Calling out Frenchy and his Variable Voltage Post

[ctechbob]

Why am I making a new post? Because @Frenchy put me on ignore and I can't reply to the original one. Very adult like. Sorry admin, but this has to be done.

Now.

Her motioned digging out a current clamp, well, some of us have those as well.

Guess what Frenchy, you are wrong. You've been wrong this whole time. Your post doesn't deserve a sticky, but you deserve to go back and study ohms law. Contrary what you believe, many people have the right idea whereas you're clutching at your pearls hanging on to something that just isn't so.



--EDIT-- This vid is wrong. The amp clamp was wrong, corrected video below.

Check...and mate.

Couple of addendums:

- Meant to say 'Current Shunt' instead of 'Amp Clamp' at the end of the video.

- Should have said 'the running current is not going through there'

You know when you'll see a lot of current going through there? When the alt can't keep up or the battery is low and being charged.

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[ctechbob]

In case you STILL want to run your mouth:



Notice that he's got an 18 amp draw when the truck is sitting there. When he connects the battery charger to the 'correct' side of the shunt the computer STOPS seeing the current flow through the shunt, JUST LIKE IT WOULD DO WITH THE TRUCK RUNNING AND THE ALTERNATOR WORKING.

That starts at around 8 min into the video.

The only thing you've been correct about is where to attach accessory cables. 100% correct, they go on the 'car' side of the shunt, not the battery terminal side.

 

[ctechbob]

Ok, watching the video I realized that the clamp was not fully seated, so here is corrected video #2 which is more in line with what I would expect. I'm leaving the first video up because, I was wrong in it and I'm not afraid of showing my mistake.

5-6 amps going into the battery after starting the truck about 30 seconds prior, about what you would expect. Current starts up around 20 amps and then drops as the alternator replenishes the battery from the cranking.



Still no running current going through that shunt.

Weird.

Ohh, and sorry, the meter I'm using isn't a Fluke. I don't have an amp clamp for my Fluke, but I assure you, I do own one and I don't think that owning a high dollar tool makes you an instant expert. If you rely on the name brand of your tools to increase your cred, then I feel sorry for you.

But I am measuring a real Ranger, not just a vehicle that 'also has Variable Voltage.....'

 

[ctechbob]

If you're not familiar with the original post, that I can't even view anymore, here it is:

Variable Voltage System Stuff | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

And no, I harbor no ill will towards Frenchy, but blocking someone from responding to your post because they repeatedly question your incorrect views is NOT what adults do, and I'm calling him on it.

 

[awd.nv]

Huh, didn't know I needed to put the negative before the sensor. I use a capacitor based jump starter to help others, I need to charge it off my own battery so I do that when the engine is running. I have done that by going straight to the post, since I am consuming electricity, does it matter where the negative goes?

If curious what I use, it is an Autowit jump starter you can get on Amazon. Fully recommend it btw. Linked below.

Autowit on Amazon

 

[ctechbob]

Huh, didn't know I needed to put the negative before the sensor. I use a capacitor based jump starter to help others, I need to charge it off my own battery so I do that when the engine is running. I have done that by going straight to the post, since I am consuming electricity, does it matter where the negative goes?

If curious what I use, it is an Autowit jump starter you can get on Amazon. Fully recommend it btw. Linked below.

Autowit on Amazon

Yea, any time you're pulling current from or charging a battery on these systems with BMS monitors, the negative should go to the car side of the sensor (Or to the chassis/frame/block, etc. Just make sure it is 'after' the sensor and not 'before' (IE on the battery post))

It isn't the end of the world if you've just done it once or twice, the system will eventually get itself sorted out, but you wouldn't want to wire say a big nasty light bar direct to the terminals where you were pulling lots of current at all times. That would probably wig the system out pretty handily.

 

[OFC Ranger]

Why am I making a new post? Because @Frenchy put me on ignore and I can't reply to the original one. Very adult like. Sorry admin, but this has to be done.

Now.

Her motioned digging out a current clamp, well, some of us have those as well.

Guess what Frenchy, you are wrong. You've been wrong this whole time. Your post doesn't deserve a sticky, but you deserve to go back and study ohms law. Contrary what you believe, many people have the right idea whereas you're clutching at your pearls hanging on to something that just isn't so.

You do realize he can't see any of this since he has you on ignore? It is like you are having an argument with a ghost that is living rent free in your head.

 

[ctechbob]

You do realize he can't see any of it since he has you on ignore? It is like you are having an argument with a ghost that is living rent free in your head.

Yes, however all of the other participants in the thread will be able to see it, and I'm sure he noticed the tag in the first post and read it sneakily. I still get all of the tags from the post, I just can't see it, so I know damn well he did also.

Lol @OFC Ranger at your post.

 

[Dereku]

Considering the demographic that purchases our ranger, the knowledge and ingenuity I am used to on powerstroke.org does not exist here. Lots of new truck owners, less blue collar, lots of AARP members, and close to zero true work trucks.

But just take a breath, everyone on here is right and (they think) you are wrong. Doesn’t change the fact that you are or aren’t correct.

 

[YaBoiNewton]

And no, I harbor no ill will towards Frenchy, but blocking someone from responding to your post because they repeatedly question your incorrect views is NOT what adults do, and I'm calling him on it.

You roasted a guy that can't even answer at 1AM dude...I think adults just go to bed

I mean he blocked me too cause I got tired of him worming OME and Firestone into every discussion but damn chill out there is zero point in arguing with him on whatever his current fixation is

 

[ctechbob]

You roasted a guy that can't even answer at 1AM dude...I think adults just go to bed

I mean he blocked me too cause I got tired of him worming OME and Firestone into every discussion but damn chill out there is zero point in arguing with him on whatever his current fixation is

I work nights.

Also, its one thing to argue about what tire you think is best, but he presented information as though it was the gospel truth on how something works with our trucks and is wrong. He wanted it to be a sticky as if he were the subject matter expert, on an internet forum where people come for help and factual information. And then blocked someone that dared to challenge his views. So yes, I am being harsh.

 

[RangerBill]

Ok, watching the video I realized that the clamp was not fully seated, so here is corrected video #2 which is more in line with what I would expect. I'm leaving the first video up because, I was wrong in it and I'm not afraid of showing my mistake.

5-6 amps going into the battery after starting the truck about 30 seconds prior, about what you would expect. Current starts up around 20 amps and then drops as the alternator replenishes the battery from the cranking.



Still no running current going through that shunt.

Weird.

Ohh, and sorry, the meter I'm using isn't a Fluke. I don't have an amp clamp for my Fluke, but I assure you, I do own one and I don't think that owning a high dollar tool makes you an instant expert. If you rely on the name brand of your tools to increase your cred, then I feel sorry for you.

But I am measuring a real Ranger, not just a vehicle that 'also has Variable Voltage.....'

Could you keep the amp clamp on the negative lead and turn high current accessories on and off to monitor the current on the negative lead? That would demonstrate what you and I were saying in the other post a little more clearly.

Another way to demonstrate what your are saying is with the amp clamp on the negative battery lead and accessories applying a load, compare the amp reading with the engine running and then stopped. The meter reading will show the full accessory load amps with the engine not running, but only battery charging current with the engine running. Also the polarity of the reading will change during this test.

 

[VAMike]

You can't "win" an argument on the internet.

 

[RangerPNW]

You can't "win" an argument on the internet.

This...

 

[Colo_Ranger]

This was a fun thread to read while my kid naps. FWIW, I blocked Frenchy a long time ago. He doesn't have a Ranger anymore (not a requirement) and he's combative and adds no value. Read up on his opinions about level vs. lift.

You can't "win" an argument on the internet.

I disagree.

This...

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