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Plastic block removal

McLeadslinger

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I want to remove the plastic blocks under the felt liners in the front wheel wells. What’s the best way to do this?
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puckdodger

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I'm curious as to the why.
 


taildraggerpilot

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The modified crash bars in that guide are sweet. Does anyone know what tire size (with a level) they could fit without rubbing?
 
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D Fresh

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Need more clearance for suspension articulation
?????

Are you also cutting off the crashbar mounts/horns and trimming the fenders?

Tires will hit there before they hit that plastic block.
 
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McLeadslinger

McLeadslinger

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My crash bars are removed already when I installed my lift and coilovers.. I’m crawling rocks and other steep terrain so I want as much clearance as I can. Cutting fenders is out of the question. Lol.

?????

Are you also cutting off the crashbar mounts/horns and trimming the fenders?

Tires will hit there before they hit that plastic block.
 
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McLeadslinger

McLeadslinger

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I have brand new in the box Fabtech crash bars if you are interested.
The modified crash bars in that guide are sweet. Does anyone know what tire size (with a level) they could fit without rubbing?
 
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Stangman570

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My crash bars are removed already when I installed my lift and coilovers.. I’m crawling rocks and other steep terrain so I want as much clearance as I can. Cutting fenders is out of the question. Lol.
No need to cut fenders. ASK ME... I KNOW...... NOT SOME ARM CHAIR QUARTER BACKS WE HAVE HERE THAT ONLY CRAWLS THROUGH MALL SPEED BUMPS!! NO rubbing with 295 70 17 -12mm off set wheels. Before I removed the crash bar and blocks I was rubbing well before full lock. Crash bars removed 1st and was hitting the blocks. Hence remove both if you plan on running any tire more than 33's. With a 3.5in lift you may not have to remove the blocks. I wouldn't know as I'm at a 3in in the front.

Resized_20200919_145020.jpeg


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received_1564838143699630.jpeg
 
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McLeadslinger

McLeadslinger

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When I installed my lift I had the liners pulled back and saw the two exposed bolts but not the attachment toward the fender. The block sits higher than the crash bars I removed but does stick out a ways.

I’m speaking from a standpoint of already installing my lift and being in there and not just assuming.



Could be.

But looking at the Ready lift instructions the block seems to be at least 1 ½" behind the crash bar horn. And well behind the edge of the fender.

Screenshot_20211211-214351_Drive.jpg
No need to cut fenders. ASK ME... I KNOW...... NOT SOME ARM CHAIR QUARTER BACKS WE HAVE HERE THAT ONLY CRAWLS THROUGH MALL SPEED BUMPS!! NO rubbing with 295 70 17 -12mm off set wheels. Before I removed the crash bar and blocks I was rubbing well before full lock. Crash bars removed 1st and was hitting the blocks. Hence remove both if you plan on running any tire more than 33's. With a 3.5in lift you may not have to remove the blocks. I wouldn't know as I'm at a 3in in the front.

Resized_20200919_145020.jpeg


received_1564838143699630.jpeg


received_1564838143699630.jpeg
 
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McLeadslinger

McLeadslinger

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Thanks for posting ?. I too run a -12 offset wheel but run a 33 with a 3.5 lift. You probably already have seen my other posts about it. ??
No need to cut fenders. ASK ME... I KNOW...... NOT SOME ARM CHAIR QUARTER BACKS WE HAVE HERE THAT ONLY CRAWLS THROUGH MALL SPEED BUMPS!! NO rubbing with 295 70 17 -12mm off set wheels. Before I removed the crash bar and blocks I was rubbing well before full lock. Crash bars removed 1st and was hitting the blocks. Hence remove both if you plan on running any tire more than 33's. With a 3.5in lift you may not have to remove the blocks. I wouldn't know as I'm at a 3in in the front.

Resized_20200919_145020.jpeg


received_1564838143699630.jpeg


received_1564838143699630.jpeg
 

RK Racing

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This is GREAT STUFF! Thank you everyone for posting.
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