Installing a Bus Bar and need advice please:

[Trigganometry]

Bus bar done.

Now for ground:
I'm running a 1/0 cable from here...

To here...

I popped that M8x30 bolt through a factory hole. I'll use it as a junction point to connect the winch, a relay box, and a cable to the bed.
I've read so many articles and threads about grounding a winch. The most compelling comment I've seen, was something on our site about not bypassing the truck's BMS. I'm gonna focus on that and make the best connections possible.

Does anyone have power run to the bed? If so, what gauge cable did you use?
I have an ARB Twin Compressor back there now awaiting hook-up, and maybe a fridge in the future.

For your bed auxiliary power point check out this thread. We all have that connection point over the left rear wheel. Great spot to tap with premade harnesses that are also found on this forum https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/diy-adding-the-12v-power-outlet-option-in-the-bed.2239/

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[Stage3Motorsports]

I think you did a great job, and A+ for the creativity with the fence post bracket!

 

[Brett Fields]

For your bed auxiliary power point check out this thread. We all have that connection point over the left rear wheel. Great spot to tap with premade harnesses that are also found on this forum https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/diy-adding-the-12v-power-outlet-option-in-the-bed.2239/

Already done. May have been my first mod. I bought the Wolfhaus adapter. Thing is, it's only 20 amps. The ARB Twin needs 60 or better. Add that to a fridge and a few lights and you could be drawing 80?, 90? And if recollection serves, the factory wire is really *not* suitable for a real 20 amp draw. It seamed like 18 gauge, maybe 16, but nothing larger.

 

[Brett Fields]

I think you did a great job, and A+ for the creativity with the fence post bracket!

Thanks so much! I walked up & down the isles at Lowes until I found these. It took about 30 minutes but I lucked out.
Also, shout outs to all the members who chimed in. Without this help, I would definitely have made some really bad decisions. I'm so grateful to this great gang who teaches me how to spend more money every day! ? (my Amazon account is on fire!)

 

[Danager]

Already done. May have been my first mod. I bought the Wolfhaus adapter. Thing is, it's only 20 amps. The ARB Twin needs 60 or better. Add that to a fridge and a few lights and you could be drawing 80?, 90? And if recollection serves, the factory wire is really *not* suitable for a real 20 amp draw. It seamed like 18 gauge, maybe 16, but nothing larger.

I ran 12awg to the bed for a dedicated output. Turns out I will plug my Bluetti into it, and my fridge into the Bluetti. The Iceco fridge draws 15amp max, per the fuse. I may run a heavy cable at some point in the future. It is easy enough going down the driver side.
I get you are future-proofing things. 90amps sure seems like a lot. I get that is everything running at max, that’s going to be a hell of a party at 90 amps. Would you just pull more 1/0?

 

[Brett Fields]

I ran 12awg to the bed for a dedicated output. Turns out I will plug my Bluetti into it, and my fridge into the Bluetti. The Iceco fridge draws 15amp max, per the fuse. I may run a heavy cable at some point in the future. It is easy enough going down the driver side.
I get you are future-proofing things. 90amps sure seems like a lot. I get that is everything running at max, that’s going to be a hell of a party at 90 amps. Would you just pull more 1/0?

So.... ???
Up through about 2004, the Fire Dept. of NY Bureau of EMS used jumper cables that had this proprietary plug on them. They were made of 1 AWG really nice copper. Since then, our ambulances have a different style plug. The old cables are useless, and every now & then one will emerge during a cleanout of the back of some long forgotten closet. I found one a few years back that I used about a third of. A month ago, I was covering for a Captain that was on an extended leave and came across another one. You KNOW I snatched that right up!

They're really heavy and difficult to work with, so I figured maybe I'll ask around and see what others have done. Maybe I could get away with something lighter. (though not free$$$) Depending on the chart you look at, the load I describe above could be carried over a 6, if not 4 gauge cable. That 1 gauge cable is good to around 200 amps. I can't say that there's any way for me to use that kind of current short of a large inverter running major power tools. At that point, I'd be nuts to be using my starting battery and not an auxiliary battery.

 

[Brett Fields]

Ok, I tried.
That 1 AWG cable was just too difficult for me to work with. There was no way I was going to be able to fish it around where I needed.
I ordered some 4 AWG battery cable from Amazon. I'll see how that goes.
I guess I'll put an Anderson connector and some battery clips on that cable and restore it back to its original purpose.

 

[Brett Fields]

Ok... Today's the big day. Back at OK4WD for my winch install:

I'm hoping all the pre-work pays off. I also asked them if they would run the 4 gauge cable while the truck is in the air.

 

[Brett Fields]

And so they did...
OK4WD loomed and ran my 4 gauge cable front to back. I asked the tech if he could add in a length of 16 or 18 along with it so I could have an ignition wire back there also. I terminated the front and attached it into my bus bar box, but the rear is just tied up under the rear fender. I'll deal with it next time I'm off. The labor rate at OK4WD is certainly healthy, but now I don't have to crawl around under there. That's a win to me.

 

[Brett Fields]

This is the other end of the cable from the bus bar under the hood.

That cable will feed this Redarc BCDC1240D.
Hopefully by the end of Monday, the fridge will be running off an aux battery.

 

[Waltztj]

I wanna install this here:

But it ends up under this vent:

Does anyone think this would be a problem? I don't totally understand the purpose of this vent to begin with.
Thanks...

If I am not mistaken that is the air intake for the motor. If you look that area is sealed with a gasket. so the air flow will go to the motor intake.

 

[Brett Fields]

Air intake is the scoop to the left. Phil has indicated that the other opening is more cooling related airflow.

 

[Brett Fields]

Re-purposed 2 100ah batteries and a 1000 watt inverter.

 

[Brett Fields]

So that battery setup worked, but it was precarious. I got a couple of battery boxes and made this....

It will sit in the back corner behind the fridge...

Now I need to install the 12v receptacles and the aux battery setup will be done.
...for now.

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