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MYSTERY COOLANT LEAK

SimonSaucy

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For the last few months, I’ve been chasing a mystery coolant leak.

About a month or so ago I thought I found it in a quick connect fitting that had gone bad on the backside of the engine, feeding the transmission cooler lines.
Replaced that fitting and refilled up the coolant and didn’t really look at it.
Today, I’m driving home and have to pull over because the car thinks it’s overheating. Come to find out the coolant reservoir was pretty much empty.

Thus has started the search for where could the coolant leak possibly be. I had to fill up the reservoir with probably half a gallon. Luckily there’s still a good bit uv die in the system. I spent a little over an hour tonight looking in every nook and cranny for any leaks. But I can’t come up with that looks obvious. Or has any splatter marks like I saw last time.

The only two things I found were these T connectors in the driver’s wheel well that have to do with the transmission heater.. while they do glow slightly green. I’m not really convinced they’re actively leaking or leaking at all. I’d expect to see more residue and splatter around the area and I don’t. In addition, I tried cleaning off those fittings with brake cleaner. And the greenness did not change…. In addition this area could’ve been an area that the previous leak was leaking on.
I also started the truck up after it was cold and let it idle for a while until it was up to operating temperature. And then felt around all of these fittings and couldn’t find any wetness.


Looking for any recommendations on what I should do. I know there’s a few threads about possible EGR cooler issues. Honestly, that seems to be my best. Guess at this moment. Although I’m not having any codes of any sort.

No white smoke. No misfires. No obviously leaks.

Has anyone ever had a leaking radiator internally? It they didn’t show up on a black light or show any signs of leaking.?

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RangerBill

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For the last few months, I’ve been chasing a mystery coolant leak.

About a month or so ago I thought I found it in a quick connect fitting that had gone bad on the backside of the engine, feeding the transmission cooler lines.
Replaced that fitting and refilled up the coolant and didn’t really look at it.
Today, I’m driving home and have to pull over because the car thinks it’s overheating. Come to find out the coolant reservoir was pretty much empty.

Thus has started the search for where could the coolant leak possibly be. I had to fill up the reservoir with probably half a gallon. Luckily there’s still a good bit uv die in the system. I spent a little over an hour tonight looking in every nook and cranny for any leaks. But I can’t come up with that looks obvious. Or has any splatter marks like I saw last time.

The only two things I found were these T connectors in the driver’s wheel well that have to do with the transmission heater.. while they do glow slightly green. I’m not really convinced they’re actively leaking or leaking at all. I’d expect to see more residue and splatter around the area and I don’t. In addition, I tried cleaning off those fittings with brake cleaner. And the greenness did not change…. In addition this area could’ve been an area that the previous leak was leaking on.
I also started the truck up after it was cold and let it idle for a while until it was up to operating temperature. And then felt around all of these fittings and couldn’t find any wetness.


Looking for any recommendations on what I should do. I know there’s a few threads about possible EGR cooler issues. Honestly, that seems to be my best. Guess at this moment. Although I’m not having any codes of any sort.

No white smoke. No misfires. No obviously leaks.

Has anyone ever had a leaking radiator internally? It they didn’t show up on a black light or show any signs of leaking.?

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Pull your spark plugs and see if they show signs of coolant leakage into the cylinders. Also, check your coolant bottle cap. It may be leaking there. How long does it take for the coolant level to be low after filling?
 

harringtondav

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Are you using a coolant system pressure tester? If not borrow or rent one from a parts store with a closed system reservoir adapter. I can't find the test pressure spec in my service information CD, but 21 psi is normal for this type of system.
I had a leak on a previous vehicle. The system held pressure when hot, but the leak showed itself overnight once the system cooled. Connect the pressure tester to the reservoir and warm the engine to full operating temp. The gauge on the pressure tester should raise to upper teens to lower 20 psi.
If an external hose, connection or device is leaking, a coolant puddle will form under the truck.
Leaking trans, engine oil and other coolers will leave coolant milk in the engine oil or transmission sump. A cracked block or head will do the same. A bad head gasket should cause white exhaust smoke. I believe the Ranger's turbo has a coolant circuit. A leak here could end up on the floor or cause white smoke.
 
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SimonSaucy

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Was thinking about buying a tester.
The hard part is there is no puddles or anything from the truck! No smoke or anything 😭
 


Cabose-1

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Not to argue methods, buttt........

Use the pressure tester cold. Parts contract, becoming smaller, put in the 21 psi, see if it holds, engine 🥶 cold, the water will leak, if its a leak and you can track it down a lot easier. With the engine hot, parts expand sealing the small gaps that create leaks.
Best way to find leaks. A lift, light and mirror.
Wash with water and dry with compressed air if possible. Or a shop vac blowing air. Coolant does not evaporate, it needs to be cleaned off.
A cold engine is easier to find leaks, and lets you crawl under and feel and look with lights and mirrors and not get burned all at the same time.
Good luck!
 

Cabose-1

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Was thinking about buying a tester.
The hard part is there is no puddles or anything from the truck! No smoke or anything 😭
Is the oil black or brown? Is the oil cap black, or.......hints of caramel color??
 
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SimonSaucy

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Is the oil black or brown? Is the oil cap black, or.......hints of caramel color??
Nice goldish black no milkshake or signs of it!
Had my last subie fail that way so I know the smell and look haha
 

Cabose-1

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Best i can think of is. To pressure test it cold, see if it holds pressure. If not, definitely a leak. Just a matter of tracking it down. Maybe you had an air bubble with the repair you did, keep an eye on it, pressure tester can be rented at the autoparts stores usually. Just hard to find the adapters for newer vehicles. Or........harbor freight. I usually buy there because i do not work as a mechanic anymore. Just the family mechanic now.
 
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SimonSaucy

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On my way to Harbor freight to buy a tester right now. Just to make sure it’s not the tester.
I’m almost starting to think the EGR cooler might be the culprit. But we shall see.
 

Strapper

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On my way to Harbor freight to buy a tester right now. Just to make sure it’s not the tester.
I’m almost starting to think the EGR cooler might be the culprit. But we shall see.
I have a recall for a possible coolant leak at the block heater. Just a thought.
 
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SimonSaucy

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Well I have tried 3 different pressure testers and can’t fine a single one that fits! Looks like the correct adapter from Matco is a week plus out…

Approaching the point where I think I might just need to take it in and have someone diag it
 

Mighty Little Blue

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I purchased this one when I needed to drain and fill my coolant. I think the blue one fits (not 100% sure on color but one fits for sure). I am not home now to look which adapter fits, but one will fit.
Worked perfectly to vacuum fill no air pockets like you will get just adding coolant.

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airline tech

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Cap and Reservoir Adaptors:

MAC & Matco - I bought them and tested - they fit, these are added to my Snap-On tester kit that is nearly 40 years old.

I also think you are on the right track - EGR Cooler, it will only leak when EGR is flowing meaning the EGR Valve must be open, so a Idle pressure test will pass.

You could pull the hoses for the DPFE and check for coolant or pull the EGR Temp sensor and also pull the plugs and boro the cylinder.

EGR Cooler would vaporize (mostly) before it reaches the cycliners and also spread evenly across all cylinders - so slight wetting and a head gasket would be concentrated on one or 2 cylinders (adjacent)

I would also check the cap (Pressure Test)

So possibly, Bad Cap, Leaking Head Gasket or EGR Cooler

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SimonSaucy

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Thanks for that info @airlinetech!

Was poking around with the black light some more tonight and got really scared when I saw some fluorescence in the oil… see photos….
But then I went over to a brand new bottle of oil from Ford and it glowed exactly the same..


going to go pull a plug right now.



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