Project Msfitoy V3.0

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Msfitoy

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I can't imagine they wouldn't. The bolt pattern matches (6x5.5/6x139.7) what our trucks are.
That's what I think...some people are saying hub centric is important but the hubs doesn't appear to locate the wheel...I believe the wheels on the Ranger are nut centric...Phil correct me on this?
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Msfitoy

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Prepped for the next beach camp...Quick Fist clamps...
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Driver side waiting for 5' x 8' awning...

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Murph

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Thanks much...the beams are there to help with offset crash deflection but their benefit compromises the usable tire envelope. Yes, you can lift and keep those beams...however, once the truck begins using it's full articulation while off road with larger than OEM tires, they will make contact with the beams...something I'd rather not encounter when a tires in a ditch or on top of a rock at full lock:facepalm:

So if your fat tires can't steer full lock while in a lowered position (OEM), then they're only good if you don't ever use full articulation:like:
OOOOhhhhh , that's what you meant by full lock. Thanks.
 

Phil Howell

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That's what I think...some people are saying hub centric is important but the hubs doesn't appear to locate the wheel...I believe the wheels on the Ranger are nut centric...Phil correct me on this?
Different Phil, but I'll answer this. Our Ranger wheels ARE hub-centric with a 93.1mm center bore. While Toyota wheels have the same 6x139.7 lug pattern, they have a 106.1mm center bore. If run on the Ranger they'd be lug-centric. Running lug-centric wheels on the Ranger can be done, but there is a (slight) danger that wheel studs could shear off. Also, when mounting lug-centric tires/wheels, it's a good idea to unweight them while tightening the lug nuts. There's a possibility that the weight of the tires/wheels will deflect the wheel studs, causing them to not be centered. This will cause radial runout and give you a bounce on the road. This happened to me when running lug-centric wheels on a Tacoma project we did in the magazine. It's much better to run hub-centric spacers or wheels with a 93.1mm center bore on our Rangers. Nice build, by the way . . .
 


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Different Phil, but I'll answer this. Our Ranger wheels ARE hub-centric with a 93.1mm center bore. While Toyota wheels have the same 6x139.7 lug pattern, they have a 106.1mm center bore. If run on the Ranger they'd be lug-centric. Running lug-centric wheels on the Ranger can be done, but there is a (slight) danger that wheel studs could shear off. Also, when mounting lug-centric tires/wheels, it's a good idea to unweight them while tightening the lug nuts. There's a possibility that the weight of the tires/wheels will deflect the wheel studs, causing them to not be centered. This will cause radial runout and give you a bounce on the road. This happened to me when running lug-centric wheels on a Tacoma project we did in the magazine. It's much better to run hub-centric spacers or wheels with a 93.1mm center bore on our Rangers. Nice build, by the way . . .
Lots of very smart Phils on this forum lol...Thank you for that great explanation and the complement!

My confusion began when I mounted the Fuel wheels which have a larger bore than Ranger's hub. Never thought twice about that since they were listed as Ranger compatible. From there on, I thought Rangers were nut centric since I've traveled over 45K and never had any vibration or loosening issues. Then again, I'm NOT doing Pre-runner types of antics lol. Also, I always tighten up the nuts in star pattern while wheel is off the ground (not to full torque). Once I gently lower them to contact the ground, full torque is applied and then again every 10 miles later at least 3 times.
 
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Driver, truck or when it's upside down? All the above... ?
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cfhgarza

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Lots of very smart Phils on this forum lol...Thank you for that great explanation and the complement!

My confusion began when I mounted the Fuel wheels which have a larger bore than Ranger's hub. Never thought twice about that since they were listed as Ranger compatible. From there on, I thought Rangers were nut centric since I've traveled over 45K and never had any vibration or loosening issues. Then again, I'm NOT doing Pre-runner types of antics lol. Also, I always tighten up the nuts in star pattern while wheel is off the ground (not to full torque). Once I gently lower them to contact the ground, full torque is applied and then again every 10 miles later at least 3 times.
You can get centering rings for them. Like these. Or these.
 
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Msfitoy

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Since I'm not allowed on off topic threads...enjoy! This made my night...3 wheel cornering at it's best?
 

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Since I'm not allowed on off topic threads...enjoy! This made my night...3 wheel cornering at it's best?
Those are always fun to watch! We went to the outdoor truck nationals a few years ago here, Jeremy McGrath was there with a few other ex motocross guys. They spend most of their time on 3 wheels or upside down.

I didn't know you were restricted from the off topic sections? Well I guess that's safe way to keep a leash on you. lol ?


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Those are always fun to watch! We went to the outdoor truck nationals a few years ago here, Jeremy McGrath was there with a few other ex motocross guys. They spend most of their time on 3 wheels or upside down.

I didn't know you were restricted from the off topic sections? Well I guess that's safe way to keep a leash on you. lol ?


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I'm in my play pen...think I can get banned off my own thread? ah...nevermind ?

BTW, these are Ausi specs...they look like mid size trucks with V8s....badass...
 

soccer26fan

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Another step closer...got my "Last Line of Defense" style Front Runner racks mounted to the Diamondback...without the RTT loaded, both hatch open normally:)
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Looks awesome! which diamondback cover did you go with?
 
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John Galt

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I think you need more lights. Those mall curbs pop out of nowhere at night.
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