Bucking/Surging Epidemic

Msfitoy

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And I trust your word over a guy I am actually paying to lie to me, aka the service garage.
Thanks me later after you fix it with the part...
 

ppfd

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Will do,
Any tips tricks on how to do this?
Scale of 1 to 4 wrenches how big of a pain in the ass is this
 

airline tech

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Well I made an attempt to hook up with Forscan and my Autel, I looked at all the PID's for the EGR system and hit a roadblock.

I want to be able to manually control the EGR Valve to manually open it, via PCM Output control.
By doing this you can check the system for proper operation, and mainly look at the DPFE sensor voltage rise with the opening of the EGR Valve.
Basically, do the same thing as a vacuum operated EGR test would do, but since this is a fully electronic control you have to adapt the procedure for testing. (Scan Tool - Bi-Directional Control)

PID: EGRVPDES
Forscan and my Autel will let me view the PID, but no bi-directional control of it. :explode:
You should be able to bring this PID up and open the EGR valve in incremental steps 0-52.
52 being full open 100%

Plus I cannot find the PID for the DPFE- With both Forscan and Autel :curse:
The DPFE PID is: DPFEGR (Voltage)

I grew accustomed to GM PIDS, as it was easy, no fuss - Hook up and do what I needed, Ford blocks a lot of PIDS it appears to 3rd party scan tools.
The problem is I don't know if it is Forscan / Scan Tool software that is blocking me or the PCM not allowing the 3rd party software to access it.

I am highly curious if Ford's IDES will do it.

I can see various EGR related PIDS, but not the specific PID's I want to view / control.
I plan on doing some more digging and giving it another try, I am wondering since I was using my Bluetooth OBD Link MX instead of my OBD Link EX (Cable) has a factor in it.
I find it odd that when I select PCM and then Control, the page is blank. Something is not configured correctly on my end, I think.
 

Msfitoy

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Will do,
Any tips tricks on how to do this?
Scale of 1 to 4 wrenches how big of a pain in the ass is this
It looks like it should be a 1 but more like a 3 due to location...get a needle nose plier on the ears of the spring clips and squeeze to release tension on the rubber hose...rotate about the hose and move it up and over the male hose barb...then the hose can be loosened while jiggling and pulled off...do this to both fittings...remove the single 10mm mount bolt and remove assembly...

Sounds straight forward but getting the pliers to loosen the spring clamps is a PITA!!!

Be careful when reinstalling with new assembly and not accidentally pop off the the spring hold-open plastic clips...they are designed to be pulled off once the hose is properly inserted back onto the male barbs and allow the spring clamps to pop into clamping position...and make sure you have the correct hose going to the correct barb...
 


airline tech

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It looks like it should be a 1 but more like a 3 due to location...get a needle nose plier on the ears of the spring clips and squeeze to release tension on the rubber hose...rotate about the hose and move it up and over the male hose barb...then the hose can be loosened while jiggling and pulled off...do this to both fittings...remove the single 10mm mount bolt and remove assembly...

Sounds straight forward but getting the pliers to loosen the spring clamps is a PITA!!!

Be careful when reinstalling with new assembly and not accidentally pop off the the spring hold-open plastic clips...they are designed to be pulled off once the hose is properly inserted back onto the male barbs and allow the spring clamps to pop into clamping position...and make sure you have the correct hose going to the correct barb...
Use this as a visual reference for hose routing

1685287916716.png
 

Msfitoy

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Use this as a visual reference for hose routing

1685287916716.png
It would be nice if this sensor appeared to be front right of the engine...of course, this is not the case and it's left rear near the firewall...as I mentioned, you can see it, you can reach it (barely) but you can't see and reach it simultaneously arrggg...so getting a good grip with plier is hit and miss...mostly miss...
 

airline tech

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It would be nice if this sensor appeared to be front right of the engine...of course, this is not the case and it's left rear near the firewall...as I mentioned, you can see it, you can reach it (barely) but you can't see and reach it simultaneously arrggg...so getting a good grip with plier is hit and miss...mostly miss...
The pic is rear looking forward - notice the flywheel- so it is showing it on left side of engine
 

Msfitoy

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The pic is rear looking forward - notice the flywheel- so it is showing it on left side of engine
Correct...I mentioned that so others can understand the orientation of this illustration...
 

Y2Dip84

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Is the #1 as noted on the diagram the DPFE sensor? That’s what I am to replace? Just the sensor?
 

Msfitoy

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Is the #1 as noted on the diagram the DPFE sensor? That’s what I am to replace? Just the sensor?
Yes, #1 is the DPFE sensor assembly...it costs around $80 from Levitown Ford where I got mine...it includes the metal bracket, two connecting hoses and new spring clamps...the sensor by itself is around $12 but you would need to reuse the hoses that may or may not be in good condition and you will also have to install replacement screw clamps...from your questions, I think the assembly (part # LB5Z-9J433-B) is better suited for you...it's plug and play...if you don't feel competent to do this swap you can find a friend to do this...or ask a shop to do it...should take no more than 20 minute...
 

Y2Dip84

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This is helpful, thanks. I just looked around in the engine bay and damn it’s a small space. I’m not so much afraid of messing it up and more so destroying my knuckles…
 

Msfitoy

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This is helpful, thanks. I just looked around in the engine bay and damn it’s a small space. I’m not so much afraid of messing it up and more so destroying my knuckles…
Unless you're 7 feet tall, you're going to need a step stool to stand on in order to reach this part...
 

Y2Dip84

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And forgive my ignorance but am I too assume these rings around the hose lines are to help fasten/tighten each line to male end?

IMG_2512.jpeg
 

Msfitoy

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And forgive my ignorance but am I too assume these rings around the hose lines are to help fasten/tighten each line to male end?

IMG_2512.jpeg
Becareful not to dislodge those plastic clips prior to installation...they hold the spring clamps open...once you've carefully slipped the hose over the correct male connection FULLY SEATED with the clamps past the barb, twist/pull on the ring and they will release the clamps...if you popped these off by accident, they can be put back on but not easily...
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