Dashcam Install

dinosplace

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That’s correct, it is a spare slot from the factory under the panel to left of steering wheel. The tap I had was too bulky to fit in the other commonly used slots, but I’ve had no problems using #35 since installing months ago
Thanks for confirming.
I will test it out.
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FiveSeven

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Hey Everyone-- long time lurker, first time poster. First and foremost I want to thank everyone here for your research and time spent sharing your information.

Yesterday, I hard wired a radar detector and a dash cam, and would like to simply post a quick summary of what I did and what I used.

My radar detector is a Uniden r7 with the original manufacturer's hardwire kit, and the dash cam is a Viofo a129 Plus with rear camera with the original manufacturer's hardwire kit (Viofo HK3 ACC).

For those that want to do both here's some info, and some added suggestions:

As noted in this thread, most dashcams, like mine, has two modes, Parking mode and Drive/iginition mode.

The Dash cam hardwire kit has three wires-- ACC(Yellow), Battery(Red), GND(black)

The Uniden R7 hardwire kit is only 2--- power(red) and GND(black)


POWER WHEN VEHICLE IS TURNED ON:
Dashcam ACC(Yellow) goes to FUSE #37-- Powers Dash cam to use Driving/Ignition mode recording

Radar Detector Power(red) wire also connected to Fuse #37

Radar Detector Power(red) and Dashcam ACC (yellow) I soldered together, then connected it to the Fuse tap on #37 via crimp style wire connector.

SUGGESTION: The original fuse is 20a for FUSE #37. For better protection for your equipment I suggest going to a 10a or even 5a fuse(maybe?) (depending on your device(s) power draw) and making a note of the original fuse that was put in by Ford. These devices don't use a lot of power; therefore, a 30a will not protect them in case of electric short/failure. YES, be sure to use the same two fuses of your choice on your fuse tap wire.

CONSTANT POWER WHEN VEHICLE IS TURNED OFF:

Dashcam BATTERY(red) wire goes to FUSE #29-- This will enable your dashcam to go into "parking mode" when you turn off your vehicle.

I am not sure how long it will record for, but I set the Dashcam hardwire Voltage-Cutoff switch for 12.2-12.4v.

***I replaced the original 30a fuse on #29 with a 5a since the dashcam will be the only device connected to it. If you're going to add more devices to this then calculate power draw as needed and replace fuse accordingly.

CABLE ROUTING:
Pulled off Pillar-A cover and the two collision sensor covers above and below the rear view mirror(pain in the A$$; just pull down-- top half first, then the bottom; I used plastic trim removal tool to get it started, then gorilla gripped it off-- bottom being more difficult)

Both wires were routed carefully and zip tied in Pillar-A making sure it will never get in the way of the airbag. I simply followed the original wiring harness in there.

The wires followed the top of the windshield and into the location of the collision sensor cover area. I drilled a hole and cut a notch at the bottom of the cover for my radar detector rj-11 wire. The dash cam wire follows the top of the windshield and comes down to the right side of the collision sensor cover.

As everything sits, Radar detector is at the bottom of the rear view mirror, and the dash cam is on the passenger side of the collision sensor cover due to the way the camera comes off the mount-- it slides to the right in case you need to remove it for firmware updates.

Thanks again for everyone in this thread and your valuable information.
 

r1ch999999

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I'm thinking about picking one of these up to replace my dashcam. This seems to record front, and since it has a remote rear camera it can allow me to see out the back, despite the cap. Anyone try one?
 

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@FiveSeven Where did you mount the camera? I'd be interested in seeing a photo of it installed.
 

FiveSeven

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@FiveSeven Where did you mount the camera? I'd be interested in seeing a photo of it installed.
Attached is the requested picture.

1 WEEK UPDATE AND TAKEAWAYS

When the weather gets warmer, I am going to place the Radar Detector to the left side of the pre-collision camera cover, and the Dash Cam to the bottom of the cover where the Radar Detector currently sits.

After reviewing some videos from the dash cam, the radar detector in its current position creates a black shadow at the bottom corner of the footage. It's very minor, nor will it prevent showing anything of importance because all it does is block some of the hood and that's it; I'm only being OCD about it.

If I didn't have the Radar detector, The dash cam would be OK where it is currently; however, I would strongly recommend a polarized lens attachment with this particular camera I am using, since there's a gap between the camera lens and the windshield where some glares are noticeable. My previous dash cam camera lens sat almost perfectly flush with the windshield so there were no apparent glares. This all varies dashcam to dashcam, so make your own decision.

There's a "blend mount" option for the Radar detector to be mounted on the rearview mirror stem, but for $150 it's not worth it for me. If a cleaner more consistent placement of these two items is worth it to you, then I suggest placing the Dashcam at the bottom of the pre-collision sensor cover, and the radar detector on the "blend mount". The thread on the "blend mount" option can be found here:

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/blendmount-install-pics.2196/

I have yet to hook up the rear dashcam. I am waiting for the weather to get warmer and get my windows tinted. I don't want to run wires and place things on the windows yet until it's all tinted. I will update again when I do the rear camera.

20210215_121146.jpg
 


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Attached is the requested picture.

1 WEEK UPDATE AND TAKEAWAYS

When the weather gets warmer, I am going to place the Radar Detector to the left side of the pre-collision camera cover, and the Dash Cam to the bottom of the cover where the Radar Detector currently sits.

After reviewing some videos from the dash cam, the radar detector in its current position creates a black shadow at the bottom corner of the footage. It's very minor, nor will it prevent showing anything of importance because all it does is block some of the hood and that's it; I'm only being OCD about it.

If I didn't have the Radar detector, The dash cam would be OK where it is currently; however, I would strongly recommend a polarized lens attachment with this particular camera I am using, since there's a gap between the camera lens and the windshield where some glares are noticeable. My previous dash cam camera lens sat almost perfectly flush with the windshield so there were no apparent glares. This all varies dashcam to dashcam, so make your own decision.

There's a "blend mount" option for the Radar detector to be mounted on the rearview mirror stem, but for $150 it's not worth it for me. If a cleaner more consistent placement of these two items is worth it to you, then I suggest placing the Dashcam at the bottom of the pre-collision sensor cover, and the radar detector on the "blend mount". The thread on the "blend mount" option can be found here:

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/blendmount-install-pics.2196/

I have yet to hook up the rear dashcam. I am waiting for the weather to get warmer and get my windows tinted. I don't want to run wires and place things on the windows yet until it's all tinted. I will update again when I do the rear camera.

20210215_121146.jpg
I love my VIOFO duo cams! I did attach the polarizEd clip-on lens covers both front and rear....and the Bluetooth camera shutter..it’s very handy to push for a quick snap, rather than reach up to the camera.
 

Jrel209

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SUGGESTION: The original fuse is 20a for FUSE #37. For better protection for your equipment I suggest going to a 10a or even 5a fuse(maybe?) (depending on your device(s) power draw) and making a note of the original fuse that was put in by Ford. These devices don't use a lot of power; therefore, a 30a will not protect them in case of electric short/failure. YES, be sure to use the same two fuses of your choice on your fuse tap wire.
Quick question, since i dont use fuse taps often and am getting ready to install a vio129 pro this week. When you say 'same two fuses' you just mean two of the same micro2 type fuses and not two of the same draw ex: 5a or 10a, right? So basically if i tap into #37 and #29 as suggested, i use the original fuse (30a for #29 and 20a for #37) that was there and put it on the bottom slot of the fuse tap, and then the micro2 5a or 10a goes on the top slot, right?
 

Jrel209

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I connected to the in-cabin fuse box, just under the steering wheel and yes, there is plenty of room to close the cover. :thumbsup:

I can run out and take a pic if you'd like.
I just installed mine, i just ziptied all the slack and the powercutoff adapter that comes w/ the hardwire kit right behind that metal plate where the in cabin fuse box snaps onto. I'm not sure if thats ok, i'm pretty new w/ this stuff. Is that what you did?
 

taildraggerpilot

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Now it’s summer in the south and, like many on here, my truck lives outside. The 3M auto tape is good, but not that good. My forward dashcam (thinkware Q200 pro) keeps falling in the heat. The tape stays on the glass, but not the dashcam bracket. I was thinking about fabricating a metal bracket that would attach somewhere under that plastic shroud covering the electronics forward of the rear view mirror. I could cut a small slice off the side of that plastic shroud and have the metal bracket mounted to extend laterally to rivet the thinkware base bracket to. Any ideas or suggestions anyone? I wonder what’s under that shroud that would be a candidate for ’attachment“......
 

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Thanks everyone for participating in this thread it made my install today MUCH easier having read the entire thread in advance!!

@j0shm1lls -- thanks for all your info, the coat hanger suggestion was a good call, though, Sysadmin here so glow stick to the rescue lol
PXL_20220220_165236279.jpg


@FiveSeven -- Your writeup was most helpful because I basically have the same hardware as I installed an A129 Pro duo so thank you for that.

Whoever mentioned the fuse cables having to be trimmed down which I can't seem to find the comments now that I'm looking for them, thanks for saving me from insanity. Took my Dremel to mine to get them to fit.

PXL_20220220_220258465.jpg

PXL_20220221_151830485.jpg

PXL_20220221_151843054.jpg

Untitled.jpg

Untitled1.jpg
 
Last edited:

Adamcarr

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I installed my dashcam last night and wanted to provide a quick how-to since I tapped directly into the mirror instead of running cable down to the fuse box. Tapping the mirror power will allow the camera to start during remote start and doesn't turn off with the auto-off feature of our vehicle.

Products Used:
invisicord_5vusb2.jpg
rexing2.jpg
Annotation 2019-07-13 0759382.jpg


Method Used:
  • First I cut the end of the invisicord off and the end of the left angle Mini USB from Amazon and connected the left angle to the invisicord product, soldered and used some shrink wrap to keep it secure. Again this is optional
20190712_202550-2.jpg


  • Other end of the invisicord product. This is what we'll use to tap into the mirror's power
20190712_202556-2.jpg



  • Start by removing the top part of the cowl directly behind the mirror. Do not attempt to remove the lower part containing the safety camera etc. Once removed you'll see a small grey connector containing 3 cables: Blue, Black and Green. We are interested in the Blue and Black cables.
20190712_202609-2.jpg


Side View of the exposed gray clip with the cowl off
20190712_202615-2.jpg

  • Insert the Red end of the invisicord into the same hole with the blue cable. Then, insert the black end of the invisicord into the same hole with the black cable. We are not touching the green cable.
20190712_202727-2.jpg

Side view with the invisicord inserted
20190712_202722-2.jpg

  • At this point I stopped and plugged in my camera to ensure it turned on. When everything worked I started putting the cowl back on and did a little cable management.
Cowl back on
20190712_202934-2.jpg


Cowl on and Camera mounted before tucking camera cable back in to safety camera housing and cowl. I got the invisicord with the in-line fuse. The fuse fit nicely behind the cowel.
20190712_205730-2.jpg


Cables tucked away and camera in position that I can't see it from driver seat. Note the optional left hand Mini USB. Much cleaner bend around the camera and into cowl for easy cable management.
20190712_210200-2.jpg


Hope this helps.
I hate to bring up your post due to being old. But I been looking to do the exact same thing. How is this setup working for you? Did it give you any issues? Did it affect the auto dimming feature?
 

Sariandan

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Attached is the requested picture.

1 WEEK UPDATE AND TAKEAWAYS

When the weather gets warmer, I am going to place the Radar Detector to the left side of the pre-collision camera cover, and the Dash Cam to the bottom of the cover where the Radar Detector currently sits.

After reviewing some videos from the dash cam, the radar detector in its current position creates a black shadow at the bottom corner of the footage. It's very minor, nor will it prevent showing anything of importance because all it does is block some of the hood and that's it; I'm only being OCD about it.

If I didn't have the Radar detector, The dash cam would be OK where it is currently; however, I would strongly recommend a polarized lens attachment with this particular camera I am using, since there's a gap between the camera lens and the windshield where some glares are noticeable. My previous dash cam camera lens sat almost perfectly flush with the windshield so there were no apparent glares. This all varies dashcam to dashcam, so make your own decision.

There's a "blend mount" option for the Radar detector to be mounted on the rearview mirror stem, but for $150 it's not worth it for me. If a cleaner more consistent placement of these two items is worth it to you, then I suggest placing the Dashcam at the bottom of the pre-collision sensor cover, and the radar detector on the "blend mount". The thread on the "blend mount" option can be found here:

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/blendmount-install-pics.2196/

I have yet to hook up the rear dashcam. I am waiting for the weather to get warmer and get my windows tinted. I don't want to run wires and place things on the windows yet until it's all tinted. I will update again when I do the rear camera.

20210215_121146.jpg
That's kind of how I have my camera and radar detector set up. My camera is directly under the mirror housing, with the mount touching it. The radar detector is to the right and above the camera, but still below the mirror. I have no issues with footage. I'll post a picture tomorrow, if I don't, someone reply and prompt me to do it Friday. I'm getting old and my memory sucks.
 

PonyXpress

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I have the Garmin mini 2 for my 2019 ranger Lariat and I was thinking about getting the dongar adaptor that uses the power from the auto dimming mirror. Has anyone tried that on a 2019 Ranger?

I looked at the mess behind my mirror and I don'ts see a easy way to unplug the wiring harness so I can use this adapter.

I asked dongar if they made one for my Ranger and they said if my truck uses the 16 pin plug, and I can get to it, then it would work.

Seems it would be way easier than having to run a wire to the fuse box.

dongar adapter.png


https://dongar.tech/products/16pin-ford-f150
 

Sariandan

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When I installed the cam in my ex’s 2020 Ranger, I installed it directly below the mirror and was going to run the power cable through the mirror housing to the headliner. The housing was a bitch to get off. When I got my 2021, I just ran the cabling beside the mirror housing. I’ll never try to take that off again.

So, easier is a matter of perspective.
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