Ranger Fender vent lighting

[Muffin1]

Thanks, the biggest change i made was a tire/wheel package i'll get pictures up in the other thread 'what did you do today' and i added lights under the tailgate.

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[Muscleford]

Thanks, the biggest change i made was a tire/wheel package i'll get pictures up in the the other thread 'what did you do today' and i added lights under the tailgate.

Msfitoy did so also and am planning to do the same. Could you post some pics with the tailgate down? Also some info about what lights you used, source for the lights and how you mounted them.

Thanks.

 

[Muffin1]

Yea I’ll get some pics, the tailgate down just clears them, that panel is just a thin piece of plastic, I carefully drilled iirc 3/4 holes, but tested that size on a thin piece of luan plywood I had laying around to make sure, the specs of the lights are listed in this link it says what diameter hole is required.
They just mount using the rubber grommet, I tapped into the license plate lights using posi tap connectors.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/OPT29FR.html

 

[Muscleford]

Thanks Rob.

 

[Muffin1]

Thanks Rob.

The pics really aren’t showing anything the tailgate hides them when down, you really want to keep them closer to the top of the LP frame .
I used the grommets placed against the panel and outlined with a red Sharpie.
Space them from corner to corner of the LP frame, that’s going to be your guide to get them centered & spaced evenly, not to hard but remember you only get one shot when drilling the hole placement, and I used a small drill bit at first then switched to a spade type bit, good luck.

 

[Waltztj]

Just a word of caution and I don't mean to be negative.

Your tapping into a circuit that is controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module). It is a non fused circuit, instead it is monitored and controlled by FET's. If that circuit were to fail the BCM maintains a cumulative counter for every fault. If the circuit reaches a certain count, another fault (DTC) is triggered (U####) and the circuit is permanently disabled until a BCM reset can be performed by the dealer / technician after a self test is performed to ensure the circuit is good. Certain DTC's cannot be reset and a new BCM is required ( I believe a U3000 is such a scenario).

In addition if a dealer were to see that the circuit was tapped into they can deny a warranty claim since it was a aftermarket part that could have caused the issue.

As I've said before these front markers get tapped into by many many people and never have an issue. But when tapping into these circuits I would make sure that the tap is secure and of a quality connection, not only to avoid any long term and costly issues but any possible warranty issues.

I found this
https://customautoworksstore.com/pr...nector/?product_added_to_cart=3211&quantity=2

 

[DangerRanger84]

Just a word of caution and I don't mean to be negative.

Your tapping into a circuit that is controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module). It is a non fused circuit, instead it is monitored and controlled by FET's. If that circuit were to fail the BCM maintains a cumulative counter for every fault. If the circuit reaches a certain count, another fault (DTC) is triggered (U####) and the circuit is permanently disabled until a BCM reset can be performed by the dealer / technician after a self test is performed to ensure the circuit is good. Certain DTC's cannot be reset and a new BCM is required ( I believe a U3000 is such a scenario).

In addition if a dealer were to see that the circuit was tapped into they can deny a warranty claim since it was a aftermarket part that could have caused the issue.

As I've said before these front markers get tapped into by many many people and never have an issue. But when tapping into these circuits I would make sure that the tap is secure and of a quality connection, not only to avoid any long term and costly issues but any possible warranty issues.

+1 for this - tapping a non-fused circuit, while unlikely to cause any issues w/ low voltage LED's, puts the BCM at risk. Having it trip a BCM fault is not worth it...my 17 year old self and my old Honda Civic had this happen and it bricked the car, lol. That being said I learned a lot with that car in those early days so a lot of it was my fault and being naive...but it gave me a healthy respect for electrical wiring and BCM/ECU's and how fragile they can be, and how easy they are to fuck up if you're not careful.

 

[pwrplay]

Doesn't anybody use solder anymore? Those Scotchlocs (or any other tap out there) are junk junk junk.
Just carefully strip back some sheathing on the donor wire, wrap the accessory power around the exposed donor wire, solder the connection, electrical tape/goo it to protect it from the elements and then secure the harness to prevent chaffing! It will last as long as the vehicle.

 

[Msfitoy]

Doesn't anybody use solder anymore? Those Scotchlocs (or any other tap out there) are junk junk junk.
Just carefully strip back some sheathing on the donor wire, wrap the accessory power around the exposed donor wire, solder the connection, electrical tape/goo it to protect it from the elements and then secure the harness to prevent chaffing! It will last as long as the vehicle.

I solder evrything...

 

[pwrplay]

I solder evrything...

You must buy solder in bulk with all those stadium lights tapped in. lol.
I've been going through your build thread for ideas, great looking truck !!

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