save money. And you think they are going to pass out free “few hundred bucks and free minimal labor” for warped rotors?

Highly doubtful.

 

[D Fresh]

Agreed. Loveland Ford, Loveland,Co.

Loveland Ford is a shit show.

Never dealt with their service department. But I'd stay away from their sales team.

 

[FordFreak]

Ya huh..

Agreed. Loveland Ford, Loveland,Co.

I’m in Loveland…Loveland Ford is horrible. I bought mine in Longmont.

it was even worse when it was Heritage Ford. The sales people must have all been taught by the same crook.

 

[Waxthis]

Well as excepted resurfacing the rotors and tossing the old pads back on got me a mere 3000 more miles before they started pulsing again. Dealer however was as nice enough to quote me $795 to put brand new rotors and pads on. I'll be doing these myself thanks. ...

 

[Gizmokid2005]

Well as excepted resurfacing the rotors and tossing the old pads back on got me a mere 3000 more miles before they started pulsing again. Dealer however was as nice enough to quote me $795 to put brand new rotors and pads on. I'll be doing these myself thanks. ...

Yup. Same ol' shit.

They resurfaced my rotors every time I went in, but always replaced the pads. The rotors were definitely the issue for me. The high-quality stuff I got from RockAuto has been absolutely solid since their install.

 

[Waxthis]

Yup. Same ol' shit.

They resurfaced my rotors every time I went in, but always replaced the pads. The rotors were definitely the issue for me. The high-quality stuff I got from RockAuto has been absolutely solid since their install.

What rotors and pads did you go with. Looking at options.

 

[Gizmokid2005]

What rotors and pads did you go with. Looking at options.

I do a fair bit of off-roading, but not really much towing, but I wanted something that would take abuse.

I went with Raybestos (Heavy Duty (Long Life, Truck & Tow)) Specialty - Truck; Coated (Part #: 682574) for the rear rotors ($42.79/ea).

I used Power Stop (Heavy Duty (Long Life, Truck & Tow)) Z36 Severe Duty Truck & Tow; Carbon-Fiber Ceramic (Part #: Z362208) for the rear pads ($40.79/set).

They've been fantastic. I've got about 4500 miles on them so far with no issues at all.

 

[Waxthis]

I do a fair bit of off-roading, but not really much towing, but I wanted something that would take abuse.

I went with Raybestos (Heavy Duty (Long Life, Truck & Tow)) Specialty - Truck; Coated (Part #: 682574) for the rear rotors ($42.79/ea).

I used Power Stop (Heavy Duty (Long Life, Truck & Tow)) Z36 Severe Duty Truck & Tow; Carbon-Fiber Ceramic (Part #: Z362208) for the rear pads ($40.79/set).

They've been fantastic. I've got about 4500 miles on them so far with no issues at all.

Thanks for the info and part#'s!

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