Rear brakes - Pads and Rotors needed

[Frenchy]

Any recommendations on specific brand or fixes? I put power stop drilled/slotted on the rear about 13K miles ago and the shudder is bad. Tons of pad but you can see how uneven it is on the face of the rotor.

I properly bedded, lubricated friction points, etc.

I am not hard on the brakes (my fronts lasted 60K and had 5mm or so left), but do use the vehicle in heavy snow/winter so maybe the traction system causes it.

Traction control will hit the brakes and turns and on acceleration just to help keep traction. This includes heavy acceleration from a stop. Also I would recommend sticking with the standard rotors over the drilled and slotted rotors. I would also recommend going with OEM Ford Brake Rotors or EBC Standard Rotors. Compared to the aftermarket ones not mentioned including power stop have the rotors made in China. Ford is made in the US and EBC is made in the UK.

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[maxbottomtime]

Traction control will hit the brakes and turns and on acceleration just to help keep traction. This includes heavy acceleration from a stop. Also I would recommend sticking with the standard rotors over the drilled and slotted rotors. I would also recommend going with OEM Ford Brake Rotors or EBC Standard Rotors. Compared to the aftermarket ones not mentioned including power stop have the rotors made in China. Ford is made in the US and EBC is made in the UK.

My oems were shuddering within 20K miles, I just ignored it and held out. Not convinced OEM is the fix here.

 

[Frenchy]

My oems were shuddering within 20K miles, I just ignored it and held out. Not convinced OEM is the fix here.

Keep in mind that the reason might have to do with your right foot

 

[maxbottomtime]

Keep in mind that the reason might have to do with your right foot

Not the case here - I can count on one hand the number of times I have broken traction accelerating. Clearly something systematic given the numerous threads on this topic. TC is the culprit in off-road modes I believe.

 

[Frenchy]

Not the case here - I can count on one hand the number of times I have broken traction accelerating. Clearly something systematic given the numerous threads on this topic. TC is the culprit in off-road modes I believe.

You don't necessarily have to break traction accelerating in order to get the checks control to activate the brakes. Also I remember during the time I had my 2019 and never had a shuttering issue with the brakes.

 

[maxbottomtime]

You don't necessarily have to break traction accelerating in order to get the checks control to activate the brakes. Also I remember during the time I had my 2019 and never had a shuttering issue with the brakes.

Again, not a lead foot in the truck. It'll apply TC without the TC light flashing? with no noticeable cut to power?

If you look at the forums, there are tons of people complaining about this... It ain't a lead foot.

 

[ctechbob]

Ditch the Ford pads. Bendix Fleet Metlok on all 4 corners and whatever rotors you want to replace the shuddering ones with.

Thank me later.

The Ford friction material is complete and utter garbage, especially if you do any form of towing or harder work with the truck.

The Metloks have much better tip in than factory, are fairly linear all through the range, and stand up to abuse fairly well.

 

[PltFX4]

Again, not a lead foot in the truck. It'll apply TC without the TC light flashing? with no noticeable cut to power?

If you look at the forums, there are tons of people complaining about this... It ain't a lead foot.

You can see my link to my experience with rear brakes on page 3 of this thread... and that was at 7K mile!!

Bottom line is the qualitly of Ford's OEM rear rotors, in my experience, is not good.

This kit PowerStop K8430-36 Rear brake kit is VERY high quality... they still look new almost 3 years later here in salt country (as is NE Ohio as I recall). Not sure is they offer a non-drilled version but my new front Pedders BBK were so I wanted them matching. Ah, they do: At Autozone: PowerStop Performance Brake Pads / Rotors Kit KOE8430

 

[ctechbob]

Ohh, and one of the reasons the rear brakes on Rangers suck so bad.

Insufficient cooling.

Ford needed to add at least a scoop to the rear backing pad to keep temps down, otherwise they don't cool that well and end up cooking the factory friction material that is trash in the first place.

 

[maxbottomtime]

You can see my link to my experience with rear brakes on page 3 of this thread... and that was at 7K mile!!

Bottom line is the qualitly of Ford's OEM rear rotors, in my experience, is not good.

This kit PowerStop K8430-36 Rear brake kit is VERY high quality... they still look new almost 3 years later here in salt country (as is NE Ohio as I recall). Not sure is they offer a non-drilled version but my new front Pedders BBK were so I wanted them matching. Ah, they do: At Autozone: PowerStop Performance Brake Pads / Rotors Kit KOE8430

Appreciate the feedback. Hilariously, it is the very same powerstop z36 slotted/drilled that are on it now and have failed fantastically. You can see the wear surface/friction material is very fractional relative to the pad size.

 

[ctechbob]

Appreciate the feedback. Hilariously, it is the very same powerstop z36 slotted/drilled that are on it now and have failed fantastically. You can see the wear surface/friction material is very fractional relative to the pad size.

Curious, did you replace just the rears or all 4 corners.

Reason I ask is that I replaced just the rears on mine, once. The pads were slightly more aggressive than the OEM pads and that's when I discovered that the rear rotors lack cooling.

They worked ever so slightly harder than the oem pads and made a bit more heat, and then they refused to properly cool off causing an even bigger problem.

I drove like that for a week before I shitcanned all 4 corners pads and went with the Metlok's.

 

[maxbottomtime]

Curious, did you replace just the rears or all 4 corners.

Reason I ask is that I replaced just the rears on mine, once. The pads were slightly more aggressive than the OEM pads and that's when I discovered that the rear rotors lack cooling.

They worked ever so slightly harder than the oem pads and made a bit more heat, and then they refused to properly cool off causing an even bigger problem.

I drove like that for a week before I shitcanned all 4 corners pads and went with the Metlok's.

It was probably 2K miles on rears alone. Fronts had plenty of life left. I swapped those a couple months later when i had everything torn down for struts.

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