Regearing with larger tires?

Finality2020

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Just got off the phone with ARB USA and their notes state to use a ring gear from a Jeep JK with the matching Dana M220 axel. They not not have anything in their notes about the front and stated they do not know but would imagine it woild be a strait forward install using the stock ring and pinion if they did not put a note in about a problem.
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I struggle with this.. I installed 33” Cooper S/T Maxx 10 ply tires and my fuel economy plummeted as well as my overall performance of the truck. But I do live in the mountains at 4100’ and I work in town at 500’ with a commute of 35 miles each way. I do not run any engine tuner. I found 10th gear to be practically not useable unless I was going slightly downhill. Which I believe contributed to my 6-7mpg fuel loss.

I removed those tires after 5000 miles and sold them. Bought some 31” 6 ply mud terrain tires and now have only lost about 2 mpg off what the stock tires gave me for fuel mileage. So.. could re-gearing of helped me run 33” E rated tires without destroying fuel economy?? Or was it a combination of tire size and heavier tire? I’m not really sure but I think it would’ve helped a bit
Rotational mass kills performance and fuel economy. If you add a really heavy tire and wheel you don't just have to turn it but keep it turning. Rotational mass has a factor it is multiplied by. Where as non rotating weight is just the weight that is added.
 

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Out of curiosity what size tire do you plan on installing on your truck? I ask because there are members on here(a select few) that run 35's and dont have much issue with the gearing. I'm still running 32's and it does just fine.
Out of curiosity what size tire do you plan on installing on your truck? I ask because there are members on here(a select few) that run 35's and dont have much issue with the gearing. I'm still running 32's and it does just fine.
32" -34". Each manufacturer has a 33" tire that is a slightly different size. I may not be chaging the ring gear size. The issue is the stock gear is welded to the diff. When I switch to the ARB I will need a new ring gear to put on the locking diff.
 

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Even if we had to worry about re-gearing the final drive there are no kits avalible at this time to change the gears. A pain yes but the truth. Also I am currently running 265/70-17 on my truck with the Old Man EMU lift with the Livernois Tow Tune and my MPG can still be pretty good depending on conditions. Depending on conditions I can also toss the MPG right out the window too!!
I am looking at the old man emu 2.5" lift. Are you running the same one? What is the max tire size you can run?
 

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I am looking at the old man emu 2.5" lift. Are you running the same one? What is the max tire size you can run?
Correct I am running the old man emu standard lift kit. The biggest tire that you can run is whatever you can fit. Currently I'm running a 32in but my understanding you should be able to fit a 34 with no problems as long as it's the tire size 34 by 10.50 17 on the stock wheel. Those seem to fit pretty well on our trucks without having to do any major modifications
 


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Rotational mass kills performance and fuel economy. If you add a really heavy tire and wheel you don't just have to turn it but keep it turning. Rotational mass has a factor it is multiplied by. Where as non rotating weight is just the weight that is added.
thanks to momentum, once a heavy tire is spinning it really doesn't require much more to keep it spinning at the same speed. At this point (once already spinning) tread pattern and width/rolling resistance are much more at play than the weight. Weight will make more of a difference in stop and go traffic, but rolling resistance is the big factor on the highway that will effect fuel mileage. Also, aerodynamics. If you're running super low offset wheels that stick out of the fender, they're going to be catching a lot more wind and adding more resistance.
 

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Just got off the phone with ARB USA and their notes state to use a ring gear from a Jeep JK with the matching Dana M220 axel. They not not have anything in their notes about the front and stated they do not know but would imagine it woild be a strait forward install using the stock ring and pinion if they did not put a note in about a problem.
I remember reading from ARB that the front diff is the same unit that's in the australian cars. So it should fit just the same, though I' haven't yet seen anyone actually do that install.
 

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Rotational weight has a HUGE effect on performance.. the general rule of thumb is 3 pounds = 1hp. So another 80lb is sapping pretty well over 20hp.

It would be much more noticeable on a transmission with a "normal" number of gears. The 4.7:1 first gear ratio really helps hide any loss in performance.. but its definitely there.
^This. Not many people understand rotational weight and how/why it matters.
 

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I am looking at the old man emu 2.5" lift. Are you running the same one? What is the max tire size you can run?
I have the same OME 2.5" standard lift, and I am running a 255/80/r17 (33") Falken Wildpeaks. No other modifications to crash bars, fits and turns like it should. Marginal loss in power/mpg. The day after the install it snowed 6-8" and the new tires ate up the snow no problem.
 
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^This. Not many people understand rotational weight and how/why it matters.
I have a friend who is big into Toyotas, specifically 4runners. He buys them, puts a nice lift on and a nice set of wheels with 33s or larger. Ends up selling them every time because they have no power and the fuel mileage sucks.
He's never once regeared one. Just keeps repeating the same steps every time, thinking he'll get a different outcome. :headbang:
 

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Does that mean that the gears can’t be changed later? Without swapping out the whole axle?
 

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With 33’s, speedo recalibrated and my tune, I see no reason for a gear change.
 

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It’s because in stock form, most Toyotas have hard the bare minimum or power and gear ratios in the axles and trans that won’t work with larger tires. Our 10 speed and turbo make a HUGE impact on our capabilities


I have a friend who is big into Toyotas, specifically 4runners. He buys them, puts a nice lift on and a nice set of wheels with 33s or larger. Ends up selling them every time because they have no power and the fuel mileage sucks.
He's never once regeared one. Just keeps repeating the same steps every time, thinking he'll get a different outcome. :headbang:
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