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Remote start bad for engine?

r1ch999999

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This is hardly the olden days, but my mom's Chevy Trailblazer got stolen once when she was letting it idle in the driveway one morning. No remote start, so keys were in the ignition.
Someone tried to steal my Monte Carlo once, I lived in a 4 story walkup, on the top floor. I could see my car from my bedroom, so I would start it, and then walk down. Someone was trying to get in it while it was running as I walked up. They ran
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DMWilliams

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2 items here.
Colorado, like the remote start, warm when I get in it.

When I start remote. The cabin reading lights come on as part of the remote start. They stay on if I don’t turn the overhead console switch On then Off.
I believe this should turn itself off, when the key is inserted and turned to the On position?
Does your overhead lights stay on?... Let me know, maybe a circuit board relay sticking On?
 

THLONE

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Someone tried to steal my Monte Carlo once, I lived in a 4 story walkup, on the top floor. I could see my car from my bedroom, so I would start it, and then walk down. Someone was trying to get in it while it was running as I walked up. They ran
You didnt finish the sentence after They ran......... :giggle:
 

r1ch999999

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You didnt finish the sentence after They ran......... :giggle:
They ran away, that was pretty much it. I didn't realize at first what was going on until I found all the hand prints in the frost on the door handle and window. The police didn't care, it was an affluent community so it was 'kids will be kids' bullshit.
 
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dtech

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In the 80s I had a turbo Saab and worked for a lady that disliked me (mutual) she and her dufus hubby had Saabs also, he approached me about a group buy for what was IIRC called a "turbo pre-luber", with a cool down timer, I told him to get lost. They both installed them on their Saabs, 6 months later a hose broke on it and wasted his engine, a few months later she somehow drove into a bridge abutment and totaled hers( walking away unscathed with front end completely compressed but door still opened) . Scratch 2 Saabs and 2 turbo pre- lubers, while mine went over 250k before I rebuilt the turbo as the seals were leaking. Engine needed to be idled for 30 secs before shutdown prior to water cooled turbos.
I took the same route on my commute home as the lady Saab driver, came across her car, emergency vehicles were already on the scene but I stopped - she said her briefcase slipped and jammed the accelator, but I think she just drove into the abutment - very narrow bridge but anyways her Saab could have well been used in a commercial, the front end was crumpled up to the doors but they still opened, mind you this was in the 80s prior to a lot of the modern safety standards.
 


r1ch999999

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the story would have been more entertaining if it went like this:

"They ran, and they ran until they were tired. thats when i caught up to their sorry asses and found a tree branch close by and started to beat their asses. I beat their asses until the tree branch broke numerous times until it was down to a little stump. it was at that point they cried for their mommies and i took that stub of wood, what little was left of it and threw it at them several times as if I was pitching my last inning in a MLB championship game. I think they learned their lesson"
I would never admit to any sort of violence, or threat of violence, on the internet. The internet is forever.
 

Adventure Ranger

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I'm just going to throw this into the mix...
At -40 there isn't an automatic transmission made that will engage and move the vehicle until it has warmed up, trying to move before it has warmed and circulated the fluid will only result in blown seals. Same holds true for the power steering systems in all modern vehicles, the O-ring seals just can't hold at that temp if forced under pressure from frozen, thick fluids. So yeah - we warm them up for 5-10 minutes during the winter.
( YES it actually gets that cold here ! ):eek:
 

r1ch999999

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I'm just going to throw this into the mix...
At -40 there isn't an automatic transmission made that will engage and move the vehicle until it has warmed up, trying to move before it has warmed and circulated the fluid will only result in blown seals. Same holds true for the power steering systems in all modern vehicles, the O-ring seals just can't hold at that temp if forced under pressure from frozen, thick fluids. So yeah - we warm them up for 5-10 minutes during the winter.
( YES it actually gets that cold here ! ):eek:
Fun fact, -40 is -40 in either C or F.

I remember the starting procedure for my 82 Impala in the winter, I had two sets of spark plugs, I kept one indoors, brought them out, swapped all the plugs, used some starter fluid in the carburetor, and started it up. It was below freezing every day between January and March and below zero (-17C) for most of February.
 

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This is another case of everyone has their own opinion, including the experts, and no one is going to change that. In the end, do what you want and think is best. Get in, start it up, and take off. Remote start it and let it run the full 15 mins before getting out there. In the end it doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. The life of the truck won't change in any appreciable way. Maybe you'll knock 20,000 miles off the life, so now it'll only go 280,000 instead of 300,000. But in reality, a vast majority of these trucks will get scrapped out long before any effects are felt from usage.

Live your life, have fun, and don't worry so much about things. Money is just a piece of paper. That's the way I live at least and it hasn't killed me yet.
 

Canadian Ranger

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It's absolutely ok to let your vehicle warm up a bit before driving. The main reason it's good to do it, is to let your thickened oil (due to the cold) warm up and thin out to operating viscosity. Same reason it's good to drive slow once in "drive", that warms up your transmission fluid.
Of course I live in an area with extreme cold winters.
Your other option, is to switch your driveline fluids (motor, trans., & diffs) to Amsoil. It doesn't thicken in the cold.
 

THLONE

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Hay Amsoil dealer, do you care to share an independent lab testing the viscosity of your miracle product that the viscosity never changes hot or cold. I am calling BS to this claim.
 

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This is another case of everyone has their own opinion, including the experts, and no one is going to change that. In the end, do what you want and think is best. Get in, start it up, and take off. Remote start it and let it run the full 15 mins before getting out there. In the end it doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. The life of the truck won't change in any appreciable way. Maybe you'll knock 20,000 miles off the life, so now it'll only go 280,000 instead of 300,000. But in reality, a vast majority of these trucks will get scrapped out long before any effects are felt from usage.

Live your life, have fun, and don't worry so much about things. Money is just a piece of paper. That's the way I live at least and it hasn't killed me yet.
The vast majority of these trucks will be sold before 100k when the next flash in the pan arrives. Ford Engineering built these things and has provided documentation for their operation. That's apparently not good enough for the backyard mechanic who is sure they know better because they found an article on the web that agrees with their neurosis. Aftermarket parts manufacturers capitalize on this and the advertising follows. "Install our device, fluid, software or the world will implode."
 

slowmachine

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It's absolutely ok to let your vehicle warm up a bit before driving. The main reason it's good to do it, is to let your thickened oil (due to the cold) warm up and thin out to operating viscosity. Same reason it's good to drive slow once in "drive", that warms up your transmission fluid.
Of course I live in an area with extreme cold winters.
Your other option, is to switch your driveline fluids (motor, trans., & diffs) to Amsoil. It doesn't thicken in the cold.
I suspect that AMSOIL products are mostly comparable in quality and performance to like products from other oil companies. I will never even consider buying them, though, because of their multi-level-marketing business model. Every automotive forum that I’ve joined, going back to the days when all communication was by plain text email, seems to have one or more AMSOIL salesmen who capitalize on every opportunity to make a “recommendation” for AMSOIL products. The effect of this behavior is no different from making a telephone call, and being interrupted by a sales pitch from a third party who surreptitiously monitors the conversation and inserts advertising based on the words being spoken.
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