FEEDBACK REQUESTED: Car camping (or overlanding) rack options

[DanielN]

Tuwa pro moab happy so far

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[MER21]

Nice setup! Thanks!

Max Modular has offered those for years: https://www.max-modular.com/accessories/max-modular-outboard-bike-mounts
I'm pretty sure Xtrusion just ripped off the Max Modular offering and just sources 90% of their rack from 80/20.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I think I am the only one to go with this setup:

8.2ft x 8.2ft x 8ft ARB awning and tent attachment. Pulls double duty as just an awning normally.

(Stock photo from Google)

If a serious emergency and bug out event happens, I'd just take a knife and cut it away if I had to drive off in less than 30 seconds.

Normal pack up time is about 5 minutes or less.

 

[Danager]

Max Modular has offered those for years: https://www.max-modular.com/accessories/max-modular-outboard-bike-mounts
I'm pretty sure Xtrusion just ripped off the Max Modular offering and just sources 90% of their rack from 80/20.

The bike sticks out pretty far. The handle bars are going to be ~26”. And you are already cantilevered off the side of a rack. Figure you are now out 13” from the side of the truck. Past the mirrors. It looks cool. I think I would have to have a pretty compelling reason not to use a hitch mounted bike carrier.

 

[MER21]

Get rear ended one time with $10K worth of bikes on a hitch carrier and you change your tune real quick...happened to a buddy of mine years ago. It's obviously personal preference, but I'll never use a hitch carrier.

 

[GhostStrykre]

I think I am the only one to go with this setup:

8.2ft x 8.2ft x 8ft ARB awning and tent attachment. Pulls double duty as just an awning normally.

(Stock photo from Google)

If a serious emergency and bug out event happens, I'd just take a knife and cut it away if I had to drive off in less than 30 seconds.

Normal pack up time is about 5 minutes or less.

I'm not ultra knowledgeable on RTT's, but when I researched them for my 4Runner, ARB was the brand I nearly bought into. Developed in Australia, they have a huge focus on keeping their wonderful critters out. IIRC they're bug proof, or something. OP, if you go for a RTT then don't forget to check into ARB. ARB has options like this one from OFC Ranger (which I love the double duty/awning aspect of this), and other RTT's similar to those already shared in this thread. Seems like a good brand.

 

[madchassey]

I run an Xtrusion Overland rack with an iKamper 3.0 Mini and so far its been a really solid setup

 

[mtbikernate]

That is interesting! My original solution to not sleeping on the ground was to buy a trailer like this, but all of the ones I have seen seem to be much more expensive once you equip them. They also seem to be on backorder, and you have to consider the price of storage, etc.

I have never seen that brand. That is definitely an option.

I like the small camper option. Just spent the weekend out in mine doing the campground thing. I just didn't feel like driving all over the woods looking for a boondock site just before Labor Day weekend.

Big thing I like with this is that it's solid against the weather. We had some rain while we were out, and never a concern with getting drips or spray or whatever. You do lose a little bit of maneuverability when offroading with a trailer vs. keeping everything in/on the truck, but an offroad capable trailer doesn't lose much. I've seen vids of people taking them on some pretty rough stuff. Get an offroad articulating hitch and you're in great shape.

Mine's not an offroad model, so lightly maintained gravel roads are the worst I'll take it on.

Most small trailers like this are built by small regional builders (find one reasonably close to you so you can take advantage of the better support and easy pickup you'll get from being close to the builder) and demand is high enough that they're almost entirely built-to-order. Not exactly backordered.

Most of the cost of these, tbh, comes from the trailer base (and however it's been beefed up for offroad use) and the options you add onto it. The electrical system I have in mine is probably at least 1/4 of the total cost (100Ah LiFePO4 battery, 240w of solar, Dometic fridge, interior lighting, maxxfan, lots of outlets. All of the lights you see in this pic are solar rechargeable on their own, and don't attach to the camper's electrical system.

They aren't all that complicated, either, and if you're up for it, you can build your own. 2 things I see that the usual manufacturers do consistently better than the DIY folks is building on good quality trailers (most DIY builds are on cheapo harbor freight trailers) and the finish work details. You can build out a cargo trailer, too. Though the extra height on those can be a little tricky for offroading, I've seen it done. Saw a build thread of one where the guy tore his cargo trailer down and basically re-welded it to get the height he wanted, offroad suspension, etc. Not sure why he didn't just weld a trailer up from scratch. And for that matter, I like putting a RTT onto a tiny offroad trailer better than putting it on my truck. That way, I wouldn't have to deal with the hassle of removing the RTT from my truck after a trip. Can just unhitch the trailer.

My trailer fits inside my garage no problem. And I've got some height to work with if I wanted something with raised suspension. Some ppl use airbags, at least in part so they can deflate them and squeeze into a garage. I've even seen examples where people remove the wheels from their trailer, and then put the hubs onto dollies in order to squeeze into a short garage.

 

[mtbikernate]

I am surprised and disappointed to hear about your troubles with Yakima. They have always been great for me, but clearly there have been supply chain issues recently. Everything is hard to get, but that doesn't forgive them for not having better customer service.

My feeling is that Yakima has basically decided to sacrifice supporting existing customers for the sake of putting complete products out. Pretty much ALL repair parts are in short supply and their CS is really thin on the ground. But I see new racks and other products out all over the place.

 

[FlyingMonkey435]

I was going to install a RTT on top of a RSI SmartCap, but ended up ordering a Super Pacific X1. I pick it up late October. Anyone want to buy a new SmartCap?

 

[Alpinist]

I'll echo the other posts that urge you think through your intended usage, rather than going by what works for others. For example, my main need for the RTT is for sleeping at trailheads here in WA so I can get an early start on a climb. I ran a softopper with an air mattress in the bed for awhile, but it offered no security for my stuff when I wasn't with the truck.

I've got a Yakima SkyRise mounted on the 8" billiebars. Tent is light at only 95 lbs, rack is rock solid, sits below the roofline, so no noticeable impact on fuel mileage. Also run an Extang Solid Fold hard tonneau cover- keeps the bed secure while I'm not with the truck. Love the RTT vs a ground tent- quick breakdown and sleeps a lot warmer.

The GFC (or similar) is great, but it's a semi permanent installation. My Yakima tent lives in my garage, and it's light enough that I can install and remove it myself without an elaborate hoist. Nice for if you still intend to use your bed to haul things.

 

[rondowe]

Much depends on your camping style. How long are your camping trips? What sort of weather do you expect (cold, windy)? How much comfort are you wanting? What gear do you take?

My new 2019 XLT FX4 Supercab included a Ford-branded Retrax Pro retractable cover. The cover was solid, secure, and water-tight but the canister for the retractable cover takes up a lot of room. I considered it an interim measure as I intended to get a cap but I had to wait several months for anyone to make a cap I liked that fit the Ranger. I ended up with an ARE MX. I made a 6' x 3' x 6" plywood box between the wheel wells to enclose a foam mattress (just for me). Two people would need a different arrangement. 3 carpeted, plywood panels cover the bed box during the day to hold supplies and convert to shelves at night. I put a solar panel on the cap with a lithium battery to power interior lights, run an Engel refrigerator and power USB and 12V devices and an AC inverter. A Little Buddy "indoor-safe" propane heater helps during cold nights and mornings. Fair warning: "Indoor-safe" is a relative term. I open a window a bit to let in fresh air, have a CO alarm and only use the heater when I'm awake.

 

[ProtonDecay]

OK, I'll throw in my $0.02.

We used to have the exact phase 3 setup you mentioned (Retrax, Yakima Overhaul HD, 23Zero RTT) and loved it, but we've since upgrade to an overlanding trailer (Black Series HQ15).

To your questions:

1) Yes, the Retrax is awesome - very well built, but needs a bit of work to make it proper for off-roading. First, I ditched the crappy clamps that come with the Retrax to hold it onto the bed rail. They kept popping off. So, I removed them completely and drilled to bolt the cover in place (with washers as shims to hold the cover in the middle of the bed and also provide better support against side loads. Second, it comes black, but can be painted. I had our trailer painted in Oxford White and the body shop threw in painting the Retrax for free (they didn't know if the paint would stick). 25K miles and 13 months later and it is holding up just fine. Why paint it? Well, we keep a fridge in the bed and painting the cover white significantly dropped our power usage. Third, I opened up the cover on the inside of the tailgate and disconnected the power lock actuator. This means I have to manually lock/unlock the bed, but it also means a bit more work for thieves to get into the bed even if they break into the cab (breaking windows and rifling car contents has turned into a very popular pastime here in the Bay Area). Here's a pic of what the cover looked like after painting.

2) Absolutely love the Yakima Overhaul HD - very sleek and has held up reasonably well after modifying it for off-road use. The lowest setting of the Overhaul uprights makes things just over the top of the Ranger, which is about right. The rack is rated for the load of a tent going off-road (tent is like 150 lbs), but we tore the heck out of the rack within a couple of trips. I ended up heli-coiling nearly all of the HD bolts after taking things completely apart and finding them stripped. I also put self-tapping screws through the uprights into the crossbars to keep them from slipping. After doing that things held up perfectly and we took several more off-roading trips with the 23Zero tent on top. Here's a pick of us up in the Sierra Nevada while we still had the tent.

I took the rack off for awhile after we switched to the trailer, but put just one of the bars back on a few months ago to hold our Starlink dish. Here's a pic of that.

Anyway, best of luck whatever you decide to do. Let me know if you want pics of anything in more detail.

 

[NTXTremor]

I got the Retrax pro with t slots and love it. There is a definite difference in the security of the plastic roll top and the aluminum roll top. The aluminum also has a much longer lifetime guarantee that the polycarbonate. The only downside I see of the retrax over roll up or flip styles is the canister size at the top front of the box. Otherwise, It is better in every regard IMHO. Doesn’t even block rear window. Locks at any position. Looks great.

I haven’t moved forward on a rack yet, but if I do I will probably go with the Xtrusion Overland or build my own aluminum extrusion version. It is much cheaper than the elevate or overhaul and more flexible. Basically you can do anything the t-slot aluminum profiles.

This is great feedback. Thanks!

 

[NTXTremor]

OK, I'll throw in my $0.02.

We used to have the exact phase 3 setup you mentioned (Retrax, Yakima Overhaul HD, 23Zero RTT) and loved it, but we've since upgrade to an overlanding trailer (Black Series HQ15).

To your questions:

1) Yes, the Retrax is awesome - very well built, but needs a bit of work to make it proper for off-roading. First, I ditched the crappy clamps that come with the Retrax to hold it onto the bed rail. They kept popping off. So, I removed them completely and drilled to bolt the cover in place (with washers as shims to hold the cover in the middle of the bed and also provide better support against side loads. Second, it comes black, but can be painted. I had our trailer painted in Oxford White and the body shop threw in painting the Retrax for free (they didn't know if the paint would stick). 25K miles and 13 months later and it is holding up just fine. Why paint it? Well, we keep a fridge in the bed and painting the cover white significantly dropped our power usage. Third, I opened up the cover on the inside of the tailgate and disconnected the power lock actuator. This means I have to manually lock/unlock the bed, but it also means a bit more work for thieves to get into the bed even if they break into the cab (breaking windows and rifling car contents has turned into a very popular pastime here in the Bay Area). Here's a pic of what the cover looked like after painting.

2) Absolutely love the Yakima Overhaul HD - very sleek and has held up reasonably well after modifying it for off-road use. The lowest setting of the Overhaul uprights makes things just over the top of the Ranger, which is about right. The rack is rated for the load of a tent going off-road (tent is like 150 lbs), but we tore the heck out of the rack within a couple of trips. I ended up heli-coiling nearly all of the HD bolts after taking things completely apart and finding them stripped. I also put self-tapping screws through the uprights into the crossbars to keep them from slipping. After doing that things held up perfectly and we took several more off-roading trips with the 23Zero tent on top. Here's a pick of us up in the Sierra Nevada while we still had the tent.

I took the rack off for awhile after we switched to the trailer, but put just one of the bars back on a few months ago to hold our Starlink dish. Here's a pic of that.

Anyway, best of luck whatever you decide to do. Let me know if you want pics of anything in more detail.

Thanks for the very thorough response! There is a lot to digest here.

How did you tear the heck out of the rack? Is it not well made or heavy duty enough?

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